I got a 1987 BJ75 with the 3B motor, a continuous learning exercise. As it smoked a bit (black), I found advice that the "Full Stop Capsule" screw should be screwed further in to cut down on fuel.
Here I noted that the pump adjusting lever did not even touch the stop screw. There was a spring attached between the lever end next to block, and to the bottom of one of the diesel fuel lines. When this spring was all the way contracted, it did not yet close the gap between lever and stop screw.
So I placed another spring which was able to close the gap and went on a test drive: it smoked like hell, much worse.
After more research I realize now:
- there should be an internal spring which keeps lever touching the stop screw, its absence or
being broken explains that the previous owner had this external spring (?)
- the lever end next to block has a cable attached which when pulled inside the cab, it turns off the
motor by getting the lever to the “stop” position”
- the other lever end has nothing attached to it, but should have the overinjection magnet there
- so the "Full Stop Capsule" screw would set the limit for the lever when starting, i.e. in the
overinjection position (?)
- once the motor is running, the lever would move away somewhat to the “drive” position
So, by not having the overinjection magnet, I seem to have only two options:
- to use the "Full Stop Capsule" screw to define the “drive” position for the lever, such that the
least amount of smoke is produced (?)
- an external spring to keep lever in that position
- the cable to manually cut the flow to stop engine
My question is regarding determining the best position for driving:
- there are 2 drawings in repair manual for B, 3B, 11B etc motors, e.d. 4.5 degrees displaced for
“drive” position: displaced from what line? this is not clear
- can the lever be placed on the axle in only one positions?
without taking the lever off, I cannot tell
- or how would you make the best out of this?
Thanks for any comments.
Here I noted that the pump adjusting lever did not even touch the stop screw. There was a spring attached between the lever end next to block, and to the bottom of one of the diesel fuel lines. When this spring was all the way contracted, it did not yet close the gap between lever and stop screw.
So I placed another spring which was able to close the gap and went on a test drive: it smoked like hell, much worse.
After more research I realize now:
- there should be an internal spring which keeps lever touching the stop screw, its absence or
being broken explains that the previous owner had this external spring (?)
- the lever end next to block has a cable attached which when pulled inside the cab, it turns off the
motor by getting the lever to the “stop” position”
- the other lever end has nothing attached to it, but should have the overinjection magnet there
- so the "Full Stop Capsule" screw would set the limit for the lever when starting, i.e. in the
overinjection position (?)
- once the motor is running, the lever would move away somewhat to the “drive” position
So, by not having the overinjection magnet, I seem to have only two options:
- to use the "Full Stop Capsule" screw to define the “drive” position for the lever, such that the
least amount of smoke is produced (?)
- an external spring to keep lever in that position
- the cable to manually cut the flow to stop engine
My question is regarding determining the best position for driving:
- there are 2 drawings in repair manual for B, 3B, 11B etc motors, e.d. 4.5 degrees displaced for
“drive” position: displaced from what line? this is not clear
- can the lever be placed on the axle in only one positions?
without taking the lever off, I cannot tell
- or how would you make the best out of this?
Thanks for any comments.
