4WD knob for the noobs (and CDL switch)

[landcruiser3DP]

noob alert but i’ve got a 98 4WD taco. i leave the front hubs unlocked and i have 2WD. lock the hubs and i’m in 4WD. then i switch to H and L at least as i remember.

i can’t tell if i have something different here as it relates to the knob but...

i had it in Park. thought i got the shift lever to Low (i guess) but still had it in Neutral.

so i put it in drive, gave it gas and of course it didn’t move. then i tried shifting it into L and i ground some gears.

then i guess i put it in Park (?). got it in H and all was good.

anyone mind explaining to me what was moving in relation to what and why getting it into Park worked? sorry for the dumb question but i could read up all day on this and still not understand.

also, what exactly does putting a CDL switch get me?

THANKS

and yes that is the “prison shiv” from WE.

 

[LandCruiserPhil]

i’ve got a 98 4WD taco. i leave the front hubs unlocked and i have 2WD. lock the hubs and i’m in 4WD. then i switch to H and L at least as i remember.

i can’t tell if i have something different here as it relates to the know but...

i had it in Park. thought i got the shift lever to Low (i guess) but still has it in Neutral.

You are in the 80 series section
delete you post and repost in the Taco section (linked below) for better info although its said 80 guys know all

Tacoma (Gen 1) - 4Runner (Gen 3)

 

[landcruiser3DP]

You are in the 80 series section
delete you post and repost in the Taco section (linked below) for better info although its said 80 guys know all

Tacoma (Gen 1) - 4Runner (Gen 3)

thanks. sorry. my bad. i got halfway through posting it and it pocket sent itself. i edited it and it is clearer. apologies...

 

[Tools R Us]

...
i had it in Park. thought i got the shift lever to Low (i guess) but still had it in Neutral.

so i put it in drive, gave it gas and of course it didn’t move. then i tried shifting it into L and i ground some gears.

then i guess i put it in Park (?). got it in H and all was good.

anyone mind explaining to me what was moving in relation to what and why getting it into Park worked? sorry for the dumb question but i could read up all day in this and still not understand.

Best to shift the transfer with the transmission in neutral, removes load from the gears. If there is gear movement, there can be brief gear clash, hesitating can reduce or eliminate it.

also, what exactly does putting a CDL switch get me?
...

The stock setup locks the CDL when shifted into low range, for most this works well.

Adding the switch, allows locking in high range, if you have a needed for that, like highway speed snow, maybe.

Doing the Pin 7 mod, allows unlocking in low range, can be handy in some limited conditions. Don't usually recommend it for those new to the platform. Being able to unlock is slight advantage, the problem is you have to remember to lock it, many have gotten in trouble from forgetting. The exception is with lunch box lockers, being able to unlock is a significantly bigger advantage.

 

[96FZJ80]

@Tools R Us I have a hazard switch I'm going to plug in for a CDL switch. Not that I ever think I'd need to use it but it seems I've read here many times to "... remove the drive shaft and lock the center diff..." when there is a problem on either end. I'm thinking that might be a good thing to get me home or to the next town if any issue out on the road somewhere. That make sense?

Pin 7 mod. Can't think of a reason I'd ever need to be in L and not have the differential locked. But just for clarification, if you've done the pin 7 mod when you shift to L you MUST have the CDL switch in order to lock the differential?

 

[ZackR]

Can't think of a reason I'd ever need to be in L and not have the differential locked. But just for clarification

Its a lot easier to make a tight turn when the CDL is unlocked. For example you are going up a steep narrow switchback road, so you want low since its steep, but you also want to make the tight turn.

 

[96FZJ80]

Its a lot easier to make a tight turn when the CDL is unlocked. For example you are going up a steep narrow switchback road, so you want low since its steep, but you also want to make the tight turn.

Good point. So now I have a reason to do the pin 7 mod.

 

[ZackR]

Good point. So now I have a reason to do the pin 7 mod.

Sort of but I'd wait for now. Get the CDL switch first and then if you find yourself needing more flexibility then go for the 7pin mod later on. I still haven't done it but I have been in the situation a few times where it would be useful.

For me the CDL in high range is most useful on forest service roads where the snow less than a foot deep with a lot of puddles and melt. I'm usually not going slow enough to need low but it's nice to have the extra traction. Its also nice to have the ABS off when on dirt roads.

 

[Tools R Us]

@Tools R Us I have a hazard switch I'm going to plug in for a CDL switch. Not that I ever think I'd need to use it but it seems I've read here many times to "... remove the drive shaft and lock the center diff..." when there is a problem on either end. I'm thinking that might be a good thing to get me home or to the next town if any issue out on the road somewhere. That make sense?

That is easy, no need for the switch. Shift low to lock the center, remove the Diff fuse, shift high and drive, when you want it unlocked simply replace the fuse.

Pin 7 mod. Can't think of a reason I'd ever need to be in L and not have the differential locked. But just for clarification, if you've done the pin 7 mod when you shift to L you MUST have the CDL switch in order to lock the differential?

Pin 7 removes the automatic function, if you want it locked, have to punch the button.

 

[96FZJ80]

That is easy, no need for the switch. Shift low to lock the center, remove the Diff fuse, shift high and drive, when you want it unlocked simply replace the fuse.



Pin 7 removes the automatic function, if you want it locked, have to punch the button.

Ahhhh. And that way no kids with "wonder what this button does" curiosity could be driving around town with the differential locked. Thanks.

 

[96FZJ80]

So could you pull the fuse and then shift to L and drive in L without the differential locked?

 

[Tools R Us]

So could you pull the fuse and then shift to L and drive in L without the differential locked?

Correct, but not sure why you would need/want to?

 

[ZackR]

Another thing to keep in mind, you can engage/disengage the CDL while driving while in high range. I do this frequently on dirt roads and it engages right away vs the wait and see game when engaging from a stop. Its good to keep the actuator exercised so it works when you need it.

 

[96FZJ80]

Me neither but nice to know I can if I want

Questions are more about understanding it. Thanks.

 

[shocktower]

Sort of but I'd wait for now. Get the CDL switch first and then if you find yourself needing more flexibility then go for the 7pin mod later on. I still haven't done it but I have been in the situation a few times where it would be useful.

For me the CDL in high range is most useful on forest service roads where the snow less than a foot deep with a lot of puddles and melt. I'm usually not going slow enough to need low but it's nice to have the extra traction. Its also nice to have the ABS off when on dirt roads.

I like my 7 pin mod, because my torque converter will lock( 6bt Cummins swap) and I like the feeling and I usually only go about 20-25 or less , I really liked it when I did not have the Cummins I used it when winter was nasty

 

[BILT4ME]

Me neither but nice to know I can if I want

Questions are more about understanding it. Thanks.

I like the Pin 7 mod so I can drive in Low Range WITHOUT the CDL locked, particularly if I am in my concrete driveway and I'm trying to back a trailer up the hill and I want a little more control but I don;t want the CDL locked because I'm on dry pavement.

That's my biggest use.

I also DO want to drive with the CDL locked in High range when I'm driving in a snow storm and I want as much optimal traction I can get as I'm flying 75 MPH down the center of a two-lane highway at 1:00 AM during a blizzard, bucking 2 ft drifts.

 

[Cruzerman]

Ahhhh. And that way no kids with "wonder what this button does" curiosity could be driving around town with the differential locked. Thanks.

Remember, even pushing the button will light up the diff locked light on the dash.

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Best to shift the transfer with the transmission in neutral, removes load from the gears. If there is gear movement, there can be brief gear clash, hesitating can reduce or eliminate it.



The stock setup locks the CDL when shifted into low range, for most this works well.

Adding the switch, allows locking in high range, if you have a needed for that, like highway speed snow, maybe.

Doing the Pin 7 mod, allows unlocking in low range, can be handy in some limited conditions. Don't usually recommend it for those new to the platform. Being able to unlock is slight advantage, the problem is you have to remember to lock it, many have gotten in trouble from forgetting. The exception is with lunch box lockers, being able to unlock is a significantly bigger advantage.

guess i could change that title to “4WD knob for the Knoobs”...

anyway, @Tools R Us THANKS. on this part please:

“Best to shift the transfer with the transmission in neutral, removes load from the gears. If there is gear movement, there can be brief gear clash, hesitating can reduce or eliminate it.”

what do you mean by hesitating please?

also...

