4.10’s to 4.30’s. Worth It? (1 Viewer)

[Donaaayyy]

YWST: Compete 100/470 HF2A T-Cases - Stock - High Range and/or Low Range Re-Geared

We are very excited to offer Part# TC36130. This is a complete new OEM transfer case assembly that can be offered in stock gearing or aftermarket high range and low range options. These cases are in-stock (including pre-geared options) and ready to ship as soon as today! US Retail on this case...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[hoser]

4.1 to 4.3 would be worth it if it was like $500 including labor.... $750 tops!

 

[GTV]

People regear with 33's lol

I have 33's now but their time is coming to end.

What’s your goal- stock ratio drivability with 33’s?

4.10 to 4.30 is less than 5% change and on the 5speed- not worth messing with- in fact mechanically speaking it’s prob a step backward if the front diff is the earlier weaker pinion. Also- the stock front diff carrier in all years is prone to flex under shock load- which can (and does) end in failure: ring gear on 5spd and spider on 4spd. Swapping the diffs won’t cure that weak point- (front diff) only a locked carrier will improve that.

Fwiw 4.88 isn’t “extreme” on a 5spd with 33’s but it’s going to chew a little more fuel. Transmission won’t work as hard either, and in mountainous areas 4.88 is awesome on long mountain pass climbs, but the cost again is a mission creep- cause if you regear, better to add the lockers while your at it (or double your labor later) and that’s going to add $2200 to your bill.


The suggestion for diff regear is a solid less costly option-that delivers a 4.56 gear ratio- but doesn’t solve the weak link which is the front diff. If you drive and wheel mindful of front wheel slip and shock load- you might avoid a ring gear fail.

The goal is OEM (or better) levels of drivability, comfort and refinement on near 35" tires. With thought and planning I think this is totally possible.

I'm aware of the 2 vs 4 pinion diffs, that's why I've been on the lookout specifically for '00-'02 parts to swap in. The only difference is the ratios.

I've "wheeled" my truck once and wasn't a fan. I'm not out there trying to break sh!t and see what I can crawl up. I'll be the first to admit that my current 33's can do what I ask of the truck (although low range is annoyingly tall) and I don't need larger tires but this forum doesn't exist to solely satisfy our needs.

Very solid advice here ... I didn't even think to double-check what year the front axle is coming out of ... 98-99 I think had the two-pinion diff in the font, a bit weaker than later 4 pinion diffs. Good call ...

Build date is 7/00 so as long as nothing has been swapped by a PO it should have a four pinion and 4.30's.

4.1 to 4.3 would be worth it if it was like $500 including labor.... $750 tops!

Completely agree. Also gives me an excuse to do some other "while I'm in there" jobs.

Tcase gears and 4.30 axle gears gets you to a 4.73:1. Not a shabby way to go if the 4.30 diffs turn out good.

Low range would net about a 50:1 crawl ratio, high range would be ever so slightly more aggressive than stock. Best of both worlds, IMO.


I'm thinking I'll call the yard on Monday and see if they'll throw in a few more odds and ends to sweeten the deal.

 

[MountaineerLC]

I've "wheeled" my truck once and wasn't a fan. I'm not out there trying to break sh!t and see what I can crawl up. I'll be the first to admit that my current 33's can do what I ask of the truck (although low range is annoyingly tall) and I don't need larger tires but this forum doesn't exist to solely satisfy our needs.

While I enjoy challenging myself and my LC to an extent, I enjoy overland type off roading more than more hardcore wheeling or crawling. For me it boils down to the fact that I've got to be able to drive my LC to work on Monday after a weekend off road. (not to mention the cost of replacing broken parts)

To get back more on topic: I think the swap makes more sense if you find a locked rear axle from a 98-99 to swap over. Then find a 4 pinion from from a 00-02.

Even though you're not wheeling hard, the added control of being able to lock the rear and ease through obstacles vs having to use momentum could make it more "worth it". (Less likely to damage something)

 

[abuck99]

Crashed trucks often have damaged drivelines- be sure everything rotates freely.

 

[GTV]

While I enjoy challenging myself and my LC to an extent, I enjoy overland type off roading more than more hardcore wheeling or crawling. For me it boils down to the fact that I've got to be able to drive my LC to work on Monday after a weekend off road. (not to mention the cost of replacing broken parts)

To get back more on topic: I think the swap makes more sense if you find a locked rear axle from a 98-99 to swap over. Then find a 4 pinion from from a 00-02.

Even though you're not wheeling hard, the added control of being able to lock the rear and ease through obstacles vs having to use momentum could make it more "worth it". (Less likely to damage something)

I'm more of an overlander myself as well. Getting to campsites most others can't is my primary goal. I'm looking for a Tundra (see sig below) so I don't have to daily the LC but until then it's all I've got to get me around as well.

A factory locked rear axle would definitely be the ultimate in my book. I've been keeping an eye out for one but they're usually halfway across the country and shipping kills the deal. So either I get the 4.30 front diff and keep looking for a locked rear axle (who knows how long that will take) or get both 4.30's now and if/when a locked rear axle comes up I can swap it in.

Crashed trucks often have damaged drivelines- be sure everything rotates freely.

That is my #1 concern.

 

[GTV]

The deal wasn't sweet enough on this so I passed.

Spent my car money on a 2005 RCLB Tundra V8 4x4 instead