Build $500 1992 FJ80 Rebuild

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That stinks about the sludge. Always makes me nervous a chunk will break off and clog a oil passage. Looks like it's coming along. Wheels look nice

Thanks. Wheels are a simple swap from a first gen Sequoia. The rears have an old 10mm spacer leftover from the old wheels. Fronts clear but could use a spacer to sit more "flush" with the fenders.

As for the sludge, he cleaned up what he could. Maybe down the road we can get the head out & hot-tanked.

Looking good! Small progress, did you stick with OEM shocks or go to something new?

We opted for KYB Monomax shocks. They're a slightly longer monotube design, so a little more expensive than OEM. Perfect for stock height springs and 33s, IMO. We'll probably upgrade to OME or Bilstein when it we decide to lift it.

Not much else got done yesterday. So we'll probably tackle bleeding the brakes after work today or tomorrow.

Unfortunately since Arkansas changed antique car eligibility from 25 to 45 years and plates can't be transferred between owners, we couldn't reapply for an antique plate for the Land Cruiser. It's a hideous design anyway, IMO. So we opted for the State Parks themed plate. Here is the style:

I sent the driver's seatbelt to Safety Restore for rewebbing, so we're hoping that will be back & ready for install by next week. Corner light housings cleared customs (from China) on Friday, so those will probably arrive around the same time. I have one more list of small things to order: updated EFI relay, a replacement power window switch, and wiper blades. Currently waiting to see if I need to add anything else to that list.

Here's what is left:

Bleed brakes
Bend passenger front bumper bracket for clearance
Calibrate TPS
Install new charcoal canister
Check passenger front wheel bearing & hub assembly - as you can see in the pic above, that one has been leaking axle grease. If it's not too bad, we'll rebuild both front axles after the end of the month
Get spare tire mounted
Finish reinstalling interior plastics
Install passenger visor
Install driver seatbelt
Install hood release cable
Install new corner light housings
Install new license plate
Get it aligned
Vacuum & wash
Test drive!

I'm also reading up on clearing out the sunroof drains. It's supposed to stay dry here for the next week or so, so I want to take advantage of that. As far as we know, the sunroof motor doesn't work. So it looks like we need to drop the headliner to reach the gears to manually open/close the sunroof. That should also give me room to get the replacement sunvisor installed & wired up.

 

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Two steps forward and one step back, as they say. We got a lot done but had one setback this weekend.

To recap:

We tackled the front passenger wheel bearing after work one day. It seemed loose and would clunk when pushing against the wheel. Husband got it apart and found that the last person to work on it had reassembled the washer & plates in the wrong order. That would've been a fun failure down the road. The bearing looked fairly new, so he repacked it with clean axle grease and reassembled everything in the correct order. It felt much better afterward - no slop or clunks.

We also spent two evenings bleeding the brakes after getting the new master cylinder on. It went from a dry system to clean fluid coming out of all four corners with a nice pedal feel.

The driver seat belt came back from Safety Restore and looks great! The gray color they chose for the webbing is very close to OEM. So that went right back in. The clear corner lights also arrived but have yet to be installed. We'll have to be careful trying to bend the front of the passenger fender back into place for proper fitment. Fortunately the front bumper bracket on that side was easily pushed back into place for tire clearance.

A quick trip to the local hardware store got us replacements for the missing door arm rest bolts. The wood screws that were previously there were tossed. Then the rest of the interior plastic panels were reinstalled.

We checked the transmission fluid after shifting through the gears & idling in neutral. The fluid looked clean but was about 2 quarts low, so we topped it off. It looks like there's a small leak coming from a sensor in the side of the transmission - I'll do some searching this afternoon to see what I can find out about it.

After checking the front & rear diff fluid levels and making sure the brakes work in the driveway, it was time for a test drive up & down the street. Other than a few exhaust leaks after the manifold, and a rattling heat shield somewhere, the engine sounded good & brakes worked great. The transmission was still cold, so it was a bit slow & harsh when shifting. That was enhanced by the amount of drivetrain movement between accel/decel & shifting, so likely the engine & transmission mounts need replacement.



