2UZ interchange...

[HypocriticalHippie]

Short story long, I inherited an overheated 100. One of the cylinders has zero compression, the others vary from 160-190 (cold engine, throttle open, battery fairly strong). Timing is spot on. I'm pulling the heads to asses damage, but am thinking of dropping in another engine to speed things up.

I know that the Tundra engines are made here and there are some differences, but they are easier to find. Are the Tundra and UZJ engines interchangeable with minor external parts swapping or no?

I've searched and the few threads I found said that a Tundra, Sequoia, and 4Runner are the same engines minus sone small differences, but want to clarify just in case.

Thanks in advance.

Edit: Found a cylinder with a stuck valve. How tolerant is the block of overheating? Is this a case of slap fresh heads on and go? Or is it better to throw a used engine in there?

 

[HypocriticalHippie]

Let me ask it this way...

This is the second engine for this Cruiser. The PO had a used replacement put in after the original quit. The replacement was put in three years ago and has unknown mileage.

The truck had 180K on it and is in good shape. Compression numbers are mostly good and leak down is very good. At this mileage, would the common consensus be to just replace the heads, or find a good used motor with 80k less miles and drop that in?

I will be doing the labor...

 

[Keowee]

Search for engine replacement by ponytl. He has a thread on it. And search head replacement by offr0adlim0.

 

[lead62]

Too much potential for failure on old overheated engine unless you do a complete rebuild. Get a lower mile one and go through it.

 

[ponytl]

These engines (4.7) should be good for 400k easy with just basic oil changes and keeping them cool and breathing clean filtered air... you can search my threads on this I have done it 2x on these trucks... any engine around 100k should be good... I believe all the 4.7s to be the same... I don't think it matters what the donor is... what i did was deal with a good salvage yard that provided the Vin of the donor and did the search on it's history... I also purchased the engines with the wiring harness, only thing they removed was the ac and alt. & ps pump. you don't need this but some parts come in handy... off ebay expect to pay around $1000 for the engine delivered... to the waterpump & timing belt while it's on the engine stand and you should be good to go.... on a scale of 1-10 with proper tools and time... it's a 6 at best...
good luck...

 

[HypocriticalHippie]

Thanks guys, that's the kind of info that I was looking for. Im following my gut and going with a used engine from a wrecker. There are plenty around here in the low 100k range from $700-1000. The old engine has a fresh timing assembly and water pump, so I already have those bits. I'll order up some new gaskets and gage a go at it. Radiator, hoses, and tees are all new, as well.

Any advice on the give pull? Pretty straight forward? Easiest to disconnect the harness from inside the truck? Pull it sans transmission?

Thanks for your advice, everyone.

 

[lead62]

Look at Slee's website to see what year engines came with vvti etc for compatibility. It should be under their tech section for buying used 100s. Did the engine overheat with the current water pump? Might want to get another water pump.

 

[Keowee]

Also a good time to replace the heater hose tee's at the back of the engine. If they break you could fry the next one.

 

[ponytl]

Thanks guys, that's the kind of info that I was looking for. Im following my gut and going with a used engine from a wrecker. There are plenty around here in the low 100k range from $700-1000. The old engine has a fresh timing assembly and water pump, so I already have those bits. I'll order up some new gaskets and gage a go at it. Radiator, hoses, and tees are all new, as well.

Any advice on the give pull? Pretty straight forward? Easiest to disconnect the harness from inside the truck? Pull it sans transmission?

Thanks for your advice, everyone.

leave the trans... pull the engine with the harness from behind the glove box... and reinstall with the harness all hooked up to the new engine... you will have to remove the intake manifold to remove the harness and install the harness... if you have the room... leave the hood on just remove the strut/shocks and tie it back to the roof rack... the transmission lines that bolt to the pass side of the block are a beach... for me it was much easier to disconnect the ac lines at the compressor and remove and install the compressor with the engine and just recharge it... (one of those large cans of 134 is all it takes to recharge) but you need to pull a vac, just tie the PS pump off to the side... good time to replace the steering rack bushings (almost a must do) some work you have to do from above and some from below... I did it with the truck on ramps and used a forklift for the remove and install (working alone) very few engine lifts will lift high enough with the truck on ramps... you will reuse your exhaust manifolds, your oil pan, your oil filter housing... maybe your throttle body... all the bits that mount / hold your hoses lines and wires.... engine cover.... might want to read my old posts on this as i'm going from memory
good luck
p

 

[2001LC]

Short story long, I inherited an overheated 100. One of the cylinders has zero compression, the others vary from 160-190 (cold engine, throttle open, battery fairly strong). Timing is spot on. I'm pulling the heads to asses damage, but am thinking of dropping in another engine to speed things up.

