Wanted 5 Speed Bearing kit WANTED

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You in Canada?

If so I am getting back into selling the kits, pm me for more info interested.

Also, not to kill the deal, if you are US bound you will do much better buying the kit on your side of the line.

Edit Gotta remeber, not I am, but we are as I have a new partner.

Rob


I've decided to tear into the H55F I have sitting here with worn bearings. Does anyone either have for sale or know where I can find a re-build/bearing kit for a diesel H55F? :cheers:
 
Getting the old bearings out is NOT easy!
 
cruiseroutfitters would be cheapest US source for a H55 kit.

You will need some pullers, the longest arm of which must grab down the rear main shaft to the case to pull that bearing (semi blind). look over FSM, you may be in over your head, especially without the right tools.

Also, NONE of the H55 kits include synchro rings, these must be had from Toyota (all three are same pn). Sychronizer ring (1st gear) is $400+/- from Toyota and slightly cheaper aftermarket- but never commonly found in the US aftermarket.
 
I took a 4 speed apart and rebuilt it again with a lot of pounding with the rubber mallet for the FJ55 (it needed a different input shaft for the 3B). I had the bearings done on my H55 by a shop WITH the SST's and they nearly broke the SST's so sometimes one can do it without the SST's and sometime the SST's barely do it. In any case it's not easy and you NEED to follow the manual when you take it apart and put it together or you won't have the right order.
 
Okay. I've been over the manual and think I could do what needs to be done... but it will require that I purchase the puller. Rather than deal with that I think I'll take the transmisison and the kit to a transmisson shop and have them do it. How much should this cost me?
 
universal puller kit is $900+ from OTC etc.

I use a Snap on w/ 7" modified jaws for the counter shaft bearings and 9" jaws for the 5th gear cluster and rear main shaft support bearing (the one that fits in t-case, not the elusive housing bearing). cost, $250 plus grinding time on 7".

...and the 9" are not long enough for the rear main shaft bearing. I have photos of a homemade tool, but never built it.
 
OTC is top notch tools, made my puller system for less than 90.00 dollars with grade eight bolts.

As for pressing the bearings on, my friend a mill right by trade and also a diesel mechanic showed me how to install bearings quickly using a torch, plate steel and the edge of a fabrication table.

Heat gently until you see smoke (bearing shipping oil) and using big heavey gloves drop the bearing onto the shaft, gently tap the inner race with a drift and hammer, measer back side of the bearing for minimum factory spec clearance.

Done

universal puller kit is $900+ from OTC etc.

I use a Snap on w/ 7" modified jaws for the counter shaft bearings and 9" jaws for the 5th gear cluster and rear main shaft support bearing (the one that fits in t-case, not the elusive housing bearing). cost, $250 plus grinding time on 7".

...and the 9" are not long enough for the rear main shaft bearing. I have photos of a homemade tool, but never built it.
 
I used to work at a ski resort keeping the snow making system running. As I recall we used a simmilar "torch and snow" method to replace the bearings in the water pumps... I'd love to see pictures of the tool you made. A friend has offered the use of his shop for the press. Thanks.
 
Fe Sus,
I am also trying to rebuild my H55 to replace a worn output shaft.

I just tried to machine a set of pullers for my SnapOn puller assembly.
Unfortunately, I tried using Drill Rod because that is what was easilly available. I am sure I made things worse by heat treating it -- probably made it more brittle.

I think if I could source a higher strength steel I could make the right tool. I am considering 8620 Alloy Steel with a yield strength of 100,000psi.
Can someone help me out in selecting the right steel?
Once I have the right setup, I could probably build a few of these that would work and ship them out for those that are interested.

Another puller is required to mount with a slap-hammer to pull the input shaft out. The FSM shows a cage that is bolted around the splines of the shaft.
Has anyone built a tool to pull the input shaft?


Here is my failed attempt to pull the countershaft bearing out...
PullerFailure.webp
PullerBuild.webp
 
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easiest way for counter shaft is to grind the 7" jaws to fit.

I'd like to see this thread recreated in a tech format with rob posting his tools etc and "how to". My tools are on loan so I cannot get digitals myself (maybe over the next week).

And I have never found heat needed for putting bearings on shafts- use shims and generously grease nut to drive the bearings on slowly. Best to use a press when you can (like input bearing).
 
Rick, I would love to post it, lost all files some time ago with every build I ever did. Thankfully I have some of my stuff on the website.


easiest way for counter shaft is to grind the 7" jaws to fit.

I'd like to see this thread recreated in a tech format with rob posting his tools etc and "how to". My tools are on loan so I cannot get digitals myself (maybe over the next week).

I am sure the grease would work also, just found the heat fast and very efficient, plus you need exact fitting tube to drive it on the shaft to put all the pressure on the inside of the race. And you need a press, neither of these tools I own.

However I did own a set of torches so it made the choice for me.


And I have never found heat needed for putting bearings on shafts- use shims and generously grease nut to drive the bearings on slowly. Best to use a press when you can (like input bearing).
 
panoramic-
if/when you find the right material to make the puller strong enough I'd quite possibly be interested in picking on up from you. Keep us posted on your progress? Good luck on the re-build, BTW.
 
I use my press instead of pullers for most of the shafts on the H55 it works great.

Cheers,

Michael

Michael,
1) How do you pull the 1st bearing out? I think the FSM calls for it to pulled out without the shaft to prevent pressure on the gears behind it.

2) When pulling the input shaft and bearing, the FSM uses a special cage over the splines and a slap hammer. How are you using your press for this procedure?

- Eric
 
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