60 won't start (1 Viewer)

[marcfj60]

I was so excited to drive my truck to work this morning (instead of riding the bus) because I was going to stop by Dunkin' Donuts to get some to take to work because that's the ritual when it's your birthday. I was quite pissed when the truck wouldn't start, partially because it wouldn't start but mostly because now I don't get my birthday donuts.

I'm thinking it's the starter. I turned the key and heard nothing. I tried to jump it with Danise's car and got the same symptom. I do notice a draw in the electrical system. The charge gauge drops when I go from ON to START. Also, the 'CHARGE' light dims when I go to START. But I get nothing. No click. No slow motor sounds.

I found the starter rebuild thread in the 60/62 section. I thought I'd do that but figured I see if anyone has any other suggestions. I'll probably call Dan, get the parts and then doublecheck that I am indeed getting volts at the trigger wire when the key is turned. It could easily be an issue with the ignition switch contacts or the clutch pedal switch. I'll double-check my ground connections as well but the starter grounds through its housing to the motor/transmission, right?

Marc

 

[pappy]

I always start simple. Check the cables at both ends. Remove them, clean them, put them back on. How much voltage at the meter with the key on?

 

[Cruisergreg]

I always start simple. Check the cables at both ends. Remove them, clean them, put them back on. How much voltage at the meter with the key on?

Jon's right - you can get a situation where there is just enough juice getting through a corroded connection to see a draw, but not enough to crank. Dirty connections have given me what you described on 2 different cruisers. If it's not them start looking at fusible links, etc.

A 60 doesn't have a cluthc switch, or at least mine doesn't.

 

[marcfj60]

I always start simple. Check the cables at both ends. Remove them, clean them, put them back on. How much voltage at the meter with the key on?

I've learned not to trust the meter in the dash much. When the truck is running, the meter reads ~12.5. But if I put a voltmeter on the back of the alternator, I get 14.5 and across the battery while it's running I generally get about 14 V. When I turned the truck on this morning the meter was reading close to 12, and when I would turn the key to 'START', it would dropd

I didn't have time to actually check the alternator and battery this morning. I don't have an amp meter so I can't check the current draw when the key is turned to start. I'll start simple but I think I'll go buy the solenoid parts just in case all the simple stuff comes up normal.

 

[frogger]

I just had this problem with mine, it was the solenoid.
I could turn the key but no sound not even a click- posts on the battery and the cables were clean and in good shape. I gave the starter a good smack with a 1" dowel rod and it started... I promptly drove it home and replaced the starter- it's been running fine for the last month.

 

[marcfj60]

I did a little more diagnostic work.

I attempted to jump from the big wire (positive) to the trigger wire. I got nothing. I still have 12.7V across battery. With the positive lead from a multimeter and the negative lead secured to the ground cable going to the battery, I only got 10.5V when the key was turned to START. If I took the trigger wire off the starter and performed the same test, 12.4V.

So I took the starter off and removed the solenoid cover. Things don't look too good in there. There's obvious water intrusion and corrosion. The contacts are worn a bit. The big thing I saw was a fair amount of surface corrosion on the plunger. I put the cover back on and hooked the starter up to my battery. I got it to work a few times before the solenoid stopped firing again.

I took the starter apart again, this time taking the motor apart as well. The sucker is just plain worn out. The brushes to the motor still have some travel but one of them only has ~1mm of travel left. Everything is covered in a combination of corrosion, dirt and carbon? dust. The small bearing on the end of the rotor is not a sealed unit and it's got obvious dirt intrusion. The larger one at the other end spins freely. I'm thinking I might just clean it up real well, including some Scotch Brite on the solenoid plunger, and see if I can get it to actuate more reliably. Any ideas if there's a safe grease to put on the plunger to help it slide inside the armature more easily?

I don't know what the test procedures or specifications are for verifying the motor windings and solenoid armature are within their specifications. I would assume it's just a resistance/continuity check with a range for what's considered good.

I probably won't be able to get to it until Sunday afternoon so the pile of parts will sit on my rear seat for a few days.

 

[pappy]

Marc,

From the sound of things I would stop right now and visit Dan. Remans are not that expensive and it doesn't sound like the work involved to repair yours is worth the effort.

Jon

 

[marcfj60]

Marc,

From the sound of things I would stop right now and visit Dan. Remans are not that expensive and it doesn't sound like the work involved to repair yours is worth the effort.

Jon

Agreed. Spending $40 for the solenoid rebuild wont do much for a worn motor, brushes and bearings that may not have much life left. I think I'll probably do a thorough cleaning first and reassemble to see if it works any better. Dan's has a message to price a reman as well.

Marc

 

[trucruiser]

Clean it out real good with some brake cleaner, and re-assemble. it should work until you get your other one in.

 

[pappy]

Clean it out real good with some brake cleaner, and re-assemble. it should work until you get your other one in.

Well, he needs to pull it to clean it. Dan stocks reman LC starters and he is just up the street. So ... pulling, cleaning, reinstalling, buying replacement, pulling, reinstalling ... just doesn't make sense. In the time it would take to clean it he could have the new one in hand.

Just my .02.

 

[trucruiser]

Well, he needs to pull it to clean it. Dan stocks reman LC starters and he is just up the street. So ... pulling, cleaning, reinstalling, buying replacement, pulling, reinstalling ... just doesn't make sense. In the time it would take to clean it he could have the new one in hand.

Just my .02.

Maybe he cant afford to get the reman just yet.

 

[Cruisergreg]

Maybe he cant afford to get the reman just yet.

Nah, Marc's got plenty of cash - reminds us of it all the time

 

[marcfj60]

Nah, Marc's got plenty of cash - reminds us of it all the time

Having money doesn't necessarily mean you're willing to spend it. I am leaning towards Jon's advice though. I'll put it back together so that I can get credited for the core return when I go buy the reman at AMTOY. Technically, I don't have to return the core the same day I buy the 'new' one so that gives me a little time to get it back together. Price is about ~$120 and Dan has 2 in stock. I'm hoping to take some pictures of the insides to show you what I'm working with. We'll see if I get around to it.

 

[marcfj60]

Well, he needs to pull it to clean it. Dan stocks reman LC starters and he is just up the street. So ... pulling, cleaning, reinstalling, buying replacement, pulling, reinstalling ... just doesn't make sense. In the time it would take to clean it he could have the new one in hand.

Just my .02.

It's already pulled and disassembled. But there still would be extra work in cleaning and reinstalling now and then removing later to put a new one in instead of just getting a new one now and being done with it.

 

[cruiser-60]

Start Issues

Hey Marc,

I'm having the same issue with my 60. I have to click the key 3-4 times to start my 60.

Hope your repair goes well.

Any one use a Mean Green starter worth the 300 bills?

James

 

[SteveLCetc]

Hey Marc,

I'm having the same issue with my 60. I have to click the key 3-4 times to start my 60.

Hope your repair goes well.

Any one use a Mean Green starter worth the 300 bills?

James

I've always had the best luck with factory stuff from Dan at American Toyota in Albuquerque.