We then opted to drive it around the neighborhood next. And it did fairly well until we got to the back of the neighborhood where we noticed a hint of brake smell. So we decided to turn back and by the next stop the front brakes had started to smoke. They progressively got worse and by the time we pulled into our driveway the fronts were smoking heavily and the rears had started to smoke as well. Morale was low as it starting getting dark while we let the brakes cool. I noticed brake fluid dripping from the back of the new master cylinder too. So we feared it had ruptured a seal & needed replacement. We decided to call it a night either way.

Sunday rolled around and a friend stopped by to help put a new set of eyes on things. After reading up on this issue, we determined the booster was putting too much "preload" on the master cylinder and causing the brakes to drag. The guys took turns trying to adjust the booster rod to sit further back, but kept having issues with the booster rod making contact with the back of the brake pedal and still sticking out too far. So they decided to remove the booster & compare it to the old one. Sure enough, the rod ended up being just under 1" longer on the new booster. So it looks like the aftermarket booster we got is for an FZJ80. Neat.

I've already order the 13/16" booster spacer from City Racer and am hoping that will resolve our brake issue.

Updated list of things left to do:

Bleed brakes
Bend passenger front bumper bracket for clearance
Calibrate TPS
Install new charcoal canister
Check passenger front wheel bearing & hub assembly
Get spare tire mounted
Finish reinstalling interior plastics
Install passenger visor
Install driver seatbelt
Install hood release cable
Install new corner light housings
Install new license plate
Get it aligned
Vacuum & wash
Test drive
Install windshield wipers
Install replacement window switches
Swap in updated EFI relay
Order brake booster spacer
Order front brake pads?
Order engine & transmission mounts

 

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Big update so it's a long post:

While we waited on the brake booster spacer to be delivered, husband felt motivated to tend to the passenger fender damage. We may get it fixed properly down the road - that whole front area (bumper, grill, & headlights) is slightly tweaked. Whether that was from the impact of the sign the previous owner hit or something else, we're not sure. Either way, he was able to bend the corner light opening to a better shape and get a coat of paint on the exposed metal & surface rust. It's far from perfect, but will do until we can cover it up with an ARB bumper.

He also got the new hood release cable installed. The hood previously could be opened by reaching up from behind the grill and pulling the frayed remains of the old cable. But we realized after the initial test drive how dangerous that would be if there had been a fire or other issue. That and some white lithium grease had the hood latch catching/releasing smoothly.

New front & rear wipers & replacement rear window switches were installed. We tested the new sprayers, but it appears the front pump is dead. The reservoir also seems to be leaking. Rear sprayer needs a new feed line & leaked fluid into the interior.

The updated EFI relay really made a difference in starting. It used to take several seconds of turning over before catching. Now it takes a few revolutions - so I've added the "opening circuit" relay near the driver dead pedal to the list for replacement. We're hanging onto the originals as backups in case of failure.

The booster spacer from City Racer arrived on Saturday and went right in. It fixed the spacing issue with the booster actuator rod perfectly. We did a few quick test stops back & forth in the driveway before taking it back around the neighborhood. The brake pedal is a bit spongy now, but it stops as it should. The front rotors definitely feel warped though. So new front rotors & pads will be in order along with bleeding the burnt brake fluid out.

We also checked for codes via the OBD1 paperclip trick. It reported two codes: 28 & 51. Code 28 is for the rear O2 sensor - someone removed the cats and welded in pipe long before we got this. So that's a moot point. Code 51 can be triggered by 3 potential issues:

1. AC switch ON during diagnosis (oops, guilty)
2. Closed throttle position switch during diagnosis --> TPS?
3. Park/Neutral position switch: not in Park or Neutral during diagnosis - N/A

We realized after the fact that the A/C switch was depressed during diagnosis. So we'll make sure that is off when retesting it.

