2h hj60 cooling issue. (1 Viewer)

[sodafeld1]

I reckon the aussie engine guard watch dog is a most worthwhile investment for any older car. Bolts straight to the head and bang on accurate temp in digital. The actual temp of head. First start up for the day, actual ambient temp.
(It also gives me an indication of how much I need to glow on my wilson switch, along with cig lighter digital volt meter how much to glow. If over 45c, I don't glow, even 38c is ok.)

The factory gauges are not the best over the years. Especially fuel and temp which share the same earth. Before cleaning them, once I had temp go up and fuel go down on the factory gauges. I prefer the other way around, temp goes down and fuel goes up whilst driving.

So don't throw the baby out with the bath water yet. But you kind of know if you are hot ish.., in the summertime

 

[sodafeld1]

I reckon the aussie engine guard watch dog is a most worthwhile investment for any older car. Bolts straight to the head and bang on accurate temp in digital. The actual temp of head. First start up for the day, actual ambient temp.
(It also gives me an indication of how much I need to glow on my wilson switch, along with cig lighter digital volt meter how much to glow. If over 45c, I don't glow, even 38c is ok.)

The factory gauges are not the best over the years. Especially fuel and temp which share the same earth. Before cleaning them, once I had temp go up and fuel go down on the factory gauges. I prefer the other way around, temp goes down and fuel goes up whilst driving.

So don't throw the baby out with the bath water yet. But you kind of know if you are hot ish.., in the summertime

any bubbles with your rad cap off whilst running?

 

[jas]

Before you go jumping in big time, I'd actually be checking a few other things.

1). Go over all your engine and body earthing, you might have a simple case of incorrect indication. Given you went 8kms your oil certainly wouldn't have been normal hot, but that pressure reading looks a bit high if that is at idle and the oil is fairly warm. So...given the temp is reading a bit high as well, perhaps your earth is a bit dud somewhere.

2). Do some direct radiator/block/thermostat housing measurements using an infrared to cross check point 1.

3). Did the new thermostat have a bleed? If not, you can get into an airlock situation which can take some time to clear out. I haven't had this happen on my girl, but I ensure I use a stat with bleed. Some other vehicles where the bleed was not available, they were a complete PITA to get the stat opened enough to flush trapped air and get ALL the air out and the radiator topped up enough during the process...... and it is very easy to get the engine too hot because often the sensors are in the stat housing area and one can wonder why the temp is not rising as expected. External heat to the housing was initially needed and even then it doesn't work quickly because you're mostly relying on air transfer of heat, not direct water contact. Given you have a reading I don't think this is happening, but it's a thought.

4). The other possiblity is that with all your work, you have increased the amount of muck in the bottom of the radiator/cores, which is now impeding flow even more.

My girl has now done well over 100K kms with the turbo without issue, but I treat her nicely. I don't have an EGT system, but I know the motor well and adjust speed and throttle to load and length of time under boost etc. I do have an oil temp gauge which keeps me informed as well. If I'm doing prolonged heavy towing we might only sit on 85-90km/hr, if that, running at around 4-5 psi boost and oil around 110°C. The upshot is my donk has never failed me, whereas a neighbour with a 12HT who runs..sorry..flogs the motor endlessly on high boost towing stuff (because they have to/want to do the speed limit) has blown it up twice over far less kms. I never use high boost for more than a few minutes at most. Theirs lets me apply my favourite acronym I made up years ago... a very bad case of ZMS....Zero Mechanical Sympathy.

cheers, Honka

thank you very much for these,i was curious why so quick etc,
appreciate it! i will look into what you said.

 

[jas]

I reckon the aussie engine guard watch dog is a most worthwhile investment for any older car. Bolts straight to the head and bang on accurate temp in digital. The actual temp of head. First start up for the day, actual ambient temp.
(It also gives me an indication of how much I need to glow on my wilson switch, along with cig lighter digital volt meter how much to glow. If over 45c, I don't glow, even 38c is ok.)

