60K, what should I change? (1 Viewer)

[AnyMal]

Oh, and do not trust the temp fill level procedure on the 8 spd AE80F.
It does not work. Trust me on that one.

Just measure and refill. Let me know if you want a pic of the best line to pull.
Its very easy.

 

[2021 LC200]

I am interested on how to do the procedure on the 8spd AE80F. Which line to pull etc.

 

[NYC570]

At 60 i did everything but coolant.

I would do all fluids outside of that.

brake
power steering
diffs
transfer case
transmission
of course, AHC will should been done at least twice by that point and i would do change #3.

Why would you need to do the AHC fluid twice in 60k miles?

 

[a200]

I do tow but it’s not what I’d consider often or “severe duty” with those low trailer/payload weights. The trailer most commonly found behind it is a 600lb aluminum motorcycle trailer with usually only 250-300lbs of bike on it, hardly a workout for the truck at sub 1000lbs. I will give you the Texas heat aspect and the fact that I’m usually doing 70-80mph on the highway for hours at a time.

I will go ahead and do it all, but I’ll admit I’m a little worried about the tranny fluid swap. Hopefully the horror stories you hear about are only those that mess with the screen.

I'm going to go against the flow around here and say that frequent drain and fills are a safer option for most of us. I have been maintaining an older 5 speed 750 but it still uses WS. I do it one or 2 times a year when I do my oil changes. It is easy and doing it frequently keeps it fresh in my mind, so less mistakes. I tow a lot and my fluid always looks great. I made my own pump and flared the end so it just hangs from the fill port.

Would someone mind posting/ or pointing to the relevant factory service manual pages for the 6spd transmission service?

 

[Fisher23]

Based on your stated usage, (towing, mostly) and the assumption that (a) Texas is hot, and (b) you probably tow more than a few miles each time, I would follow the "severe" maintenance schedule. You'd be surprised how hot the transmission can get when towing, if you're not monitoring it with an OBD reader.

FWIW at 60k I did:

• Front and rear diff fluid swap (75W-85 or 75W-90)
• Transfer case fluid swap (75W-90 is ok, I've used Ravenol 75W MTF w/o issue, and I think Lucas or Redline or someone makes a 75W LF option now too)
• Full 12+ quart A/T fluid exchange (ATF WS, no need to drop the pan and touch the filter)
• Brake fluid isn't a bad idea, usually good to do every 2-3 years as it's hygroscopic so it's more about time than mileage.

Obviously add a normal oil change and don't forget about greasing the driveshaft. Check the manual and adjust as you see fit but the diffs and transfer case should be swapped more often than 60k if you tow (severe duty).

I like this answer the best.

BUT I would test the brake fluid and only change it if needed.

AND I would crack the KDSS valve screws one turn open and then close them and put some water proof green grease on them.

AND Oil change is likely due also.

 

[Tex68w]

I like this answer the best.

BUT I would test the brake fluid and only change it if needed.

AND I would crack the KDSS valve screws one turn open and then close them and put some water proof green grease on them.

AND Oil change is likely due also.

KDSS valves have been opened multiple times in the past 18 months and have the grease. I'll save the brake fluid for 75-80K miles when I likely change pads and possibly rotors. Oil change is happening tomorrow along with the drive shafts getting some grease while I am under there installing the skid plates.

 

[AnyMal]

Why would you need to do the AHC fluid twice in 60k miles?

Every 20k for me, that s*** gets filthy quick. So 60 should be your third change.
My shock rams were flawless on inspection at 73k.

 

[AnyMal]

I am interested on how to do the procedure on the 8spd AE80F. Which line to pull etc.

This guy right here. Cooler outlet, the lower of the two. It will make sure theres nothing old left in there.
Easy peasy reach from under the truck. Slip the clamp off and it will pump from cold start unless its literally freezing outside.
Rig up a funnel tied to the open hood into the trans fill port and let it pump out, stop the engine, fill back how much you measured into your drain container, repeat.
Just make sure your tubing isnt touching the exhaust pipe on its way down under the chassis through the engine bay.
I did a total of 12 qts if i recall?

 

[Fisher23]

And you going to tell him the ATF heat degradation reset: you speak of ?

 

[AnyMal]

And you going to tell him the ATF heat degradation reset: you speak of ?

You are right! sorry.

Get into techstream when you are done and do that timer reset.

 

[1Maverick]

It’s a 2020.

Damn Tex, 60k already! Where do you live, Texas?

 

[Tex68w]

Damn Tex, 60k already! Where do you live, Texas?

Lot's of hill country and south Texas trips for hunting, four hours each direction adds up quick on top of three-six cross country trips every year.

 

[NYC570]

Every 20k for me, that s*** gets filthy quick. So 60 should be your third change.
My shock rams were flawless on inspection at 73k.

When I did mine at 60k, it looked fairly new, just a little bit darker than the new one. 20k intervals is over doing it, even by the scheduled maintenance.

 

[Katkon]

May be unhelpful but I've always just done what the manual suggested. My dealer has never tried to upsell me anything - also just affirming that all I need to do is follow Toyota's maintenance schedule.

 

[AnyMal]

When I did mine at 60k, it looked fairly new, just a little bit darker than the new one. 20k intervals is over doing it, even by the scheduled maintenance.

Intertesting.
Do you use easy access or high mode often? Dry climate? Curious.
I have filled and drained on the spot to bleed and noticed color change just from being in the system one cycle.

Only caveat with the manual is all the "extreme" use jargon. So, i guess i play it safe with most things. Including diffs.

 

[AnyMal]

Intertesting.
Do you use easy access or high mode often? Dry climate? Curious.
I have filled and drained on the spot to bleed and noticed color change just from being in the system one cycle.

Only caveat with the manual is all the "extreme" use jargon. So, i guess i play it safe with most things. Including diffs.

Also, im not sure if time degradation counts here either? 20k might be a couple years for some.

Anyone with knowledge in hydraulics can chime in? I thing most things with hydraulics need fluid to be replaced regularly right?
Like heavy machinery etc?

 

[studawg]

PCV valve!

And Im pretty sure the owners manual doesn't even mention it

 

[Trukk]

I plan to keep my Cruiser till it falls apart. With that in mind I did Diffs, T-Case, Trans at 30k. I will do it again at 60k. Also at 60 I will add in Brake Fluid, PS, and Coolant.

Its probably overkill, but an extra couple hundred bucks every 30k miles to keep the drive train poppin is worth it just from piece of mind perspective.

NOTE: I do about 12k/yr.

 

[NYC570]

Intertesting.
Do you use easy access or high mode often? Dry climate? Curious.
I have filled and drained on the spot to bleed and noticed color change just from being in the system one cycle.

Only caveat with the manual is all the "extreme" use jargon. So, i guess i play it safe with most things. Including diffs.

I don't use easy access, I do it manually and do it every day a few times per day (lower and raise it). I'm in NY so it isn't a dry climate. I did the fluid change at 60k as the manual calls for, at about 6 years. Fluid came out as I described. Probably could've gone longer.

 

[AnyMal]

I do it manually and do it every day a few times per day (lower and raise it).

Its ok, we all LX parking lot pimp. Guilty! lol