3B engine issue. Suggestions? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter CanCrusher
- Start date
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RufusTheDufus
SILVER Star
Those look like the wrong precups.
And the block does look damaged beyond the bore in this photo:
Also, is that the right head for your block? There's an unused water opening in the gasket that doesn't appear in the block in this photo. If you look at the head in the same spot there's a water opening.
And the block does look damaged beyond the bore in this photo:
Also, is that the right head for your block? There's an unused water opening in the gasket that doesn't appear in the block in this photo. If you look at the head in the same spot there's a water opening.
My head and block have the same unused water jacket opening. Might just be a machining/casting access hole. Either way, its normal.
Here is a shot of my head (with proper precup fit), plus my own block.
cruiser_guy
Out of Africa / North Africa
It looks to me like someone cut away the head gasket around the precup areas?!?!
Very True Amaurer..
All sealing head gasket rings are removed from the precups, and all show a leaking of exhaust , from the precup area ..
That head gasket looks weird , Im going out and check my stock .
Yours is saying 13 b and 3b , they could have 13b unused water jacket opening that still fits on a 3B.
Is this a stock head gasket ? i think not .
VT
All sealing head gasket rings are removed from the precups, and all show a leaking of exhaust , from the precup area ..
That head gasket looks weird , Im going out and check my stock .
Yours is saying 13 b and 3b , they could have 13b unused water jacket opening that still fits on a 3B.
Is this a stock head gasket ? i think not .
VT
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Any way to take a few shots of the cyl's 2,3,4 of the head gasket zone where the block and the fire ring are to be squished by the head and the Precups ?
Plus the head and the remaining cups ?
Taping the cups with very small hammer , do they rattle ?
Im asking because the head gasket has been replaced , Amaurer's looks aftermarket also now that i have bought the original OEM all metal ones.
VT
Edit to add. Im also thinking that the precups started to move pounding the head gasket thinner letting the precup loose.
All cyls head gasket areas show exhaust flow from the cup area.
Over heated once and no replacement head bolts ? or just a quicky head gasket job? any history .
I have seen some liners and pre-cups that have a set protrusion so the units are firmly held in place , Perkins Diesels.
VT
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- Thread starter
- #28
In fact the cups do protrude, although cyl #2 is loose. These precups have less than 180K Km in a new Toyota head. Cups were after market. Any experience out there that says I should have gone with Toyota cups as well?
Let me know if you want hard parts...
Might not be "dirt" cheap though
Might not be "dirt" cheap though
CanCrusher, Im looking for parts 4 you also..WET Coast Canukville also.
Got-2-Ask ""180K Km on a new Toyota head ""
Why , what happened back then
VT
Edit , Gota ask another , Someone / gent posted up a picture of a OEM and Aftermarket head gasket , One was tri-metal OEM and non compressible , while the aftermarket style of fiber normally requires a re-torque to make sure all is crushed correctly , and prevent the head from coming loose .
Not until new head gaskets like now to no more gaskets , do we no longer do re-torques. OR TTY bolts also.
Just looking at the way the head came off your lightly crushed head gasket , and with the exhaust showing signs of leakage , also with the pre-cup zone looking like it was hammered thin till nil ..
Not griping @ ya, just a few thoughts , so it don't happen again.
VT
Got-2-Ask ""180K Km on a new Toyota head ""
Why , what happened back then
VT
Edit , Gota ask another , Someone / gent posted up a picture of a OEM and Aftermarket head gasket , One was tri-metal OEM and non compressible , while the aftermarket style of fiber normally requires a re-torque to make sure all is crushed correctly , and prevent the head from coming loose .
Not until new head gaskets like now to no more gaskets , do we no longer do re-torques. OR TTY bolts also.
Just looking at the way the head came off your lightly crushed head gasket , and with the exhaust showing signs of leakage , also with the pre-cup zone looking like it was hammered thin till nil ..
Not griping @ ya, just a few thoughts , so it don't happen again.
VT
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- Thread starter
- #31
Just back off a 1 week road trip since the head came off of the 3B. I have been doing some phone enquiries while travelling and may be closing in on solution for parts or complete engines.
Regarding questions, the head was replaced when the turbo charger was installed. Although it pressure tested OK (cooling system AND the casting once removed) I had been unable to keep coolant in the overflow for some time (very slow drop in level requiring additional coolant after several weeks of running).
I wasn't comfortable adding the boost of the turbo with that in the background so I pulled the head. Only the "typical" surface cracking visible but because of the coolant loss I replaced the casting with an OEM part, used an OEM gasket and valve stem seals and had the valves done at a local machine shop. Protrusion on the precups was within specs (FSM gives 0 to 0.10 mm). Original head bolts were reused as there is no TTY spec on this engine (84 to 86 lb-ft).
Coolant issue was solved and never reappeared. Never any indications of gasket issues right to "Crunch time".
I am back to the shop today to have a closer look at the head and block. I literally just lifted the head out of the engine bay, cleaned up tools, pushed the truck out of the shop and hit the road. I didn't want to be away for a week and not know what I was facing!