I know that the Tundra engines are made here and there are some differences, but they are easier to find. Are the Tundra and UZJ engines interchangeable with minor external parts swapping or no?

I've searched and the few threads I found said that a Tundra, Sequoia, and 4Runner are the same engines minus sone small differences, but want to clarify just in case.

Thanks in advance.

Edit: Found a cylinder with a stuck valve. How tolerant is the block of overheating? Is this a case of slap fresh heads on and go? Or is it better to throw a used engine in there?

I've heard of a number of tricks to get stuck valve working. One was a rope pushed in through spark plug hole. Then turn crank by hand pushing up valve. Get it running then check oil pressure, and compression & leak down. Good luck....

 

[2001LC]

These rig are meant to be driven. Sitting for long periods can cause a number of workable issues, such as stuck valves.

 

[Julian Stead]

They used to use coca cola to unstick piston rings, just leave it in the cylinders for a few days and your good to go..

 

[HypocriticalHippie]

Excellent responses. Thank you!

Found a few Sequoia/Tundra engines near me. Other than not having vvti, are there any differences in the harnesses?

Also, is it easier to pull the exhaust manifolds with the engine or pull them off the head?

I hope to make a go of it this weekend.

 

[HypocriticalHippie]

Never mind n the exhaust, they're off.

 

[jLB]

Edit: Found a cylinder with a stuck valve. How tolerant is the block of overheating? Is this a case of slap fresh heads on and go? Or is it better to throw a used engine in there?

There might be another option:

Just got a 100, trying to diagnose the issue

 

[ponytl]

IF you replace the engine... you will reuse YOUR harness, your exhaust, your motor mounts, your oilpan, your oil filter mount, maybe your throttle body..., you have to pull the intake to remove and replace the harness,

ALL this should be switched to the new engine BEFORE the install... I'm old and slow and work alone and clean a lot of parts replace things I shouldn't maybe... and this is about 12hrs labor for me... optional parts to have on hand heater T's, steering rack bushings, fuel filter, serp belt, hoses, fan bracket, and the normal oil filter, coolant, ect... also double check your radiator and make sure it was not the cause of the original failure... they usually fail at the tank to fins crimp

 

[HypocriticalHippie]

Understood and have the parts on order. Old engine had new timing belt, water pump, radiator so all of those will be reused. Looks like the tees or hoses were leaking at some point, so all of those are being replaced including the pair underneath. Picking up my engine today or tomorrow morning, hopefully.

 

[HypocriticalHippie]

Engine all stripped and ready to come out. Here's the $64K question...

Where are the lifting points on the engine?

Do I need to fab up a plate to tie the intake port areas together and lift from there?

 

[ponytl]

you should have a factory "hook" at 2 corners of the manifold... I did use one of those hand crank balance bars to get the "tilt" right when pulling it out and getting it in.... you did remove the small flex cover plate and remove the flex plate to converter bolts didn't you?
(when installing i kept a breaker bar on the front crank pulley bolt to turn the crank to get the bolt holes lined up 22mm I think)

and if you are going to put it on an engine stand you will need 4 bolts about an inch longer than the bolts you removed from the engine to trans... stock ones are not long enough... the engine will try to hang up on the metal trans to cooler lines on the pass. side... i disconnected the fuel line at the fuel filter ...

make sure you mark your engine mounts for side and which way is UP they will mount upside down... ask how I know... a couple of the bolts are a beach to get to...

when pulling/installing the wire harness to the engine... it's a little tricky around and down to the a/c and the oil pressure sending unit...

yes there are several grey connectors on the wire harness that go to NOTHING

think I pulled the trans dip stick to get it out of the way...

the exhaust manifold studs are the same as the manifold to exhaust flange pipe bolts... so if your flange bolts are screwed up you can pull some of your old manifold stud to use...

the stock factory exhaust gaskets and manifold gaskets are better than anything you can purchase and can be reused...

you are welcome to my cell number if you message me if you run into any trouble