70 steering maintenance (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Oct 13, 2017
Threads
1
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6
Location
Colombo, Sri Lanka
Hey guys, I have a BJ 75 and need to know what maintenance is required on the steering shaft and joints. I’ve heard that you need to periodically grease the male and female ends of the shaft. Would like to know how best this can be done

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On my BJ73 there are greasing nipples on some of the joints. Give it a few pumps with the grease gun until etc squeezes out from the boot.
The actually tie rod ends are sealed. As long the boot is intact, those just need a regular check for wear. Important: Jack up the wheels from the ground to check in order to allow the knuckle to move.
The threads in the tie rods are prone to rust. The ends actually have a slit, where the rod / thread is clamped tight. Water gets into the rods trough those slots, causing the rust. Eventually the thread seize und you loose the ability to do proper wheel alignment. I applied some anti corrosion wax into the rod ( same as used for body cavities preservation) and will bandage the slit from outside using wax and a strip of cloth. I also put some wax between the clamp and the rod. These of course can only be done when removing the linkage joints anyway. Remember to do wheel alignment after having tempered with the tie rod ends.
This is not a regular maintenance step. Other than that: Check / tighten the bolts to spec regularly.
(Notes to the pics: 1. On the new joint, the greasing nipple is not installed yet. It goes in the hole in the boot. 2. On the in situ pic you see the boot of the tier rod end is torn. It's due for replacement).
Cheers
Ralf
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note: o
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On my BJ73 there are greasing nipples on some of the joints. Give it a few pumps with the grease gun until etc squeezes out from the boot.
The actually tie rod ends are sealed. As long the boot is intact, those just need a regular check for wear. Important: Jack up the wheels from the ground to check in order to allow the knuckle to move.
The threads in the tie rods are prone to rust. The ends actually have a slit, where the rod / thread is clamped tight. Water gets into the rods trough those slots, causing the rust. Eventually the thread seize und you loose the ability to do proper wheel alignment. I applied some anti corrosion wax into the rod ( same as used for body cavities preservation) and will bandage the slit from outside using wax and a strip of cloth. I also put some wax between the clamp and the rod. These of course can only be done when removing the linkage joints anyway. Remember to do wheel alignment after having tempered with the tie rod ends.
This is not a regular maintenance step. Other than that: Check / tighten the bolts to spec regularly.
(Notes to the pics: 1. On the new joint, the greasing nipple is not installed yet. It goes in the hole in the boot. 2. On the in situ pic you see the boot of the tier rod end is torn. It's due for replacement).
Cheers
Ralf
View attachment 2612744note: oView attachment 2612745
Thanks Ralph, that’s mighty useful. I have a clanking noise on full extended turn. Now I’m thinking the damper may be shot. Also was told the male and female parts of the steering shaft needs to be removed and periodically greased. Have you done this?
 
Thanks Ralph, that’s mighty useful. I have a clanking noise on full extended turn. Now I’m thinking the damper may be shot. Also was told the male and female parts of the steering shaft needs to be removed and periodically greased. Have you done this?
Apart from the greasing of outside nipples like you mentioned
 
You might want to check the freeplay and tighten the steering box if necessary. I think it should be 25mm at 12 oclock and make sure beforehand there is no slop in the tie rod ends, wheel bearings etc.
 
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I should have added be careful not to over tighten . Its best to have an assistant rock the steering with the front wheels off the ground.
 
Thanks Ralph, that’s mighty useful. I have a clanking noise on full extended turn. Now I’m thinking the damper may be shot. Also was told the male and female parts of the steering shaft needs to be removed and periodically greased. Have you done this?
Hi. Welcome.
Not sure wether your steering shaft is similar to mine. Mine is a single piece. Male and female thread are at the ends, with the slit and the clamps on. That is what I refer to: Prone to rust, thus take apart, treat with rust protection (wax or grease, threads and entire tube) and somewhat close those slits with a greasy or waxy bandage. That's what I did as I had to replace the tierod ends anyway. One was shot, giving a significant clong noise.
Remember wheel alignment. Should last a while then.

If there is a clong on full tilt, this might well be any of the ball joints in the linking. There are plenty.
Good luck
 
Hi. Welcome.
Not sure wether your steering shaft is similar to mine. Mine is a single piece. Male and female thread are at the ends, with the slit and the clamps on. That is what I refer to: Prone to rust, thus take apart, treat with rust protection (wax or grease, threads and entire tube) and somewhat close those slits with a greasy or waxy bandage. That's what I did as I had to replace the tierod ends anyway. One was shot, giving a significant clong noise.
Remember wheel alignment. Should last a while then.

If there is a clong on full tilt, this might well be any of the ball joints in the linking. There are plenty.
Good luck
👍🏽
 
On my BJ73 there are greasing nipples on some of the joints. Give it a few pumps with the grease gun until etc squeezes out from the boot.
The actually tie rod ends are sealed. As long the boot is intact, those just need a regular check for wear. Important: Jack up the wheels from the ground to check in order to allow the knuckle to move.
The threads in the tie rods are prone to rust. The ends actually have a slit, where the rod / thread is clamped tight. Water gets into the rods trough those slots, causing the rust. Eventually the thread seize und you loose the ability to do proper wheel alignment. I applied some anti corrosion wax into the rod ( same as used for body cavities preservation) and will bandage the slit from outside using wax and a strip of cloth. I also put some wax between the clamp and the rod. These of course can only be done when removing the linkage joints anyway. Remember to do wheel alignment after having tempered with the tie rod ends.
This is not a regular maintenance step. Other than that: Check / tighten the bolts to spec regularly.
(Notes to the pics: 1. On the new joint, the greasing nipple is not installed yet. It goes in the hole in the boot. 2. On the in situ pic you see the boot of the tier rod end is torn. It's due for replacement).
Cheers
Ralf
View attachment 2612744note: oView attachment 2612745

These joints can be rebuilt, there is two of them in the steering. They can also be adjusted and they are usually the joints that get slop in them first.

Have somebody move the steering wheel back and forth quick like while you look at the steering. You will find any slop quickly.

Cheers
 
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sometimes the parts 45473 , are a bit worn out , not badly , but enough to give a clank , when braking .
pls tear apart the joint and inspect .
change the parts if worn , they don't cost much .
or eventuali clean up and give a good regrease, best with grey grease , which is waterproof and heavy duty .
i had a similar issue
 
Wow! thanks guys, I think it should be an easy fix with all the above info/advice.
Thanks a mil. Will update once I've completed the inspection and repair.
Cheers and happy Cruising!
 

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