4Runner Oil Change Help, Please!!!

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Nov 9, 2009
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Hi folks,
I'm new to the forum, and new to my 4Runner. First time oil change, and I'm stumped. It is a 2002 Sport Edition with the skidplate package, etc. How in the world do you get to the %&^*^ oil filter to remove and replace it?

I'm used to simple things like my F250 diesel. Lay in one spot and reach everything. What moron put a filter not only upside down on the engine, but also where no one that isn't double-jointed can get to it?

Thanks very much for your assistance, I can't believe I had to ask for help on an oil change.

Bob D.
 
Do you have the 4.0L V6 or the 4.7L V8?

The V6 has the filter accessible from under the hood, there's a little rubber cap on the underside of the oil filter housing which you can remove and place a small can under to catch the oil.

The V8 requires removing the skid plate. IIRC, the Sport Edition has an extra plate in the front that makes the job a little harder. Otherwise, there are 5-6 12MM bolts holding that thing on, it pivots in the front, then releases from a couple hooks.

HTH
 
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Hey, thanks for the quick response!

I have the 3.4L V6, it is a 2002, not aware any other engine was available.

I finally figured out a way to reach the stupid filter. I put a cup-type Snap-on oil filter in from behind the skidplate, stuck a ratchet in from in front. Somehow got the two together, and then it was pretty easy to slip it on the filter. And of course the filter wasn't really tight, since I'm sure the mechanic that last did the change had a heck of a time too.

I installed a K&N filter with the 1" nut on the end, so next time I'll try that. If it is harder than using the cup-type, I'll go back to a standard unit.

I'm pretty new to Toyota's, but we have bought two in the past year. A 1995 4Runner Limited and a 2002 4Runner Sport Edition. I don't do anything much more mechanical than oil changes, but I'll be posting to get advise on the mechanical failures that are sure to happen.

Thank you again for the quick response!

Bob D.
 
Sorry, I was off on the year, thinking of the next generation with those engine choices.

The skid plate on yours come off pretty much the same way, you just have to also take out the bolts for the rear plate as well.

It's all alot easier on a hoist. :D
 
I have a 93 Toy Pick Up V6 3.0 248K miles and also a 2006 4.7L Tundra 46K miles and they both come with the skidplate and they are easy to remove and only takes about 5 minutes MAX to remove? Great cover and it does it's job to protect everything it covers!:clap:
If you take care of them they will take care of you and your wallet!
 
Two entry points:

1) reach through the front of the driver side wheel well, moving the cover/flap aside.

2) reach through the bottom on the front driver side, with the skid plate off.

Either way, its best to pull the skid plate. It saves a big mess. I usually unscrew the filter a bit, and let it drain slowly, then remove it. Otherwise, put a rag under it as you remove it. Its about the only thing I don't like about the 3.4 liter V6. Someday... oil filter relocation kit.

Hope that helps.
 
I didn't take off the skidplates. I did take out the front bolts on the front plate, then loosened the bolts on the rear plate. Since the sucker still didn't seem to want to budge, I gave up that route. Next time, I'll take the plates off if I have to use a sawzall! But, it really worked ok laying in from the front, head next to the left front tire. Reached in right arm from behind the axle and in front with the left arm.

With the cup type wrench I stuck it in from the front and then connected the ratchet to it, slipped it on the filter, and off it came.

The little "rubber" cover thingie is still snapped on the wheel well, so I figured no one had ever taken it off. Wasn't sure if that was supposed to be a removable item or not.

Total oil change time on F250 Diesel: 20 minutes
Total oil change time on 4Runner: 2 1/2 hours

Yeesh!

Next one will be faster though!
 
Yeah, I had trouble with the skidplate my first time too. It's actually 2 pieces. Two front bolts, two bolts holding the two skidplates together, two mid bolts, and 4 front bolts. Take out the 3 at the front, the two at the VERY back, and there are two more hidden up in recessed holes in the mid-section. Once you get the procedure down, the whole oil change can be done in under 30 minutes with hand tools. If you go in through the bottom, you can fit a regular oil filter wrench on as well. It can be done from the side as well, but its a bit of a tetris act.
 
I didn't take off the skidplates. I did take out the front bolts on the front plate, then loosened the bolts on the rear plate. Since the sucker still didn't seem to want to budge, I gave up that route. Next time, I'll take the plates off if I have to use a sawzall! But, it really worked ok laying in from the front, head next to the left front tire. Reached in right arm from behind the axle and in front with the left arm.

With the cup type wrench I stuck it in from the front and then connected the ratchet to it, slipped it on the filter, and off it came.

The little "rubber" cover thingie is still snapped on the wheel well, so I figured no one had ever taken it off. Wasn't sure if that was supposed to be a removable item or not.

Total oil change time on F250 Diesel: 20 minutes
Total oil change time on 4Runner: 2 1/2 hours

Yeesh!

Next one will be faster though!

Yeah, the oil change on the 3.4 is a real trick. After about 10 oil+filter changes I've finally got mine down to about 20 minutes. I think you're onto the right idea, but here is what I do:

1) loose filler cap, remove drain plug, drain old oil. duh
2) remove two of the snaps on the rubber "skirt" in the drivers side wheel well allowing me to reach my hand into bay to access the filter.
3) stuff two old T-shirts into the space under the filter. My engine has a grounding strap attached there that sort of holds the rags in place.I do not remove the skid plate because the rags catch the oil and I don't get any drip. I found the if the oil reaches the skidplate, it's already soaked the A arms and half of the engine anyway :frown:
4) Reach my hand in and loosen the filter. If it's too tight, I use the Craftsmen filter wrench with 16 inches of extensions. (http://www.sears.com/shc/s/p_10153_12605_02820523000P )
5) pull the filter out through the hole in the fenderwell. It's a tight fit and you have to have some hand dextarity to flip it upright first and pull it out in one motion. It WILL fit and I even use the longer Napa 1516 sized filter.
6) insert new filter and hand tighten
7) replace drainplug
8) remove old T shirts and refill oil

Now that I've practiced a few times, I don't even need a spill mat on the garage floor and it takes 20 minutes or less. Interestingly my 3.4 L seems to always take 6 quarts to fill up. I think the most time consuming part of the operation is refilling it and refilling me: :beer:
 
appreciate the write up Mtn Mike

Good writeup sir.

Most helpful for my first attempt at this.

Most appreciated.:clap:
 
Having now done this myself I feel it is money well spent to take it to the dealership.

I provide my own synthetic oil and bought a case of OEM filters. For $20 in labor they wash my ride and point out any noticeable shortcomings in my maintenance practices. They use my 6 quarts and my provided filter so price gouging is non existent.

The skid plate removal guys- thanks for pointing out the hidden recessed bolts. Those were hiding from me.

reaching in through the drivers side flap-well you have to be a long armed guy to get much torque on the filter. I was able to get it done, but honestly removing the tire would have been more comfortable for me. I used a cap end wrench to grab the filter and once it gets just a bit oily it has not much grip left.

Even unemployed at present I can justify having the stealership do this vital chore for me quickly. A decent car wash alone is pushing $10 these days....

I miss my 95 at times but the filter on my 22Re led to shoulder surgery....
1204to0805pics 154.webp
 

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