62 4.8 Swap for Wheeling Rig

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FamilyCamper

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Planning my first swap and there's a local 5.3 /460le with everything included from a 2004 suburban for really cheap. It's in the truck so I can start it up. I've read a lot of the swap threads and I know the consensus is find the lowest mileage engine you can afford but am I crazy to just use this one as a starting point? My optimistic thought is even if it only runs for a year or 2 then I can upgrade after I have learned the process and have all the other bits and pieces for the swap ?? Let me know opinions and they don't have to be scientific 😂
 
how cheap is cheap? I got that same combo for 2,500 with 70k miles. I said the same thing you are saying except with a cam. Ah ill do the cam next year after the swap is done.... its been like 3 years and i still am on the stock cam and stock intake... even though i have a car intake sitting on my shelf in the garage. All i did before installing the motor and running it for the past 3 years was change the sparkplugs/wires and change the oil

If it was me, id spend a little more, get the lowest mileage gen3 motor you can possibly find. Do your cam/valvesprings/pushrods/timing chain while its sitting on the floor of your shop, and never worry about having to remove it in the future.


Oh and if i was to do it again, i would have gotten a L33 instead of a LM7 for the heads and flat top pistons
 
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500. Thank you for the advice. Good to know about those engine items also.
 
I think I'm going to pass on it as it's a 4wd and it has some oil leaks that definitely would need to be checked out. but still tempting for sure. I'd still have to work to tow the car away pull everything then dispose of the rest of the vehicle so it's a lot of work even though it's cheap
 
I bought a 5.3 with trans and transfer case from a 2004 Suburban with 130k miles earlier this year for $1500. No leaks, and really clean. This entire drivetrain is going into my 84 K20 Suburban. I would have a hard time passing on an entire truck for $500, even with those miles. So many back up parts for another 5.3, and I would part the rest of the truck to make back the $500.

Also, 2004 is a good year, as there are PCM programming files already on Github for that engine. I reprogrammed my PCM saving the expense of sending it out for reprogramming. I understand not everyone wants to part a truck out. And I agree, try to find the lowest mileage you can.
 
I agree with @dbbowen. I spent almost $2k with taxes on motor and tranny. No space for a whole vehicle part out situation, so definitely paid more than some would have.

Wish I had rebuilt the tranny before I put it in (tranny was $500, which is what the shop near me charges for a core, so honestly could have skipped the searching and trailer rental and just bought a rebuilt transmission from them). 4l60s needing a rebuild is far from rare anyway.

Unless you are very confident in the condition and history of the motor, definitely would recommend replacing all of the wear items while it’s on the floor in addition to what dbbowen listed. Idlers, belts iac, tps, knock sensors, intake gaskets, thermostat, water pump, etc. maybe even the PS pump and ac compressor if theyre questionable. Some people run them as is, but for an additional ~$500 most of those items won’t need to be thought about for another 20 years. I skipped a few and have been chasing codes and noises for a year. Would rather be driving it. My full list of parts I replaced on my LM7 is linked in my build thread if you’re interested in the total cost.

Happy hunting.
 
I agree with @dbbowen. I spent almost $2k with taxes on motor and tranny. No space for a whole vehicle part out situation, so definitely paid more than some would have.

Wish I had rebuilt the tranny before I put it in (tranny was $500, which is what the shop near me charges for a core, so honestly could have skipped the searching and trailer rental and just bought a rebuilt transmission from them). 4l60s needing a rebuild is far from rare anyway.

Unless you are very confident in the condition and history of the motor, definitely would recommend replacing all of the wear items while it’s on the floor in addition to what dbbowen listed. Idlers, belts iac, tps, knock sensors, intake gaskets, thermostat, water pump, etc. maybe even the PS pump and ac compressor if theyre questionable. Some people run them as is, but for an additional ~$500 most of those items won’t need to be thought about for another 20 years. I skipped a few and have been chasing codes and noises for a year. Would rather be driving it. My full list of parts I replaced on my LM7 is linked in my build thread if you’re interested in the total cost.

Happy hunting.
yeah i agree. I got really lucky on mine and only had to replace the idlers. Looking back i probably should have replaced the whole accessory drive with new stuff to never have to mess with it again. It all comes off so easy when its on the floor of the garage. Its also the easiest time to swap over to the car accessory drive so you can run the car intake and have a much better looking engine bay with the low mount alternator
 
Great information all thanks so much.
 
I bought a 5.3 with trans and transfer case from a 2004 Suburban with 130k miles earlier this year for $1500. No leaks, and really clean. This entire drivetrain is going into my 84 K20 Suburban. I would have a hard time passing on an entire truck for $500, even with those miles. So many back up parts for another 5.3, and I would part the rest of the truck to make back the $500.

Also, 2004 is a good year, as there are PCM programming files already on Github for that engine. I reprogrammed my PCM saving the expense of sending it out for reprogramming. I understand not everyone wants to part a truck out. And I agree, try to find the lowest mileage you can.
If it's still around in a few weeks this still may happen. Need to finish some running projects and have some time to deal with all the logistics to get it/get rid the rest and such. I like the idea of having spare parts/motor to learn on for cheap.
 
Thanks for all the advice with this. Just picked up at 4.8 w 4l60e 157k for under a grand. Super excited for this step closer to the 62 running! Big plus is this truck drives around as is now. Next step is to pull the drivetrain from the 62.

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that's a good deal. if you want more power later you'll be able to simply drop in a gen 3 5.3 or 6.0
your next step before your tear the 62 apart should be to call me and get a FJ62 Gen3 4l60 swap bundle. :)
 
that's a good deal. if you want more power later you'll be able to simply drop in a gen 3 5.3 or 6.0
your next step before your tear the 62 apart should be to call me and get a FJ62 Gen3 4l60 swap bundle. :)
Ill definitely be hitting you up. Trying to do this on a budget but also happy to use products like yours that make the process so much easier.
 
Ill definitely be hitting you up. Trying to do this on a budget but also happy to use products like yours that make the process so much easier.

Give me a call.. we do bundle discounts. :)
 
Progress is being made. Bringing the 62 to the house tomorrow and going to keep going with pulling drivetrains. Was able to make some money back so far selling the bed, seats, and hitch.

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