- Year
- 1968
- Vehicle Model
- 40 Series
- Mileage
- 15000
- Color
- Blue
Selling my 1968 Fj40 factory soft top, original body, and paint. I have the original soft top doors the lower frames need to be replaced and a set of hard doors. The truck is far from perfect! I built it from a 30-year barnyard find to a daily driver in 42 days 2 years ago. I still drive it daily, and have made a few camping and wheeling trips where I have driven over 1,200 miles to wheel it and then drove it home with no issue! On the highway, it gets 13.5mpg running 65mph. Truck does 65-70 no problem. Steering is nice and smooth absolutely planted, no bump steer, does not hunt the road drives straight as an arrow! The ride is great, the brakes are fantastic will stop on a dime! Does great in wet weather, but you will get WET! Overall, fantastic drivability.
The Bad before the good.
• H42 is starting to get noisy and is time to replace. I will be replacing it before the sale with another H42. Depending on price I might provide an option to replace it with H55F.
• The current 2F head has a hairline crack above a coolant jacket. Last year I went to start the truck and motor locked broke a valve seat. I removed the head and got a fresh head that was rebuild and straight from the machine shop. Well someone F***ed up and missing the crack. The truck has never had an overheating issue before or after and has never overheated. I don’t have oil in my coolant or coolant in my oil. Again I can replace the head with a new machined one or get a good used one if the buyer is concerned. I drive the s*** out of this truck and I’m just waiting for a reason that will never come to LS swap it.
• The floor was gone when I purchased the truck. I used some 1/4 plate in the rear and a few scrap pieces in the front. I was in a hurry and it shows from the bottom because I did not trim all the rusty bit I needed a running, driving truck at the time. I have since purchased 2 front pans from Real Steel, Driver and Passenger, to replace at a later date.
• Wipers don’t work, but I have not even attempted to check into that, and the knob does nothing. I did find a seller on EBay that refurbished them. He said if I sent mine in as a core I could get a rebuild for $750. But again I’m not sure mine don’t work. I have a ton of rainx on there and have drove from Alabama to Florida in the rain and didn’t need wipers with the vertical window.
• Cluster lights up, I have volts, but nothing else. I order a Speedo cable from Cruiser Outfitters that lasted 3 months and broke. The truck has a new fuel sending unit. New temp sensor, as well as Oil. So, it could be the very old cluster. I have 2x extra full clusters but I have not dug to deep.
Now the GOOD!
Almost all Toyota parts have been purchased at Cruiser Matt’s Off-road in Winterpark.
Motor - 85 Fj60 2F Webber 38/38, desmog, long tube headers, TPI firecracker kit. Champion 3 row aluminum radiator. Red line Heavy duty Fan Clutch, 2” exhaust to flow master 40series. Diehard Red top battery.
Steering - TPI Saginaw conversion w/ larger pulley, FJ60 PS box ported for hydro assist. and PSC 1.75” bore 6” stroke ram assist.
Drivetrain
1985 Fj60 H42 4speed, 85 Fj60 38mm splitcase.
Front Axle- 85 Fj60 axle, Moto Farkles diff armor. C&T 12° pinion with 5.5° of caster. 4.11 gears w/locker. Marlin High steer kit and arms.
Rear Axle - 85 Fj60 axle w/ ruff stuff diff armor. 4.11 gears with locker, but not installed due to daily driving.
Drive shaft - Tom Woods - Rear Double Cardan custom shaft.
Brakes - FJ60 booster with FZJ80 M/C and new stainless lines. New stainless braided extended lines front and rear. 95 4runner front calipers, stock rear fj60 shoes and drums. Fj60 parking brake with Fj80 handle.
Suspension - SOA using Ruffstuff kit. Front Fj60 CCOT springs out boarded. Rear Fj60 CCOT springs. 3” CCOT shackle in the front, 4” CCOT shackle in the rear. Bilstein 5100 10” travel shocks front and rear.
Winch - Viking 9,500Lb, 125’ Masterpull synthetic line, Factor 55 thimble.
Lights - 2 options Headlight harness has been upgraded. And I have a set of New Toyota H4 glass headlights. Or old but still kicking Truck lite LED headlights.
Lightforce ditch lights that have some very decent output, all I have needed so far.
Fuel tank - New OEM FJ40 tank and sender.
Wheels and Tires - if you don’t like the wheels! LET’S swap them.
(5) Black Rhino Rift 17x9 -38 bead locks.
(5) Kenda Klever M/T 2 35x12.5r17.
Stereo- waterproof Ruff County Bluetooth sound bar good up to 75mph. Has a waterproof 12V power outlet and twin USB-C 5 fast charging ports mounted in the ashtray location.
Interior - 97-06 Jeep TJ seats, front and rear, are super comfortable. The front has a rip, but I have new OEM foam to repair the seat.
New OEM tail lights plus a very clever 3rd brake light made out of the original 1968 light that came on the truck. (Only had one).
Extras- Marks adapter for LS swap bell housing, throw-out bearing, and clutch arm. Sitting on the shelf.
Metal Tech Full Profile roll cage.
Real Steal front floor pans.
Price is $25,000 OBO. If you're looking for a sorted Fj40 that you're not scared to drive and wheel, this is it.