After the above was done, it was time to put some miles on it and see how it does at various speeds & conditions. The high on Saturday was 86*, so it was a good time to put it to the test. We drove it to the gas station and put some fuel in it, then took it down some curvy sections to a manual carwash before heading back home. It got up to 60mph and felt pretty good. It even pulled up some long steep inclines at 55mph and shifted as it should.

Yesterday morning we took advantage of the cooler temps and took it for a drive out to the nearby lake. This drive meant taking the highway to some curvy backroads. The Land Cruiser took it all in step and we even got it up to 70mph on one section. We were also able to test the center diff lock and low range on a gravel pull off at the lake. The center diff lock engages, although it took a few tries and forward motion to unlock it. I'm not sure if that's by design or age/wear. Low range works as well.

The transmission still shifts hard during the 1-2 shift at slow speeds and the worn mounts make sure you feel/hear it. The exhaust also has a few leaks downstream & probably a broken bracket or two: one section sounds like it is rubbing the frame. So we've got some things to address in the meantime as we put more miles on it. The goal is to have 100+ miles on it before this weekend. Our Jeep's original alternator finally failed after 130K miles & several water crossings. So husband may be taking the Land Cruiser out to the family property this weekend to prep for the Halloween camping party at the end of the month.

The running list:

Calibrate (replace?) TPS
Install new charcoal canister
Get spare tire mounted
Install passenger visor
Adjust transmission kickdown cable
Vacuum
Install hood release cable
Install new corner light housings
Wash
Install windshield wipers
Install replacement window switches
Swap in updated EFI relay

Down the road:
Get it aligned
Order front brake pads & rotors
Order engine & transmission mounts
Order Marlin Crawler front tie rod kit
Order fuel pump/circuit opening relay
Order new front & rear u-joints

 

[Godwin]

The running list:

Calibrate (replace?) TPS

If still available purchase a new TPS because 3FE parts are dropping out of Toyota inventory and some important ones have become NLA.

 

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If still available purchase a new TPS because 3FE parts are dropping out of Toyota inventory and some important ones have become NLA.

Partsouq shows it as NLA. But Toyota Parts Deal & Serra Toyota still show it in stock. I may send a quick message to either to see if they actually have it in inventory. Otherwise, I'll probably pick up the WVE-branded version on RockAuto. I have one of their TPS in our 300ZX and it's been solid.

Mini update:

Husband surprised me with a short drive during lunch break. He disconnected the transmission kickdown cable, lubricated it with Triflow, and adjusted it this morning. It is shifting a lot more smoothly now. We took it on a short loop of gravel & dirt roads not far from my office. Those Monomax shocks are stiff and still need some break-in to not feel as rigid in the back.

 

[bryson]

The wiper-washer issue is likely a failed diverter valve - 80's only have one washer fluid pump, and use a solenoid/valve to direct the fluid to either the front or rear window. If it flows fluid anywhere at all, the pump is likely fine, and the valve just needs to be replaced. It's a common-ish issue.

Should be a 85321-60050 for the valve. IIRC, it's located kind of low in the corner of the driver side inner fender and the firewall.

 

[91FJ80FD]

Where did you get a replacement charcoal canister? Thanks

 

[pace it]

The wiper-washer issue is likely a failed diverter valve - 80's only have one washer fluid pump, and use a solenoid/valve to direct the fluid to either the front or rear window. If it flows fluid anywhere at all, the pump is likely fine, and the valve just needs to be replaced. It's a common-ish issue.

Should be a 85321-60050 for the valve. IIRC, it's located kind of low in the corner of the driver side inner fender and the firewall.

Ah, good advice! I had read something about the diverter valve, but forgot to bookmark it and have slept since then. Thank you for information.

Where did you get a replacement charcoal canister? Thanks

It's a cross-referenced VC120 from a GM model - I found the info in some threads on here, in fact. The one I got from RockAuto looks to have been re-boxed/sealed (possible return), so we'll see how it works. IIRC, you can get the VC120 version from local parts stores: Autozone, O'Reily's, etc. It's not a 100% direct fit, but that's fine with us.

