3b glow system bypass

[owenjam]

I have installed a 3B into a US FJ60 body. I was able to get an almost complete BJ60 Canadian wiring harness and have it installed. Only missing components, you guessed it, the glow system, no wires at all and missing one of the glow relays.

Here is the question. I have been told to use a starter solenoid and wire up circuit to stand alone. Heavy duty on/off button in cab, similar to "wilson switch". Connect hot "on" wire to one end of the glow rail, Push button in, sends power through solenoid to glow rail, hold down 10 sec +/-, release and crank. I have purchased 12v replacement glow plugs that match the old original plugs pulled from engine. Will this work, or not??? BTW I live in Alabama and its not really that cold here, so I dont think after glow will be an issue. Please advise. Was able to get the engine to crank today for the first time by running a wire from the battery to glow rail for just a few seconds, started pretty easy. Thanks,

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I'm a little puzzled about the fact that you are using 12v plugs...

Let me see, did the 3B come from a 24v. truck?

A 24v. set up with Superglow would need glowplugs around 12v.

If, on the other hand, you had a 12v Superglow set up, then the plugs would need to be 6v. or so.

Now, since you aren't using the Superglow type of set up, and wish to have manual control over glow, and your rig is basically an FJ60, which I presume is 12v., then 12v. plugs are wrong for your application. It's not that they won't work, but with 12v power to them they will glow anemically at best. A more appropriate choice would be a 10.5v plugs. If by some chance your truck is to be a 24v. rig, then 12v glow plugs would be red hot after 2 seconds and too easy to fry with manual control.

In a warm place like Alabama, the glow cycle is less critical, though I imagine in the middle of winter you have the odd cold morning, no? if the glow system is set up right, it will minimize unburnt fuel going out the tailpipe during start up and the first little while it idles.

 

[owenjam]

The engine is a 12 volt original set up, just like it would have been in the Canadian BJ60. Everything on motor is 12V, starter, alt, etc.. What you mentioned has always been confusing to me, the different volt glow plugs... So you think I have bought the wrong glow plugs??? This is my first Toyota diesel and even after 2 years of "search" and research I am still a liitle confused. What would be the best glow plugs to use for the "Bypass" system I mentioned above, 10.5v???? Thanks!

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I figured you were going 12v. with the electrical system as Canadian BJ60s are all 12v AFAIK.

So, what plugs then? You don't want the plugs specified for the 1983 model year and later trucks as they all used Superglow. You want the plugs for the early year rigs, before 10/1982.

The correct voltage plug for your application is 10.5v.; in the HKT brand of plugs, the part number is PT-145. Here's a link to an injector shop in Australia listing those very plugs right now:

HKT GLOW PLUGS-SET OF 4 TO SUIT LANDCRUISER B/3B - eBay 4x4 Accessories, Exterior, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 11-Dec-08 17:37:55 AEDST)

By the way, if you get yourself a 1981 HJ/BJ60 series ignition barrel, it can be used as a manual glow switch, and you would save yourself a hole in the dash (though it would cost more for the ignition barrel of course). If you go for some sort of momentary heavy duty switch, there's a good one made by Cole-Hersey and available at Napa.

Good luck!

 

[owenjam]

I actually have the original BJ60 ignition switch installed now, it has the "G" right on the switch face!! Not sure how to wire it up, Thanks for the info. So get the 10.5v plugs and wire up as I mentioned with a stand alone solenoid....

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Goodness Henry James lives!?!?!

I appreciate the info, as I need to replace the GPs on Dad's 3B..... At least, I think it's a good idea, and I'm going wilson switch all the way!

Dan

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Hey Dan,

how's it going?

Just keep in mind that the plugs recommended above are for a 12v. 60 series application, non-Superglow. If your dad has a 40 series truck, with in-dash glow controller, then for a 12v. system the plugs would be 8.5volts. Those 8.5's would be correct for your rig as well, IF you are using the glow controller. If no glow controller, then 10.5v.

Hey, getting back to your VERY VERY QUIET HJ45 thread...you mentioned wanting to use 3.7's for the diffs with the h41, for 'fuel economy. I can tell you that my HJ47, with a ton loaded in the back, 265's, 4:11's, and H41, returned 17.5 mp/g driving across the country this summer, driving an average 60 miles per hour. The H41 really makes a lot of sense when you have lots of weight on the truck, and accel. is smooth with the 4:11's and all the extra weight.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

I actually have the original BJ60 ignition switch installed now, it has the "G" right on the switch face!! Not sure how to wire it up, Thanks for the info. So get the 10.5v plugs and wire up as I mentioned with a stand alone solenoid....

Make sure you have the correct ignition switch to go with the barrel, otherwise it won't work properly. I'm not so sure that the 1983 ignition barrel offers true manual operation - I was under the distinct impression that only the first couple of years of BJ60's had that feature...

 

[DanS HJ-45]

Hey Dan,

how's it going?

Just keep in mind that the plugs recommended above are for a 12v. 60 series application, non-Superglow. If your dad has a 40 series truck, with in-dash glow controller, then for a 12v. system the plugs would be 8.5volts. Those 8.5's would be correct for your rig as well, IF you are using the glow controller. If no glow controller, then 10.5v.

Exactly. It's really a FJ-40, so no controller. All about the 10.5V.

Hey, getting back to your VERY VERY QUIET HJ45 thread...you mentioned wanting to use 3.7's for the diffs with the h41, for 'fuel economy. I can tell you that my HJ47, with a ton loaded in the back, 265's, 4:11's, and H41, returned 17.5 mp/g driving across the country this summer, driving an average 60 miles per hour. The H41 really makes a lot of sense when you have lots of weight on the truck, and accel. is smooth with the 4:11's and all the extra weight.

Rub it in why don't you? I figure if I tackle Dad's 40 diesel conversion for a few months that I can stash some cash to get mine done. Besides, this way I can practice the bodywork on Dad's (but don't tell him). I'm still *hoping* to be able to afford an H55f too, but we'll see...

Dan

 

[owenjam]

I am not sure what year model the harness and ignition switch are out of really, they came 2nd hand from a guy if FL that bought them out of Canada some time ago. He ended up rewiring his whole conversion from scratch and did not need the set up.

If I just keep the 12v plugs I already have, what is the worst case scenario?? Will it hurt the motor? Like i mentioned above, engine cranked fine yesterday with about a 10 sec glow cycle, and motor has not been started in years...... Thanks for the help.

 

[owenjam]

Update: Today its 37o F here in Bham, still have the 12v plugs in. Glowed for 10 secs, cranked right up, glowed another 3 sec after cranked and smoothed out fine. Running power to glow rail straight from battery. What are the long term negative effects of using the 12v plugs Vs. 10.5v or 6v??? Will use method described above to hook up glow system, Thanks

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Are you absolutely sure that the plugs you have are rated 12v.? Whats' the brand and part number?

With 12v glow plugs the glow plugs would probably take 30-40 seconds to get fully hot.

With 10.5v plugs, the max heat will be reached after about 15 seconds.

With 6v. plugs, the max heat will be reached in 1.5~2 seconds, and thus the odds of burning them out with a manual system are pretty high.

Living in a warm climate climate will mitigate the effects of using higher voltage plugs.

Here's the key point: voltage is inverse to resistance, as per ohm's law, which you might have come across in a high school class:

V=I/R

The greater the voltage, the lower the resistance, and the lower the voltage the higher the resistance. It is the resistance of the wire coil inside the glow plug that causes it to get hot, similar to the coil wires in a hair dryer. 6v. plugs glow red hot really quick, and 12v. plugs take their sweet time. The 10.5 volt plugs are ideal for your application, though you may well get the truck to start okay in the warm climate in which you live.

 

[owenjam]

Purchased from reputable ebay seller new in the box glow plugs:
HKT NO. PT-145
Ref. No. 19850-68010
Model Toyota CE ZJ 12V
So there is no real danger or negative effects of using these 12v plugs, just a time factor for them to warm up. Thanks so much for your input and advice.

 

[Henry James the 47th]

Okay, that explains it. Owen, HKT PT-145 plugs ARE 10.5v plugs. it will say 10.5v. directly on them. Not sure why you were thinking they are 12v. plugs other than the fact that they are for 12v. systems.

Click on the ebay link I gave in post #4 and you will see for yourself. HKT PT-145 = 10.5v.

No need for you to swap plugs, you have the right ones.

 

[owenjam]

Wow I feel stupid, but like I said, this is my first Toyota diesel. I have experience with all types of cars and trucks and diesel engines but not these 3B's. I have found them to be tricky when you are located in the lower 48. Thanks so much for your help!