3B quit on me :(

[Jan-78FJ40]

I was just going to work for a few hours, and had a brilliant idea at a stop light: The previous ownner had foglights on my beloved 1985 BJ70, and the switch was still there. So I flipped it, and clickclick-the engine quits on me.
I can restart it no problem, but it quits right away immedeately. So I towed the poor thing home with the HJ60 (We got some interesting looks, with 2 old, lifted, snorkeled diesel cruisers towing each other ).
Anyway, when I turn the key to ignition, none of the dash lights light up anymore, and no relay clicks. I really did not check anything yet, but the engine fuse is still fine. The fusible link looks ok from the outside, but I suspect that's my problem, right? Must have shorted it out.
I'll have some time to play with it in the afternoon, and will pull the wiring of the old fog lights, and see if the link is fried......

anyone a BJ70 fusible link they would like to sell quickly?

cheers,
thanks,
Jan

 

[brownbear]

Napa sells them to build your own fuseible link.

Do you have power getting to the fuse panel?

Sounds like the problem to me. Start metering your way from the battery to the fuse panel. Have a look at the grounds too. Maybe a post is loose on the battery.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Napa sells them to build your own fuseible link.

Do you have power getting to the fuse panel?

Sounds like the problem to me. Start metering your way from the battery to the fuse panel. Have a look at the grounds too. Maybe a post is loose on the battery.

Thank you-I'll go to Napa then. And start metering. I don't know if I have power at the panel yet. First thing will be to pull the old switch and wiring, since it got to have a short somewhere.

cheers,
Jan

 

[brownbear]

Start simple first.

Posts on battery
fuseible links
Check the ignition key. If you have a FSM in the wiring it shows the route for the power from the battery, thru the key etc.

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

Start simple first.

Posts on battery
fuseible links
Check the ignition key. If you have a FSM in the wiring it shows the route for the power from the battery, thru the key etc.

ok, this is getting more complicated.

the fusible link is fine.
there is power at the fuse panel.
the ignition key control works.
the engine fuse is fine. when the ign ition is turned to start, one side of the engine fuse gets power, as it should.

still nothing on the dash lights up.

the circuits that work without ignition work fine, like headlights.

the radio, which is ignition controlled works fine.


did I kill the fuel control relay? How do I test this, I did not find it in the manual...

when the truck is started, the edic rod moves to the overinjection popsition, but then right away to stop. it does not stay at the run position. if I hold it at 'run' manually, the engine runs fine.

thank you !

Jan

 

[maximBJ70]

maybe check the problem that caused all this in the first place (assuming its not coincidental). After you've checked terminals and other grounds check the light wiring and switch wiring for these "new" lights. Is there a common ground that corroded, did they run this switch through a relay. It may help troubleshoot especially since you have no clue about how the po had set it up.
I had about 15-20 feet (no joke) of extra wiring under my hood because the guy before had hooked up his plow and lights to a 24v bj42. there was a ridiculous amount of work I had to do cutting and splicing relays and connectors to get anything to work.

Good luck

~max

 

[brownbear]

ok, this is getting more complicated.

the fusible link is fine.
there is power at the fuse panel.
the ignition key control works.
the engine fuse is fine. when the ign ition is turned to start, one side of the engine fuse gets power, as it should.

still nothing on the dash lights up.

the circuits that work without ignition work fine, like headlights.

the radio, which is ignition controlled works fine.


did I kill the fuel control relay? How do I test this, I did not find it in the manual...

when the truck is started, the edic rod moves to the overinjection popsition, but then right away to stop. it does not stay at the run position. if I hold it at 'run' manually, the engine runs fine.

thank you !

Jan

It the edic relay is not holding in run I suspect a grounding problem. Or a blown relay inside this box.

Look at all the wiring for these foglights. There must be a tie there.

Since part of the edic works, I can only suspect the po had some wires tied into the power part of the edic(there is a few power lines in). And you shorted out one of them. Possibly a control type wire.

