It gets towed around by this: 1969 FJ40, not stock...
I started this build in 2011 and to date, my wife and I have towed it well over 12,000 miles during trips to Alaska, Yukon Territory, Moab, etc. IT WORKS and has never let us down yet. Here's the build in a nutshell
I started with some very basic maintenance and found that the wheel bearings probably hadn't seen grease since it's overhaul in 81'. The bearings were completely done in. I replaced everything with new for about $100 if I recall. I also converted the trailer to SOA so it had at least a chance of towing behind the 40 correctly. Pretty simple stuff.
Knowing that I was going to do quite few mods to this and wanting to start "fresh" I towed the whole works in for blasting.
I had previously purchased these .50 ammo can racks from www.steelsoldiers.com and I intended to mount them on the M416 for storage.
They actually ended up fitting very nicely and the aluminum mounts are anodized. The cans are held in place with very nice cam buckles. Can't beat the military surplus stuff for quality. I've never had one of this .50 cans come loose.
These trailers were originally designed to float and contained spring loaded scuppers front and rear within the bed. Neat feature, but I wanted easier access to the interior, especially since I intended to mount an RTT. Some will cringe but the tailgate is very functional.
Tailgate cut out and scuppers plated/filled in. I also fixed some very minor rust pinholes in the bed. Overall, the metal on this trailer was in VERY good shape.
After creating mounts for a fuse panel, water pump and water tank, the frame was rolled outside for primer. The tough part is "hoping" you've done all your fab work before the paint goes on. I conscripted my wife for some light metal prep and paint work...
Back to some body fabrication on the tailgate... After cutting the gate out, the body looses a lot of its structural rigidity. I fabbed up an internal support which stiffened everything back up again.
The gate is held shut with the help of stainless Destaco latches, one on each side. Small rubber bumpers keep metal from scraping on metal.
I also knew that I wanted a solid "table" for my old school Coleman camp stove (white gas). In my previous life, I picked up a piece of nice 6061 1/8 aluminum which now serves at this quick release table. I welded tab onto the side of the trailer and the rear of the table is held down with wing nuts. Adjustable straps run to the outside edge and back into the trailer for support.
Then I moved to a different house and this project was put on hold for a bit. At least it hauled a lot of crap over.
Here's a shot of how the Coleman table sits on the side of the table
Got the tailgate painted and I used military lights from an M35A2 (Duece and a half) to make this thing legal. They fit the theme well and use LED bulbs.
Here's a shot of the 14 gallon water tank, it tucks up very well inside the frame and was the "best" fit I could find. It's poly and sits on nice rubber mounts so no uncomfortable chaffing.
Impressive, you have good fab skills. Why the fuse box? Didn't see anything needing power
besides the tail lights. Tail gates are good, smart mod to me.
Impressive, you have good fab skills. Why the fuse box? Didn't see anything needing power
besides the tail lights. Tail gates are good, smart mod to me.
The fuse panel provides power for the water pump and auxiliary lighting also. There's an Odyssey battery mounted up under the trailer, I'm still hunting down pics
I knew I wanted one after many camping trips of sleeping on the ground. On one of the last trips, it rained over 2" one day and of course everything was soaked and muddy.
My wife and I drove down to Bend, OR and picked up an RTT from Cascadia Vehicle Tents. I knew that I needed a rack for the tent so that it would sit over the trailer and I also wanted the rack to be about to go up and down. The CVT tent should be set at 6' off the ground but I wanted to be able to close everything up for road travel.
Here's the beginning of the RTT rack
Here is apparently where I quit taking pictures, presumably because I was trying to get this ready for Moab.
This is the RTT in the closed/road travel position. The rack is mounted into the trailer on four legs made out of round DOM tubing. I sourced up some plastic bushings which were pressed into the "ends" of the DOM tubing. The bushings enable the inner 6061 aluminum legs to ride smoothly as the tent goes up and down. You can also see the gas shocks (total of 350 lbs of lift) which mount between the vertical legs and the underside of the tent. The red knobs are quick release stainless pins. In order to provide support to the whole works, I also added stainless turnbuckles which tie the upper parts of the DOM tubing into the sides of the trailer.
I also was tired of always setting up camp in the dark so I installed 5 LED lights up underneath the rack and 4 LED's up under the trailer itself. They make a HUGE difference
I live up on Vancouver Island, I have a shortened FJ45 truck box I am going to make into a pop-up.
So I've been researching all kinds of methods, some complicated, some expensive, just trying to find
one that works!! Thanks, J