Time for the best thing.
Titled and insured - Clean Florida Title IN MY NAME! I spent over 2k and 6 months to get this truck titled. Multiple appointments to the DMV, multiple appointments to the regional DMV office for inspections. Due to the strict laws in Florida that were put in place 2 years ago. To combat the fraud and import issue. If you buy a classic without a title and try to register it in Florida, lol, good luck!
The Bad before the good.
• H42 is starting to get noisy and is time to replace. I will be replacing it before the sale with another H42. Depending on price I might provide an option to replace it with H55F.
• The current 2F head has a hairline crack above a coolant jacket. Last year I went to start the truck and motor locked broke a valve seat. I removed the head and got a fresh head that was rebuild and straight from the machine shop. Well someone F***ed up and missing the crack. The truck has never had an overheating issue before or after and has never overheated. I don’t have oil in my coolant or coolant in my oil. Again I can replace the head with a new machined one or get a good used one if the buyer is concerned. I drive the s*** out of this truck and I’m just waiting for a reason that will never come to LS swap it.
• The floor was gone when I purchased the truck. I used some 1/4 plate in the rear and a few scrap pieces in the front. I was in a hurry and it shows from the bottom because I did not trim all the rusty bit I needed a running, driving truck at the time. I have since purchased 2 front pans from Real Steel, Driver and Passenger, to replace at a later date.
• Wipers don’t work, but I have not even attempted to check into that, and the knob does nothing. I did find a seller on EBay that refurbished them. He said if I sent mine in as a core I could get a rebuild for $750. But again I’m not sure mine don’t work. I have a ton of rainx on there and have drove from Alabama to Florida in the rain and didn’t need wipers with the vertical window.
• Cluster lights up, I have volts, but nothing else. I order a Speedo cable from Cruiser Outfitters that lasted 3 months and broke. The truck has a new fuel sending unit. New temp sensor, as well as Oil. So, it could be the very old cluster. I have 2x extra full clusters but I have not dug to deep.
Now the GOOD!
Almost all Toyota parts have been purchased at Cruiser Matt’s Off-road in Winterpark.
Motor - 85 Fj60 2F Webber 38/38, desmog, long tube headers, TPI firecracker kit. Champion 3 row aluminum radiator. Red line Heavy duty Fan Clutch, 2” exhaust to flow master 40series. Diehard Red top battery.
Steering - TPI Saginaw conversion w/ larger pulley, FJ60 PS box ported for hydro assist. and PSC 1.75” bore 6” stroke ram assist.
Drivetrain
1985 Fj60 H42 4speed, 85 Fj60 38mm splitcase.
Front Axle- 85 Fj60 axle, Moto Farkles diff armor. C&T 12° pinion with 5.5° of caster. 4.11 gears w/locker. Marlin High steer kit and arms.
Rear Axle - 85 Fj60 axle w/ ruff stuff diff armor. 4.11 gears with locker, but not installed due to daily driving.
Drive shaft - Tom Woods - Rear Double Cardan custom shaft.
Brakes - FJ60 booster with FZJ80 M/C and new stainless lines. New stainless braided extended lines front and rear. 95 4runner front calipers, stock rear fj60 shoes and drums. Fj60 parking brake with Fj80 handle.
Suspension - SOA using Ruffstuff kit. Front Fj60 CCOT springs out boarded. Rear Fj60 CCOT springs. 3” CCOT shackle in the front, 4” CCOT shackle in the rear. Bilstein 5100 10” travel shocks front and rear.
Winch - Viking 9,500Lb, 125’ Masterpull synthetic line, Factor 55 thimble.
Lights - 2 options Headlight harness has been upgraded. And I have a set of New Toyota H4 glass headlights. Or old but still kicking Truck lite LED headlights.
Lightforce ditch lights that have some very decent output, all I have needed so far.
Fuel tank - New OEM FJ40 tank and sender.
Wheels and Tires - if you don’t like the wheels! LET’S swap them.
(5) Black Rhino Rift 17x9 -38 bead locks.
(5) Kenda Klever M/T 2 35x12.5r17.
Stereo- waterproof Ruff County Bluetooth sound bar good up to 75mph. Has a waterproof 12V power outlet and twin USB-C 5 fast charging ports mounted in the ashtray location.
Interior - 97-06 Jeep TJ seats, front and rear, are super comfortable. The front has a rip, but I have new OEM foam to repair the seat.
New OEM tail lights plus a very clever 3rd brake light made out of the original 1968 light that came on the truck. (Only had one).
Extras- Marks adapter for LS swap bell housing, throw-out bearing, and clutch arm. Sitting on the shelf.
Metal Tech Full Profile roll cage.
Real Steal front floor pans.
Price is $25,000 OBO. If you're looking for a sorted Fj40 that you're not scared to drive and wheel, this is it.
Time for the best thing.
Titled and insured - Clean Florida Title IN MY NAME! I spent over 2k and 6 months to get this truck titled. Multiple appointments to the DMV, multiple appointments to the regional DMV office for inspections. Due to the strict laws in Florida that were put in place 2 years ago. To combat the fraud and import issue. If you buy a classic without a title and try to register it in Florida, lol, good luck!
Last edited:
