3B air in fuel? FJ60 (1 Viewer)

[R.E.M.]

It seems that I have intermittent air my fuel line. It'll run fine, hesitate once in a while, die then I can prime it back up enough to drive again.

Some PO swapped this engine into an FJ60, so things are not stock. There was a FACET cube style fuel pump mounted under the hood on the firewall passenger side that worked fine until last week. I know that probably put a lot of stress on the pump having to pull that far and that high. ALSO, I put a new custom fuel tank in a few weeks ago mounted behind the rear axle, so I may have allowed some debris from that to enter the line and kill the pump. The pump completely died. Nothing happened when powered.

New off the shelf universal fuel pump mounted out back on the frame rail now. I don't know where stock cruisers with 3Bs have their fuel pumps. Mine now pushes fuel all the way from the rear axle, so it should be pressurized all the way up to the injection pump, right? I have't fully examined for leaks, but it should leaking fuel out, not air in?

My question is: this should be a fairly simple to purge? Would it be best to disconnect the fuel line into the IP and run the new pump? When the engine dies when running, I crack the fuel filter and hand prime until fluid comes out of the filter, then tighten the filter, pump some more and it'll usually start up again and run.

 

[stevebradford]

3b's have their own fuel pumps.
a primer pump here.

And the injection pump here.

No need for an external electric pump.

All you need is a water separator in the line going from the primer pump to the pickup in the tank.

To bleed the air out of the injection system Crack the bleeder screw (circled in yellow) then untwist the pump (circled in red) till it springs up and pump till no more air comes out. Push the pump down and twist closed before closing the bleeder screw. Try that if it's still having problems you are going to have to crack the injector line top nuts all four (circled in green). crank the motor till diesel spills out of all of them, shouldent take long.

If your getting air in you need to check all your fuel hoses for cracks and a tight fit on each connection. the primer pump o-rings can also leak air in.

 

[R.E.M.]

I am familiar with the primer pump and the injection pump. So, you're saying there's no stock fuel pump pushing fuel to the injection pump? That seems odd if it's the case.

 

[stevebradford]

Yep that's how they work.

 

[roscoFJ73]

I know that probably put a lot of stress on the pump having to pull that far and that high.

No, this is normal on most diesel engines. They are usually referred to as feed pumps. The Toyota feed pumps can pump up to 900mls a minute but normally 2/3 - 3/4 is recycled back into the fuel system. The rotary pumps use the extra fuel to keep them cool and send the excess back to the fuel tank. They usually last the life of the fuel pump.
There is no real reason you need an electric pump to get fuel from the tank to the injection pump. Some use them for priming the system

As to your air leak, its most likely a bad hose or fitting. Look closely for splits in the ends of the fuel hose, they often let air in.
Some owners get air from rusty connections on the fuel tank where the fuel pick up goes in.
Its quite normal not to see fuel leaking out until it gets really bad
You can check it really is an air problem by adding a small piece of clear hose to the fuel system.
I would download a 3B manual and follow the instructions for purging the air or someone may have them in their files.

This is a video of mine leaking air from around the fuel fliter.

 

[R.E.M.]

Made some progress here...

I connected a clear hose to the bleed nipple and put the other end in a clear bottle with diesel in it to see what was going on. After a lot of priming I was still only getting air. Then I noticed the fuel return line barely hanging on just underneath. Ok, the source of my air is found I think. Hose looks good, it just wiggled its way down to almost falling off. Reconnected and tightened. Now I get a steady stream of fuel from the bleed nipple.

Still no starting or even trying to fire.

Cracked each of the fuel injectors one at a time starting from the back and cranked a little. Each one leaked fuel like it should.

Still not trying to fire when cranking. I'll keep at it, but now kind of at a loss here.

 

[roscoFJ73]

Your pump is probably full of air

 

[duncanrm]

Still not trying to fire when cranking.

Two things..

1. are you glowing, and is the glow system in good order?
2. Is the EDIC putting the pump into the Overfuel position for starting (fuel control lever all the way back towards the firewall).

Generally with most B and H engines once the fuel filter is bled will happily self prime the pump and lines.

 

[R.E.M.]

ALl good now. Thanks for help.

Turns out my issue was way back at one of the new lines coming out of the tank. A fitting developed a leak that let air in but wouldn’t leak fuel out. Doesn’t make it easy to find!

 

[D0g]

Having to resurrect an old thread since few people are knowledgeable on the subject. I have isolated an air leak on the return hard line to the injection pump of my 3B, is there any way to get to the banjo bolt or fitting that's on the back without taking the pump off?

 

[roscoFJ73]

They are designed to bled on the side of the road at 3am without pulling things apart. Im not sure about the banjo bolt , but if you shouldnt need to. Is your hand primer leaking, even a small amount?

 

[duncanrm]

I'm not aware of any banjo thats in any way shape or form difficult to get to... photo and arrow?

 

[D0g]

They are designed to bled on the side of the road at 3am without pulling things apart. Im not sure about the banjo bolt , but if you shouldnt need to. Is your hand primer leaking, even a small amount?

I'm not aware of any banjo thats in any way shape or form difficult to get to... photo and arrow?

Banj bolt hard line to return rubbr line ,the hard line is cracked and im finding it impossible to remove due to the IP being in the way

 

[D0g]

Normally i find it very hard to criticize Toyota, but this is a really bad design and by no means can you take it off on the side of the road ,without completely destroying it, or removing the injection pump

 

[duncanrm]

That soft line down from the injector return will be hose clamped to that steel tube coming into the side of the banjo.. the whole thing should come out. Dont take the pump off for this. Perhaps there's a bracket or something back there on yours.

 

[roalco]

 

[roalco]

How have you ascertained that it’s that steel pipe that’s cracked/leaking? Can you see it? Its heavy wall steel, silver soldered into the banjo, with no pressure, and well protected and supported, usually any problems are at the rubber flex jumper, perishing, or bad clamps.
Because of the low (virtually nil) pressure, if it indeed a steel pipe section failure you could just buck it off an inch or so away from the banjo and run suitable rubber hose from the injector collector manifold.

 

[D0g]

How have you ascertained that it’s that steel pipe that’s cracked/leaking? Can you see it? Its heavy wall steel, silver soldered into the banjo, with no pressure, and well protected and supported, usually any problems are at the rubber flex jumper, perishing, or bad clamps.
Because of the low (virtually nil) pressure, if it indeed a steel pipe section failure you could just buck it off an inch or so away from the banjo and run suitable rubber hose from the injector collector manifold.

I stuck an air nozzle into the rubber hose and checked for leaks , it was dripping

How have you ascertained that it’s that steel pipe that’s cracked/leaking? Can you see it? Its heavy wall steel, silver soldered into the banjo, with no pressure, and well protected and supported, usually any problems are at the rubber flex jumper, perishing, or bad clamps.
Because of the low (virtually nil) pressure, if it indeed a steel pipe section failure you could just buck it off an inch or so away from the banjo and run suitable rubber hose from the injector collector manifold.

I might end up doing that, i stuck an air nozzle into the rubber return line and pressurized and checked for leaks. I noticed a steady drip coming from the hard line though it's hard to tell from what section as it's not visible on the side i was looking at. I bled the air out again and will recheck to tomorrow to be sure, as it's hard to tell right now since everything in the engine bay is soaked in diesel. I'll buy new clamps for the rubber hose as well and then check the tank on the weekend with my brother pressuring the tank and me checking for a hiss or leak.

 

[roalco]

Use a new piece of jumper hose too, they harden and fail.
Good luck!

 

[D0g]

Use a new piece of jumper hose too, they harden and fail.
Good luck!

Thanks will do