Transfer case (which is between the engine and the transmission) is handling the - well, er - what is it handling exactly?

and you want the Transmission (at the back) in neutral and “unloaded” (meaning nothing is mated i guess)? so i could basically have it in NEUTRAL and /rev/ the - er, i guess i am revving the Engine so the crankshaft is spinning? but the Transmission is in Neutral so nothing is mated?

i guess i haven’t cracked into any of this so it is tricky to know where things meet or what they are doing - but L-N-H shifting in the transfer case will happen flawlessly as long as i am in Engine neutral?

or another question i guess. will it clash if i am in Engine neutral and i try to get into H or L from Neutral in the transfer case? because i think that is what i did after revving the engine and only getting it into Park seemed to work.

sorry but i need to look for “innard drawings” or pics of these i guess. cause right now it seems like a lot of black magic...

 

[landcruiser3DP]

Best to shift the transfer with the transmission in neutral, removes load from the gears. If there is gear movement, there can be brief gear clash, hesitating can reduce or eliminate it.



The stock setup locks the CDL when shifted into low range, for most this works well.

Adding the switch, allows locking in high range, if you have a needed for that, like highway speed snow, maybe.

Doing the Pin 7 mod, allows unlocking in low range, can be handy in some limited conditions. Don't usually recommend it for those new to the platform. Being able to unlock is slight advantage, the problem is you have to remember to lock it, many have gotten in trouble from forgetting. The exception is with lunch box lockers, being able to unlock is a significantly bigger advantage.

on the CDL please while my brain is still working a little:

so it allows me to lock the Center Differential (the big hub in the middle of the deiveshaft i guess) which lets me, er, it locks the front axle speed and the rear axle speed so they spin at the same speeds instead of being able to spin at different speeds (apologies if that is mangled...)?

is it “lock on the fly” or do you need to be at a stop in PARK or NEUTRAL?

and basically i guess you will feel it locked when the transfer case is in High and you are at high speed? and it sill obviously stay locked when you are at low speeds?

no CDL switch means the CDL locks automatically at low speed or when it senses you need it somehow?

does the CDL lock when you shift the transfer case to Low?

THANKS. sort of slow going with this stuff...

 

[ZackR]

guess i could change that title to “4WD knob for the Knoobs”...

anyway, @Tools R Us THANKS. on this part please:

“Best to shift the transfer with the transmission in neutral, removes load from the gears. If there is gear movement, there can be brief gear clash, hesitating can reduce or eliminate it.”

what do you mean by hesitating please?

also...

Transfer case (which is between the engine and the transmission) is handling the - well, er - what is it handling exactly?

and you want the Transmission (at the back) in neutral and “unloaded” (meaning nothing is mated i guess)? so i could basically have it in NEUTRAL and /rev/ the - er, i guess i am revving the Engine so the crankshaft is spinning? but the Transmission is in Neutral so nothing is mated?

i guess i haven’t cracked into any of this so it is tricky to know where things meet or what they are doing - but L-N-H shifting in the transfer case will happen flawlessly as long as i am in Engine neutral?

or another question i guess. will it clash if i am in Engine neutral and i try to get into H or L from Neutral in the transfer case? because i think that is what i did after revving the engine and only getting it into Park seemed to work.

sorry but i need to look for “innard drawings” or pics of these i guess. cause right now it seems like a lot of black magic...

As long as the transmission is in park or neutral and the vehicle is stopped it will go from H to L and vice versa. I personally select neutral, and it slides right in. Unloaded means you don't want to be in park on a hill while you try to move from H to L, rather on flat ground where there is no load being forced upon the transfer case from the wheels.

The transfer case is after the transmission and takes the power from the output side of the transmission and distributes it to the driveshafts (front and rear) where its then distributed to the differentials (front and rear) and then finally to the drive axles (all four wheels).