3rd gen 4runner plowing some snow

[Jetboy]

I made a snow plow a few years back for my 4runner. https://forum.ih8mud.com/95-gen-toyota-trucks/439163-3rd-gen-4runner-homemade-snow-plow.html Had a number of issues with the original plow A-frame and have since totally rebuilt it a LOT stronger with regular snowplow springs. (I used to own a snowplowing business, so I can completely understand the shortcomings of this, but I don't think the 4runner is up to the task of a fully size commercial plow.)

We got a good snowfall this weekend and I put her to work. Took a couple pics of one of my buddies driveways I plowed with it. The old girl does a pretty decent job for a lightweight SUV with a home built plow.

 

[danthemanx07]

That is nuts. It was 72 degrees in New Orleans this weekend.

Looks like the 4runner means business.

 

[Mr Chuck Norris]

Toyotas will do anything!

 

[Haggis]

I just learned one more thing my 4Runnrer is capable of. Nice!

 

[Jetboy]

So... another big snow fall at my place and I bent the piss out of my home built A-frame for the plow. Using a custom built front receiver I really wanted to keep the mounts tucked up as high was possible. Most if not all commercial plow sub-frames hang low - for a reason - they push relatively level to the ground against the blade. Then when the blade hits and obstacle the force is more or less straight forward. On my set up the force was down at a relatively steep angle, so when tripped or just against a really heavy pile, the plow blade is pushed down and the weight of the vehicle is pushed up onto the frame. This is bad for light weight framed plow...

This will be the third iteration of the skinner plow. The first was simply too weak and folded after just a couple uses. This one lasted two+ years. I think the next one will be even better - and almost as light weight. I'll post pics when it's ready for prime time.

 

[Jetboy]

New plow setup. Push angles are MUCH better, and it remains almost entirely removeable.

I redesigned the front hitch - added two new receiver tubes on the outside. Then I added two drop hitches. From there I cut 1 face off two lengths of receiver tube and drilled them to match the drop hitch. I added a cross beam to stabilize the two sides and then a couple tabs are put on each side to push. Now I can adjust the push height. We'll see how well it works.

 

[Jetboy]

That was supposed to have a couple pics with it.

 

[RyanAK40]

How does the new setup work? I'm thinkin about building a plow for my 40 for next winter.

 

[Jetboy]

How does the new setup work? I'm thinkin about building a plow for my 40 for next winter.

Works great. Much much better than the old setup. The push angle is really important to keep as level as possible. The new adjustable drops allow me to get a lot closer. Before when the blade tripped the downward angle of the A-frame would get steeper pushing the plow into the ground and the 4runner would want to climb up on it. Plowing over something like a shallow gutter was required me to lift the blade. With the new setup it acts just like a commercial plow. Follows the contours of the surface and trips just enough to go over the obstacles, but doesn't bind up. It's a lot less stress on everything.

When you're getting closer to building, PM me and I can give you some better pics of everything and measurements. This was just a light weight toy for my driveway compared to pro plows. But it works good enough for my current use. When in doubt about a particular design element I've tried to generally mimic design choices by the pro commercial units only lighter weight.

Power angle is my next project for this when I get time. Either small hydraulic 2 way pump (2way power packs are kinda $ for my el-cheapo plow, so I'm thinking a used 12v trim pump from an outboard boat motor if I can find one cheap or free with a small 2 way cyl.). Or a 12v linear actuator if I can find a good cheap one. I'll set up as a push/pull on one side rather than have two to keep it simple and light. I really don't need angle, but after having it, it's hard to go without.

 

[toyminator]

I have some thoughts in my head about building a plate bumper for my 4Runner that the tow rings could double as a plow mount and the stinger bar could double as the cantilever for the winch to lift the plow. Looks good though.

 

[Jetboy]

I have some thoughts in my head about building a plate bumper for my 4Runner that the tow rings could double as a plow mount and the stinger bar could double as the cantilever for the winch to lift the plow. Looks good though.

Spend some time considering the load path and forces on the push bar (usually called the "A frame"). What you are describing is exactly how I had mine originally set up. The angle of the A frame relative to the surface your plowing will make a big difference in how it functions. In particular it's important to get the push pin location close to level with the man pivot point on the plow blade.

If it's not level, the force one the plow pivot point is both forward and downward. As the blade trips, the pivot point moves lower and the angle increases putting greater down force on the pivot and ultimately pushes the plow face down to the surface often stopping the plows forward movement. Then the vehicle rides up the a-frame like a pole vault. Something will yield. Usually part of the frame. The result is a plow that wants to trip on every little crack, and doesn't trip and rebound like it should by simply bending enough to slide over the obstacle and returning to the original set position.

You will want your tow points on your bumper up high. That creates a problem with how to handle the a-frame angle. IMO there are two solutions. The first is how I've done mine: make a fixed drop frame that is removable, the other is to make the blade assembly such that the a-frame pushes against the top of the blade so it's level. This can be done. The problem with this situation is that the distance between the pivot pins on the blade and the cutting edge of the blade determine the leverage the blade has against the springs. Pushing at a low point allows relatively light weight springs to do the job. Pushing up high will require something different from a traditional snowplow trip spring. Possibly a single or pair of auto coils springs in compression? Or maybe some type of cylinder with air pressure or auto air bags? I'm not really sure what the ideal spring would look like for that set up, but it will need significantly more resistance than a pair of regular plow springs can provide.

That's why I went the route I did. I took 3 iterations to get there, but I don't think a plow will work well without something similar.