Builds 3 days and 3300 miles later (17 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Looks great as usual. A question about your heaters you used in you spray booth. I know they are 8' long. Where did yo get them, what is the wattage, how did you wire them with the thermostat on the outside, etc. I should have the spray booth ready to wire this week so I need to order some heat. Thanks for the help. Mark



Base board heaters should be available at any hardware store, at least they have them up here ;) I would think Home Depot or Lowes should have them also?

Without looking at the box, I think they draw about 7 to 8 amps each. I am running them on 2 seperate breakers (so 2 heaters on each breaker), 2 pole 20 amp breakers. I ran a 6/3 wire off a 50 amp breaker off my main panel to sub panel, there I have the 2 - 20 amp breakers running each set of heaters. I have a thermostat with a remote probe, so the panel, thermostat and a relay box are on the outside of the booth, the probe runs through the wall to the inside to sense the temp.

A cheaper way to do it would be a line voltage thermostat, should be next to the base board heaters when you buy those. Basicly a thermostat that breaks the line voltage and cuts the power to the heaters. You probably will still have to run 2 - 20 amp 2 pole breakers off your main panel, you can use 12/2 wire for that, not 6/3. Be a lot easier and cheaper than what I did.

Matt
 
Base board heaters should be available at any hardware store, at least they have them up here ;) I would think Home Depot or Lowes should have them also?

Without looking at the box, I think they draw about 7 to 8 amps each. I am running them on 2 seperate breakers (so 2 heaters on each breaker), 2 pole 20 amp breakers. I ran a 6/3 wire off a 50 amp breaker off my main panel to sub panel, there I have the 2 - 20 amp breakers running each set of heaters. I have a thermostat with a remote probe, so the panel, thermostat and a relay box are on the outside of the booth, the probe runs through the wall to the inside to sense the temp.

A cheaper way to do it would be a line voltage thermostat, should be next to the base board heaters when you buy those. Basicly a thermostat that breaks the line voltage and cuts the power to the heaters. You probably will still have to run 2 - 20 amp 2 pole breakers off your main panel, you can use 12/2 wire for that, not 6/3. Be a lot easier and cheaper than what I did.

Matt


Thanks for the help.:beer:
 
2.5 on the lpb tonight....didn't get a lot done.

Most of my time was spent getting the grill and the front bib on. Not much to say or take pics of, put the grill on (and that new emblem from Cruiserdan) and then slowly installed the bib and get everything lined up and tightened down. Few other pics of the rubber bumpers I also got from dan. They will probably come off for paint, but best place not to loose them is on the truck right now. Also bolted on the coolant/windshield fluid bracket.

Started installing a couple parts on the windshield frame, hoping to get that all back together by tomorrow and working...except for the windshield.

Matt
MVC-005S.webp
MVC-001S.webp
MVC-003S.webp
 
Last edited:
last 1
MVC-007S.webp
 
Too kewl!
 
1.5 on the lpb tonight.

Not a lot done, pretty much finished assembling the windshield frame (except for the windshield). Got all the linkage's in, motor, covers, rearview mirror, wires ran for dome light and wiper motor, defrost vents and other misc. brackets back in.

Also filled the radiator and engine with coolant, so that's done. Really not much more to do on the cab and front sheet metal right now. Planning on getting the headlight assemblies blasted and re-plated along with a few other parts. Might try to get a little done on the box tomorrow...if not I will for sure be working on it this weekend. This weekend I am going to get the upper cab blown apart along with the doors, get ready for the acid guy.

Matt
MVC-002S.webp
MVC-004S.webp
MVC-005S.webp
 
About 1 hour on the lpb tonight. Had to work tonight, but got home around 9 and had to do a little rush job on the hard top.

Called the acid guy today, he told me to call him in a week and it was a week today. He said he could get to the parts next week and if I wanted to drop all the stuff off on Sunday I could. So, since the glass was still in the hardtop and the glass guy isn't open Saturday.....I stripped the hard top down so I could bring in the rear hardtop piece to the glass guy tomorrow and he could get the windows out. Normally I would just cut the rubber, but I'm thinking I might be able to re-use them so I don't want to hack them up just yet.

Went pretty good, everything came apart nice. Took a few photos of the top cap piece....that's going to need a little love'n. I think it looks worse than it is, but the acid will reveal everything afterwards I think. All my rubber between the hardtop and cap is in really good shape. Should be able to just clean those up and bolt them back on, seat belts and brackets were in excellent shape also.

Saturday I plan on taking apart the side doors and finishing welding the valance on the box. Everything has to be ready to go Sunday to the acid guy.

Matt
MVC-006S.webp
MVC-007S.webp
MVC-008S.webp
 
Last edited:
more
MVC-009S.webp
MVC-010S.webp
MVC-011S.webp
 
last 3
MVC-012S.webp
MVC-013S.webp
MVC-014S.webp
 
I've always taken out my own glass. I use a hair dryer to heat up the rubber and then just fold the inside lip of the rubber in one of the corners and start pushing the glass outward. The glass should all be tempered if it's origninal so it's tough. The corner windows come out easy, the larger flat pieces can be a bit more challenging but not bad.
 
Well done Matt

I watched your previous build and was impressed. When you picked up your new rig a couple hours from my place I couldn't wait to see it happen. You don't dissapoint. Are you going to rebuild or replace the roof? Mine was in worse shape and I repaired it for the short term. Keep the pics coming. Thanx for the inspiration and ideas.
 
Got about 6 hours on the lpb today, nice day today so I spent most of it outside working in the sun.

A good portion of it was spent getting that rear valance welded in. I had to weld up most of the old spot weld holes on the valance and drill new ones about a 1/2" further ahead to catch the bed. Used a couple C clamps to clamp down each hole so it was seated up nice and tight before I welded it. Also took apart the doors...getting everything ready for the acid guy. Few other mics things here and there.

For fun drove out the lpb and took a few glamour shots. Hoping to get everything hauled to the acid guy tomorrow and have it back in a week or so.

Matt
MVC-001S.webp
MVC-002S.webp
MVC-013S.webp
 
more
MVC-014S.webp
MVC-005S.webp
MVC-012S.webp
 
last 3
MVC-007S.webp
MVC-008S.webp
MVC-009S.webp
 
Nice build. Do you have ventilation in your shop to weld? ? ?


I could weld in the paint booth, and do weld in there sometimes, that ventilates very well.

I just like being outside and it was a nice day.

Matt
 
Last edited:
Thanks. I have to do some welding on my Cruiser. It looks like a warm day there. So do you weld when it is say at least 10 above? (i am from Alaska). We have a warm time right now about 19 degress, so is this fine temp to weld at?

How long do you run your extension cord? Is there a limit to how long it should be??

Thanks again.
 
Thanks. I have to do some welding on my Cruiser. It looks like a warm day there. So do you weld when it is say at least 10 above? (i am from Alaska). We have a warm time right now about 19 degress, so is this fine temp to weld at?

How long do you run your extension cord? Is there a limit to how long it should be??

Thanks again.


Today was about 38 F above, sunny and no wind, so a very warm day for this time of year in Northern, MN. You could weld outside at 10 above or below zero for that matter...but the question is, can you handle it? At 10 above I would be in the paint booth :princess:

I had a 50ft extension cord, I think it was a 14 ga. or 16, not sure...nothing that heavy. 110v welders don't draw to much.

Hope this helps, Matt
 
makes me feel bad that all i did was get the new tank in the raffle rig and get all the old greasy front end parts that have been in the solvent tank for the last few weeks cleaned up and out. :whoops:

coming along great...can't wait to see it finished.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom