My 1996 4runner is getting old. It's just over 200k and still riding on the original front struts, so I decided it was finally time to swap them out. I thought I'd post this up as I found some misinformation on what fits and things of that nature while I was researching what to put on.
I used the Tundra 24-188265 adjustable front shocks. I had read some posters claiming that they wouldn't fit properly with the factory springs. Mine fit the factory springs like they were made for eachother. I don't know why other ones wouldn't fit, but these fit exactly as they should with no binding, no hammering, just fit right into place.
I didn't want a lift, but the possibility is there in the future. These give the option of up to 2.5" ish of lift.
Compared to the factory shock, the distance between lower spring plate and the eye of the lower shock sat between the lowest and first slot up for the snap ring. In the lowest position it would probably be just shorter than factory height. With one level up, mine gained about 1/2" in height. Since I used stock springs, I don't expect any settling.
Ride quality is much better than it was - but it was on 200k mile shocks.
The one big frustration is trying to get the new assembly into the lower a-arm. It's a fight. The Tundra version of the 5100 compresses to the same short length, but has more travel on the extension end - by 2ish inches. What that means is that the uncompressed strut assembly is longer than the one you took out by 2" and when you go to put it back in, it doesn't fit.
I had to use a combination of putting a jack between the upper a-arm and the inner fender pushing down on the top a-arm until I was concerned about ruining the ball joints. Then I put the 4runner bottle jack under the lower end of the strut assembly and compressed it up into alignment with the tabs on the lower a-arm. Pushing it up like this tends to force it back too deep toward the inner side - as in the hole doesn't line up because it's too far toward the center line of the vehicle. To remedy this I used a screwdriver behind as a wedge to keep it from sliding inward too far. With this I was able to align the lower end perfectly, and just slide the bolt through.
It's a pretty sketch process and I'd be very careful doing it as you're putting a lot of force on some very questionable bracing points, but it worked. And for $200, it was a half day project (first side took 3 hours, 2nd side maybe 40 minutes total).
I used the Tundra 24-188265 adjustable front shocks. I had read some posters claiming that they wouldn't fit properly with the factory springs. Mine fit the factory springs like they were made for eachother. I don't know why other ones wouldn't fit, but these fit exactly as they should with no binding, no hammering, just fit right into place.
I didn't want a lift, but the possibility is there in the future. These give the option of up to 2.5" ish of lift.
Compared to the factory shock, the distance between lower spring plate and the eye of the lower shock sat between the lowest and first slot up for the snap ring. In the lowest position it would probably be just shorter than factory height. With one level up, mine gained about 1/2" in height. Since I used stock springs, I don't expect any settling.
Ride quality is much better than it was - but it was on 200k mile shocks.
The one big frustration is trying to get the new assembly into the lower a-arm. It's a fight. The Tundra version of the 5100 compresses to the same short length, but has more travel on the extension end - by 2ish inches. What that means is that the uncompressed strut assembly is longer than the one you took out by 2" and when you go to put it back in, it doesn't fit.
I had to use a combination of putting a jack between the upper a-arm and the inner fender pushing down on the top a-arm until I was concerned about ruining the ball joints. Then I put the 4runner bottle jack under the lower end of the strut assembly and compressed it up into alignment with the tabs on the lower a-arm. Pushing it up like this tends to force it back too deep toward the inner side - as in the hole doesn't line up because it's too far toward the center line of the vehicle. To remedy this I used a screwdriver behind as a wedge to keep it from sliding inward too far. With this I was able to align the lower end perfectly, and just slide the bolt through.
It's a pretty sketch process and I'd be very careful doing it as you're putting a lot of force on some very questionable bracing points, but it worked. And for $200, it was a half day project (first side took 3 hours, 2nd side maybe 40 minutes total).