 

[Miller605]

How do you adjust the Kickdown cable and throttle cable. Also have you checked your timing?

 

[mudgudgeon]

The center diff lock engages, although it took a few tries and forward motion to unlock it. I'm not sure if that's by design or age/wear. Low range works as well.

100% normal.

One way to get it to disengage is to slip the transmission into neutral while rolling to take any load of the drivetrain. The gears won't shift while they are under load

 

[mudgudgeon]

Down the road:
Get it aligned
Order front brake pads & rotors
Order engine & transmission mounts
Order Marlin Crawler front tie rod kit

Get tie rods fitted before alignment.

The only alignment adjustments that can be done by your typical workshop is toe in/toe out.
And they can confirm existing caster and camber geometry.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Order new front & rear u-joints

OEM or Matsuba U joints are your best bet. Expensive, but one instance where sticking with OEM pays off. Matsuba are equivalent quality.

Many aftermarket u-joints are junk, can't be re-greased effectively (grease blows out through weak rubber cup seals) and low quality joints fail prematurely in these trucks, particularly if lifted

 

[brxxxck]

Ah, good advice! I had read something about the diverter valve, but forgot to bookmark it and have slept since then. Thank you for information.



It's a cross-referenced VC120 from a GM model - I found the info in some threads on here, in fact. The one I got from RockAuto looks to have been re-boxed/sealed (possible return), so we'll see how it works. IIRC, you can get the VC120 version from local parts stores: Autozone, O'Reily's, etc. It's not a 100% direct fit, but that's fine with us.

charcoal can was super easy for me- and I haven't done 90% of what you've done to your rebuild.
mine was hissing for like 20 seconds when I gassed up. I'd get some big pipe clamps or metal zip ties because I've replaced my plastic ones x2 now in about 2 years.

always good to see another 2 tone rig on here, we have the same colorway.

 

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How do you adjust the Kickdown cable and throttle cable. Also have you checked your timing?

We haven't checked timing yet. Our timing light apparently died - so I've been meaning to add that to the list. As for transmission & throttle adjustment, I think he used the process outlined in one of the FSM PDFs. I'll see if I can find it.

100% normal.

One way to get it to disengage is to slip the transmission into neutral while rolling to take any load of the drivetrain. The gears won't shift while they are under load

Good to know. We suspected it was normal, but didn't want to be wrong and risk it getting stuck locked.

Get tie rods fitted before alignment.

The only alignment adjustments that can be done by your typical workshop is toe in/toe out.
And they can confirm existing caster and camber geometry.

Good catch. Tie rods will be replaced before alignment.

OEM or Matsuba U joints are your best bet. Expensive, but one instance where sticking with OEM pays off. Matsuba are equivalent quality.

Many aftermarket u-joints are junk, can't be re-greased effectively (grease blows out through weak rubber cup seals) and low quality joints fail prematurely in these trucks, particularly if lifted

Between Partsouq & Wits End, I should have the OEM u-joints & hardware bookmarked. We may start with the rear u-joint first since it seems the most worn.

We took the Land Cruiser downtown for dinner last night and a stop at the small brewery near our house. A few friends hadn't seen it in it's running & driving form, so it was nice to show off our hard work. We then stopped by the gas station to fill up the gas tank. I was pleasantly surprised by the cost. We're too used to paying more for diesel or 93 octane. Hopefully that will offset the feeling of watching the gas needle drop as it's driven.

 

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charcoal can was super easy for me- and I haven't done 90% of what you've done to your rebuild.
mine was hissing for like 20 seconds when I gassed up. I'd get some big pipe clamps or metal zip ties because I've replaced my plastic ones x2 now in about 2 years.

always good to see another 2 tone rig on here, we have the same colorway.

Thanks for the tip on the clamps. I'll see what we can find.

We love the two-tone! It's very fitting for the era and IMO, is a nice color combo.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Between Partsouq & Wits End, I should have the OEM u-joints & hardware bookmarked. We may start with the rear u-joint first since it seems the most worn.

If you think one is toast, plan on changing them all.
The only way to assess them properly is to unbolt the drive shaft and rotate the uni joints in every direction. They should rotate freely and smoothly in all directions. If the feel excessively stiff, or loose, or clunky they are toast. You can't really check this with the shaft in place.

Also, consider purchasing a tool for removal. They can be a bear to get our.

U Joint Pullers Automotive (Class 1-3) 10105 Universal Heavy Duty U-Joint Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LDGNWGR/?tag=ihco-20

 

[Feldrian]

Joining the convo late. Congrats on joining the "I bought my LC for $500" club!

 

[Michael Hanson]

Hi,as your figuring out 1991-1992 is quit different from later years. Keep extra efi relays in the cruiser. Eventually you will need to rewire with 12 gauge wiring under the black fuse box on the drivers side fender under the hood.

 

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If you think one is toast, plan on changing them all.
The only way to assess them properly is to unbolt the drive shaft and rotate the uni joints in every direction. They should rotate freely and smoothly in all directions. If the feel excessively stiff, or loose, or clunky they are toast. You can't really check this with the shaft in place.

Also, consider purchasing a tool for removal. They can be a bear to get our.

U Joint Pullers Automotive (Class 1-3) 10105 Universal Heavy Duty U-Joint Puller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08LDGNWGR/?tag=ihco-20

Thank you for the recommendation & link.

Joining the convo late. Congrats on joining the "I bought my LC for $500" club!

Thanks! Yours looks like it's come a long way since you saved it.

Hi,as your figuring out 1991-1992 is quit different from later years. Keep extra efi relays in the cruiser. Eventually you will need to rewire with 12 gauge wiring under the black fuse box on the drivers side fender under the hood.

Definitely finding a lot of the differences as we dig in. Fortunately we're not deterred easily. I've got some links bookmarked on upgrading the wiring & will probably pick up another "updated" EFI main relay to be an additional spare. I also have part numbers for the fuel pump & sock, FPR, and EFI "opening circuit" relay that I would like to replace for peace of mind down the road. Summers here can get hot (100*) and humid, which is not forgiving with those underhood temps & old wiring.

Another mini update:

The Land Cruiser has rolled 100 miles since we started driving it. I think it officially hit that number on the way to the parts store yesterday afternoon. None of the interior dome lights worked, even with new bulbs. Not surprising considering the corrosion on the contacts after sitting with open windows for a few years. Husband was able to get the front map light & middle dome light working after some cleaning, but the rear dome light may be done. It doesn't look like they're easily rebuildable either with things riveted in. Unless someone has found a trick that works.

I found a new OEM dome light on eBay, but the $50+ price tag was off-putting. Feel free to comment if you know of a better option.

 

[brxxxck]

Thank you for the recommendation & link.

Thanks! Yours looks like it's come a long way since you saved it.

Definitely finding a lot of the differences as we dig in. Fortunately we're not deterred easily. I've got some links bookmarked on upgrading the wiring & will probably pick up another "updated" EFI main relay to be an additional spare. I also have part numbers for the fuel pump & sock, FPR, and EFI "opening circuit" relay that I would like to replace for peace of mind down the road. Summers here can get hot (100*) and humid, which is not forgiving with those underhood temps & old wiring.

Another mini update:

The Land Cruiser has rolled 100 miles since we started driving it. I think it officially hit that number on the way to the parts store yesterday afternoon. None of the interior dome lights worked, even with new bulbs. Not surprising considering the corrosion on the contacts after sitting with open windows for a few years. Husband was able to get the front map light & middle dome light working after some cleaning, but the rear dome light may be done. It doesn't look like they're easily rebuildable either with things riveted in. Unless someone has found a trick that works.

I found a new OEM dome light on eBay, but the $50+ price tag was off-putting. Feel free to comment if you know of a better option.

If you're worried about the temps under the hood, you can pick up @Outsane 's hood risers off his store- SolveFunction