I will post again once I have more information. Again, thanks for all of the feedback. Much appreciated.
Regarding questions, the head was replaced when the turbo charger was installed. Although it pressure tested OK (cooling system AND the casting once removed) I had been unable to keep coolant in the overflow for some time (very slow drop in level requiring additional coolant after several weeks of running).
I wasn't comfortable adding the boost of the turbo with that in the background so I pulled the head. Only the "typical" surface cracking visible but because of the coolant loss I replaced the casting with an OEM part, used an OEM gasket and valve stem seals and had the valves done at a local machine shop. Protrusion on the precups was within specs (FSM gives 0 to 0.10 mm). Original head bolts were reused as there is no TTY spec on this engine (84 to 86 lb-ft).
Coolant issue was solved and never reappeared. Never any indications of gasket issues right to "Crunch time".
I am back to the shop today to have a closer look at the head and block. I literally just lifted the head out of the engine bay, cleaned up tools, pushed the truck out of the shop and hit the road. I didn't want to be away for a week and not know what I was facing!
I will post again once I have more information. Again, thanks for all of the feedback. Much appreciated.
Can Crusher , Thanks for the update ..
I kinda know the feeling of "I didn't want to be away for a week and not know what I was facing!"
I wasn't meaning TTY for our 3B's , just extra info on re-torques.
I just re-read the FSM 3B stuff again .
Checking Torques , protrusion etc.
I am a believer of re-torques with this style of head gasket. If like i deal with now engine , Glue instead of gasket , I will wait .5 or after lunch and do a rechecking and a cold re-torque ( if they are NOT TTY).
Our 3B's are of the repairing kind of engine and the BIC Lighter theory was devolved after .
So after a heat cycle of a few runs , I would pop the top and then each bolt , pull / clean / clean hole / light lube and then a torque back to spec.
Im sure if you were to see , the bolt is not in the exact same place.
Seeing that we type similar , (as in info) you must be in the madness of the knuckle dragger's ..
Dang , i just did a yota price out of 11106-58020 cups ,140$ yank-bucks each, what were the aftermarket ones ??
Sorry for your Loss , But the Info your posting is helping me plus a few others also..
VT.
I kinda know the feeling of "I didn't want to be away for a week and not know what I was facing!"
I wasn't meaning TTY for our 3B's , just extra info on re-torques.
I just re-read the FSM 3B stuff again .
Checking Torques , protrusion etc.
I am a believer of re-torques with this style of head gasket. If like i deal with now engine , Glue instead of gasket , I will wait .5 or after lunch and do a rechecking and a cold re-torque ( if they are NOT TTY).
Our 3B's are of the repairing kind of engine and the BIC Lighter theory was devolved after .
So after a heat cycle of a few runs , I would pop the top and then each bolt , pull / clean / clean hole / light lube and then a torque back to spec.
Im sure if you were to see , the bolt is not in the exact same place.
Seeing that we type similar , (as in info) you must be in the madness of the knuckle dragger's
..Dang , i just did a yota price out of 11106-58020 cups ,140$ yank-bucks each, what were the aftermarket ones ??
Sorry for your Loss , But the Info your posting is helping me plus a few others also..
VT.
- Thread starter
- #33
Too late to give up!
After all of this posting I realize I hadn't mentioned the fact that this engine was transplanted into a 1986 Texas FJ60 this past winter. OME suspension ARB front bumper and side rails ARB airlockers X2.
Tranny "howling" on gear downs and running in 5th so I have a rebuilt tranny and transfer case sitting on the floor but the engine "pooched" before I got it installed!
I am in too deep to not do this truck justice! I have put over one million Kms on the 60's since I bought my first one new in 1982 - I, like most out there, love these trucks.
After all of this posting I realize I hadn't mentioned the fact that this engine was transplanted into a 1986 Texas FJ60 this past winter. OME suspension ARB front bumper and side rails ARB airlockers X2.
Tranny "howling" on gear downs and running in 5th so I have a rebuilt tranny and transfer case sitting on the floor but the engine "pooched" before I got it installed!
I am in too deep to not do this truck justice! I have put over one million Kms on the 60's since I bought my first one new in 1982 - I, like most out there, love these trucks.
SWEET CanCrusher.
Almost the same as what I'm trying to build.
On the Island here, there was a few BJ's for sale last week. I was hoping to buy one that was up island from me.. but the sale has been put on hold..
Nice little intercooler , know the temp drops ? I have used a tape / hose clamp quick temp thermistors on pipes and do quick readings.
This is to dio stuff, and it gets removed after a drive dio check .
For lower temp stuff, NOT Cat's etc.
VT
Almost the same as what I'm trying to build.
On the Island here, there was a few BJ's for sale last week. I was hoping to buy one that was up island from me.. but the sale has been put on hold..
Nice little intercooler , know the temp drops ? I have used a tape / hose clamp quick temp thermistors on pipes and do quick readings.
This is to dio stuff, and it gets removed after a drive dio check .
For lower temp stuff, NOT Cat's etc.
VT
