60 Won't idle until warm (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 17, 2017
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Location
Anderson, SC
Hi all, brand new to the Land Cruiser game.
I recently purchased a 1987 FJ60 with 200k miles. I was told a previous owner had messed around with the fuel system (new tank, possibly lines, etc.) I didn't get any quality information from the guy I bought it from. The truck will start with some starter fluid and holding the choke, but won't hold an idle until about 3 min of giving it gas, holding RPMs above 2k.

Where am I having problems?

1911664
 
What’s w/ the gaping open air cleaner cover? How long are you leaving the choke on? And is this your first carbureted vehicle?
 
What’s w/ the gaping open air cleaner cover? How long are you leaving the choke on? And is this your first carbureted vehicle?

Just an under the hood pic.
Around 30 seconds or until it gets started up and I can give it some revs.
I have had one before, but admittedly I never had to mess with it. I'm 24 and have only really gotten interested in auto mechanics in the last few years. I know the basics, but I'm looking to learn as much as possible.
 
A carburated engine needs more than a few seconds.
At least 5 mins or more if your in a cold area.
 
I live in South Carolina. When I first went to look at the vehicle in South Florida it did this in 80-degree weather, So, it's definitely not the climate.
 
Hmmm... sounds like we will need pics of carb, all vacuum lines, and at least one profile pic( of the car)... could be vac leak, incorrectly routed hoses, incorrect base timing, maladjusted carb, or plugged up ports on carb. If it’s been “desmogged “ then I highly recommend using the approved de smog diagram found in this forum titled “ my de smog thread” et al...and using forum approved hose and wire routing, timing and carb specs, using new vac tubing and a refreshed carb. If it is still stock, verify all the hoses and wiring is correct, base timing set to bb on flywheel, no vacuum leaks exist, then look hard at carb...to check for vacuum leaks, put a welding glove on, some face pro, fire up car without air cleaner on and choke it out by covering the air horn with your gloved hand. It should just die. Anything else means it sucking air from someplace it’s not supposed to be...
 
Yep^^^^

Get a vacuum gauge and let us know what you find.
 
PCV hose in photo one of you holding it... should not be hanging free. That’s a big leak right there. Hose goes to a valve called the positive crankcase valve. It should be seated in the J pipe that juts out of the side cover (passenger side) which is in the block, just a bit behind (toward the firewall) from the distributor.
 
Pipe that sticks out of the air cleaner cover toward the nose of the truck should be capped or plugged. You can go red neck and stuff a wine cork in it if you any around. Same goes for the other one from the base of the air cleaner too.
 
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Missing the hold down nut for the carb screw that runs through the air cleaner cover too. That’s another leak.
My dear new cruiser owner.... that truck needs some TLC for sure.
Lots of badly routed hoses for the vacuum system and I see some swollen coolant hoses too in dire need.
How brand new are you to this truck? One week! Ha! Just think, in a year it will probably look like an entirely different engine once you freshen everything up.
 
I vote for checking for vacuum leaks. Get a vacuum gauge. 90% of the hard idling threads started here on mud end up being some vacuum pipe left gaping open or some hose missing.
Chuckling. Check out the pics above. Oof! It really is truly amazing that our trucks WILL run regardless of how sad the vacuum routing is put together.
 
Charcoal canister hoses are funked up, routed weird.
Distributor vent hose looks like it’s going up to the air cleaner too...
lots of weird stuff here.
I’d suggest you find a local club or member and offer beer and pizza for a once over as soon as possible.
 
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