3 link or radias arms?
- Thread starter eatmc55
- Start date
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didn't realise that the red bar was panhard. for what it is worth the radius arm design now becomes a complete waste of time and effort. will be much better off usiing a 3-link for the front and rear.
Why?
You are all over the place.
That Z link is just fine in the front.
You talk like 4 links are a piece of cake but now want a 3 link ( wishbone, true???) which will most likely need a panhard bar as well (if that is the killer I am super confused)...
What are you trying to do?
alllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllllll oooooooooover theeeeee pppppplllllllace......
I want to accomplish front and rear even travel, and better travel than my leaves which I have stated before.
I believe that the 4-links are a piece of cake to build and design. but you can get them terribly wrong and this results in bnding of joints, diff movement, and the pinion rotating through the movement of the diff.
The reason I would now not pursue a radius arm setup is because the radius arms are quite heavy but I would not have needed a panhard rod so there would have been a weight saving there. Now that I have done more rsearcha nd have found that I wiull require a panhard I might as well go with a 'true' 3-link.
Purely because it is simple, easy, light and effective.
I do like the trail-gear 3-link.
You realize that the only reason TG uses a three link on a mini is because the fuel tank gets in the way of a 4 link..
If 4 links are so easy, then do one. You are wasting your time on trying to be "novel".
If 4 links are so easy, then do one. You are wasting your time on trying to be "novel".
yes I am wasting my time.:whoops:
I shuld be out there working on my truck.
and I did realise that TG only made the 3-link kit due to the fuel tank.
But it is a good kit (not that I would buy it, because it is over-priced to get the links sent oer to oz), and it gives one ideas.
weight savings on suspention = bad idea. Make that s*** strong
busta, I am going to make this **** very strong . what I was saying is that uneccessary weight is bad.
you are missing a key dimension that tells me it is strong 
PS building a 4link that works well is not "easy"
I agree fully (earlier I said something about believing that the 4-links are a piece of cake to build and design. but you can get them terribly wrong and this results in bnding of joints, diff movement, and the pinion rotating through the movement of the diff.)
But what do you mean in your other post about this
you are missing a key dimension that tells me it is strong
what am i missing?
wall
2" x @ least .250" wall.
But,
I have done some research and have fund that if I use .500" wall, I can thread the pipe directly (to mount screw my JJ into) instead of welding a time-sert into the .250"" wall. I am a machinist by trade so thread a length of hollow bar is nothing.
Plus if I choose to go with a true 3-link and panhard in a 60-series L/C being relatively 'bare bones' heavy when compared to a mini-truck then using the thicker wall means I will have the sadded strength as well.
But,
I have done some research and have fund that if I use .500" wall, I can thread the pipe directly (to mount screw my JJ into) instead of welding a time-sert into the .250"" wall. I am a machinist by trade so thread a length of hollow bar is nothing.
Plus if I choose to go with a true 3-link and panhard in a 60-series L/C being relatively 'bare bones' heavy when compared to a mini-truck then using the thicker wall means I will have the sadded strength as well.
I am no quite sure why I am going to do a true 3-link in the rear of my truck.
@ th moment I am thinking that because I am going custom and I am only trying to build something reliable and simple I will go with the 3-link. 3-links are appealing because they are simple (and even though that may sound lke an understatement, it is true).
By utilising a panhard it means I can have parrellel upper and lower links. This gives me more room for a chassis tool box like I am already experimenting with:
The parrelel links can also be identical lengths and thus helping in carrying on-trail spares.
Jonathan_Ferguson
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I am no quite sure why I am going to do a true 3-link in the rear of my truck.
@ th moment I am thinking that because I am going custom and I am only trying to build something reliable and simple I will go with the 3-link. 3-links are appealing because they are simple (and even though that may sound lke an understatement, it is true).
By utilising a panhard it means I can have parrellel upper and lower links. This gives me more room for a chassis tool box like I am already experimenting with:
The parrelel links can also be identical lengths and thus helping in carrying on-trail spares.
?????