In the wiring diagrams you will see the edic box and edic motor. Start at the edic connector and using your meter check each one for power, and or continuity to ground(when it should not have any) or back to the source ie; the fuse panel or ignition switch. Same thing check those ground wires to ground.

If you need more step by step I can look at my FSM and figure what to test where.

 

[xtremitys]

ha ha ha , thats funny - i had a similar problem ( thats why i am laughing - co-incidence ), my dash lights went like a xmas tree lights , all flashing at once & would blow the fuse and no alternator & no glow plugs ,i ended up getting an Auto-electrician out .

Funnly enough i suspected my voltage regulator , he looked here & he looked there , he thought it was the alternator , so he yanked it out and had a look , then he thought it was a wire going to it , put it back - nope , he was stumped . then he finally checked the voltage regulator and sure enough it had traces of water in it and the circuits were buggered .

Sounds like the fog lamp has been wired into an already existing circuit ( piggybacked off another circuit in the fuse box) , i'd be checking the fuse box to see what else is on that one fuse aswell 1st !

 

[Jan-78FJ40]

It the edic relay is not holding in run I suspect a grounding problem. Or a blown relay inside this box.

Look at all the wiring for these foglights. There must be a tie there.

Since part of the edic works, I can only suspect the po had some wires tied into the power part of the edic(there is a few power lines in). And you shorted out one of them. Possibly a control type wire.

In the wiring diagrams you will see the edic box and edic motor. Start at the edic connector and using your meter check each one for power, and or continuity to ground(when it should not have any) or back to the source ie; the fuse panel or ignition switch. Same thing check those ground wires to ground.

If you need more step by step I can look at my FSM and figure what to test where.

thank you for all the advice!

here's the solution: the foglights were tight into the ignition circuit (the black-white wire that goes to the edic relay and gets power when the key is turned).
it kept shorting it, which in turn kept shorting the engine fuse.

the REAL solution is that I am a fool. the engine fuse was the first I checked, but it looked good. However, I did not check the engine fuse, but the tail light fuse, since the mirror image of the directions on the fuse box cover confused me-I felt pretty stupid.
anyway, the foglight wiring mess has been removed, and the truck runs just fine.

Thanks again, cheers,
Jan

 

[JuttyShabango]

thank you for all the advice!

here's the solution: the foglights were tight into the ignition circuit (the black-white wire that goes to the edic relay and gets power when the key is turned).
it kept shorting it, which in turn kept shorting the engine fuse.

the REAL solution is that I am a fool. the engine fuse was the first I checked, but it looked good. However, I did not check the engine fuse, but the tail light fuse, since the mirror image of the directions on the fuse box cover confused me-I felt pretty stupid.
anyway, the foglight wiring mess has been removed, and the truck runs just fine.

Thanks again, cheers,
Jan

Glad you got it figger'd out Jan. Had something like this happen on my 40 where the previous owner tied the fog lights into the ignition wire and would kill the power to the rig almost immediately when turning them on..Doh!

At least it's warm where you live and tinkerin' on it is no biggie.

 

[crushers]

nice research there Sherlock...
elec is my downside so i couldn't help...sorry.

 

[brownbear]

I have always enjoyed electric problems. I get them on the planes I look after. Think parallel generators needing to be balanced to share load to charge one battery.

My plane I look after(quite normal set up) is Twin engine, so two generators. Each has it's own voltage regulator that controls the output. They charge a common battery......

Two main busbars tied together with each carrying there own load. In emergency they can be split and each engine would just power each side of electricals.

And on planes all the wires are white. Only identification is numbering..

 

[irrops]

I had a similar EDIC issue. I couldn't get it to shut off one rainy day and it was cycling so it couldn't be driven. I didn't want to risk a finger shutting it off manually and I couldn't suffocate the engine. Then it fixed itself. It happened again a few days later so I crawled under the hood and found a 1mm chafe in both the yellow and red wires from the fusable link. There were a couple of strands showing and it was just enough to short it out when it was wet. The chafing occured where the wire was threaded through a harness bracket.

irrops

 

[brownbear]

Good find irrops!!