3b running issues. Fuel issue? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jun 7, 2013
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Location
Melbourne, Australia
Hey guys
So im the proud owner of a 12v 1982 bj42. For the last 4 months or so ive been having a few issues with it. Ive tried multiple times to fox it and everytime i think i have but then 2 weeks later the gremlin is back.
So whats happening is basically it wont idle smoothly. As if its on 3 cylinders and then stall. It doesnt stall everytime but it seems to get worse the longer i drive it for. Sometimes ill get a week before this happens and other times it wont even let me drive it before it dies.
When it does die i pump the hand pump for a bit then start it again. Usually it will run for 10 seconds then die. So i open the bleed valve, theres a hiss of air. Then i bleed out the air which there is a fair bit of then its a 50/50 shot if it will run.
So far things ive done are:
Taken off all injector lines and cleaned where they seat on the injectors.
Removed fuel tank and cleaned
Emptied sedimentor
Changed the fuel filter
Checked the small gauze filter in the fuel pump (it was perfectly clean)
Visually inspected all rubber fuel lines

I havent been able to find any drips or cracks in any lines but im at the point where im thinking of replacing them all and giving it some new clamps aswell.
Im also considering buying a bosch primer and replacing the brass looking one thats on there atm just to eliminate that.

Right now its parked and its running and it revs fine. But once i lift my foot off and the revs drop back to idle it goes back to 3 cylinders and is rough and then over the next 15 or 20 seconds it will come back to its normal smooth idle.
When i drive it at highway speed occasionally it will lose all power and i start to slow down as the revs drop and as i get slower and slower they keep falling and i change down to try and keep them up. Then suddenly itll kick back to life and ill be good to accelerate back up as per normal.
It seems that the longer i drive it it gets worse. I was on the highway for 2 hours once and the losing power thing happened a couple of times but i was trying to nurse her home. As soon as i turned off and slowed down a bit the power left and it slowed down until it stalled. No matter how much bleeding i did i cohldnt get it started so i had it towed. Next morning the mechanic bled it once and it started fine. He didnt know what was wrong with it and seemed to think it was fine.
The primer pump doesnt reach the end of the injector lines (not sure if this is normal). It pumps well out of the bleed valve near the filter but when i close that and crack an injector it pumps but jo matter how long i pump for fuel never comes out the end.

Sorry this post is all over the place. I kept remembering new things as i typed so hopefully it all makes sense. I have searched the forums and some of the stuff i checked was from there but i dont have a computer at the moment so it was a little hard.

Anything you can think of would be a massive help. Im not a mechanical genius so please forgive me if i missed something silly
 
It's got a leak in a line somewhere. Mine was the excess fuel rail return line at the back of the head. There is about three inches of rubber line between both hard lines that had cracked. I installed a crappy glass inline fuel filter on the feed line from the tank to the primer pump to see if there was bubbles coming from that long run back to the tank, dident help in my case... look for the wet spot
 
Thanks alot for that. The inline fuel filter is a good idea. Ill definitely give that a shot. I have one lying a round somewhere anyway so itll fibally be put to good use.
Do you know where i can find out the original diameters of all the different fuel lines? I have the manuals in my draw. I might have to dig around in them
 
Sorry no idea what the original sizes were I used generic 1/4 and 5/16 fuel hose. And I got one of the lines with the banjo fittings rebuilt at a hose shop near me.
 
X2 on air getting into the fuel delivery system somewhere.
 
Something that might be helpful is clear hose. I don't know where you will find it in Australia, but here we can find it at Home Depot, or Lowes. Anyway, a home supply store will more than likely have something. I used some generic tubing on my old GMC 6.2 pickup. After a while the generic plumbing grade stuff will yellow and harden, but last time I checked on the GMC it was still slightly flexible and working.

Put the clear stuff on the feed line just before the IP, and the return line after the IP. This will be a start to locate the air problem. You may have to move the clear lines around some to pin point the air intrusion location. Just make sure that when you replace lines that the clamps are real snug, but not cutting into the tubing.

Don
 
Something that might be helpful is clear hose. I don't know where you will find it in Australia, but here we can find it at Home Depot, or Lowes. Anyway, a home supply store will more than likely have something. I used some generic tubing on my old GMC 6.2 pickup. After a while the generic plumbing grade stuff will yellow and harden, but last time I checked on the GMC it was still slightly flexible and working.

Put the clear stuff on the feed line just before the IP, and the return line after the IP. This will be a start to locate the air problem. You may have to move the clear lines around some to pin point the air intrusion location. Just make sure that when you replace lines that the clamps are real snug, but not cutting into the tubing.

Don

Thanks for that
Would a small clear inline fuel filter work the same way? I have a couple of these around but im not sure how hard it is to spot bubbles so maybe the hose is a better idea
 
It will depend on how far into the filter you can see. The filters I am familiar with are clear enough to work. The only problem I possibly would see is that you are doubling the points where air can intrude at the filter inlet and outlet.

My experience is that small bubbles in the return line from the injectors are not as much of a problem. If bubbles are coming out of the IP they are coming somewhere from inside the IP, or into the IP from the feed side. If you see any bubbles the size of BB's, or anything building up in the feed line, you can tell that you have big problems somewhere upstream. If the bubbles are very small, and few and far between the problem won't show up as easily, and may be very intermittent showing up in the way the motor runs. It is possible for small bubbles to collect in any high spots in the line, or filter, and may not travel on until the air collects into a larger bubble. If bubbles continue to come into the high spot you have a problem somewhere upstream. If bubbles stay in a high spot, no more come in, and the bubbles seem to stay put, you are probably OK.

Actually there are many ways that bubbles can show up and cause problems. Use deductive thinking to decide if the air intrusion will be intermittent or steady.

Don

ps- it is 9:40 PM here, and I'm not a good night owl (I don't know what time difference there is between here and Australia). So, I will check back in the morning to see if this is of any help to you.
 
I once had a diesel Nissan patrol with this issue mate. Turned out that the lift pump was slowly seeping air back into the fuel system and causing same issues you stated: running rough and stalling.

Previous owner installed an electronic pump that I had to switch on for 5 seconds before turning the key, just purged the air out of the system and would start like a dream every time.
I also used to use it to pump diesel out when changing the filter rather than hand pumping it 100 times haha!

not sure how much they are but probably easier option than chasing for months...

Ash
 
Thanks everyone for your help. I replaced all the lines and more than one had splits that i couldnt see until i took them off. So new hoses and clamps have completely cleared up all the issues. Ill take it out for a long drive sometime this week and see how she goes but im feeling confident.
Thanks again
 
I once had a diesel Nissan patrol with this issue mate. Turned out that the lift pump was slowly seeping air back into the fuel system and causing same issues you stated: running rough and stalling.

Previous owner installed an electronic pump that I had to switch on for 5 seconds before turning the key, just purged the air out of the system and would start like a dream every time.
I also used to use it to pump diesel out when changing the filter rather than hand pumping it 100 times haha!

not sure how much they are but probably easier option than chasing for months...

Ash

Thanks ash. Ill keep this in mind if my current solution doesnt hold up
 

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