The factory gauges are not the best over the years. Especially fuel and temp which share the same earth. Before cleaning them, once I had temp go up and fuel go down on the factory gauges. I prefer the other way around, temp goes down and fuel goes up whilst driving.

So don't throw the baby out with the bath water yet. But you kind of know if you are hot ish.., in the summertime

thanks!i will look into that for sure.

 

[jas]

any bubbles with your rad cap off whilst running?

not after letting it run after fill up,it just sits level.
what would that mean?

 

[sodafeld1]

not after letting it run after fill up,it just sits level.
what would that mean?

a good sign that combustion gasses from a crack in the head is not entering coolant. No guarantee but a good sign. Did your fuel gauge move dramatically as your temp gauge went up?

 

[jas]

a good sign that combustion gasses from a crack in the head is not entering coolant. No guarantee but a good sign. Did your fuel gauge move dramatically as your temp gauge went up

 

[jas]

ok thanks,
it moved up steady,not jerky.

 

[jas]

so went for a drive last night,got it up to 3/4 hot quickly again,then when got home the bottom rad hose was cold/warm not hot like the top.
so about to get head check then this,so i am like air lock or ?....dunno

 

[duncanrm]

so went for a drive last night,got it up to 3/4 hot quickly again,then when got home the bottom rad hose was cold/warm not hot like the top.
so about to get head check then this,so i am like air lock or ?....dunno

• I re-read the thread. It really does NOT sound like a Head issue.
• I note you said you had ordered a new viscous fan hub.. did that go on, if so what brand was it? The ONLY brand hub to trust is Aisin, aftermarket cheap ones are very hit and miss.
• No shroud fitted is bad (noting that you said it had been that way for years without issue though)
• Have you reinstalled the thermostat yet? If you've got the housing open again just replace it with an OEM one
• You mentioned you unplugged a block water outlet when you did the heater core - based on that, it would really be advisable to have the radiator seen to - if its still externally in good condition at least have someone remove the tanks and rod out all the tubes
• You appear to have covered everything else off as best I can tell - perhaps you can re-summarise what you have done for completeness.

 

[jas]

hey!,so i got new water pump,
new thermostat
new thermostat housing temp sendor
and new viscous fan,
mate at work is thinking either air lock or rad needs attending too.but yeh.
could be anything atm,it still has power and runs well other than heat.
was thinking to get temp gauge and fit one to see.mite take the rad to a shop,have one down the road.
appreciate the reply!

oh,and getting a shroud soon,found a guy wrecking a 60,just a mission to get it.but will!

 

[duncanrm]

hey!,so i got new water pump,
new thermostat
new thermostat housing temp sendor
and new viscous fan,
mate at work is thinking either air lock or rad needs attending too.but yeh.
could be anything atm,it still has power and runs well other than heat.
was thinking to get temp gauge and fit one to see.mite take the rad to a shop,have one down the road.
appreciate the reply!

oh,and getting a shroud soon,found a guy wrecking a 60,just a mission to get it.but will!

Air lock is unlikely on a 2H.. after a short drive where it has come up to temperature if you still have a full radiator the job is done.

Radiator is looking likely based on everything I have read - good work on finding a shroud.

 

[jas]

soo,cause im a dumbass,by accident while changing and checking cooling/heater hoses,while on my bull bar and half on the engine etc...i put my hand on this this and snapped it..
i think someone said its a coolant gauge or something(help me out with the real name as i don`t know)i think there pricey but eh.
it still runs,still getting hot.
I haven`t had time on it as i have been working alot so i`ll get there eventually.

 

[duncanrm]

This is the coolant temperature sensor for Superglow. If you've got a Wilson Switch then no big deal, its no longer needed.

 

[jas]

This is the coolant temperature sensor for Superglow. If you've got a Wilson Switch then no big deal, its no longer needed.

ok,thanks mate!i do have one.interesting.

 

[jas]

Sooo, Had TK head check today,and it passed........
So he suggests because of alot of rust particles in radiator to get that properly checked.
The guy who checked it recently didn`t do rods etc.
I asked the mechanic if oil and flow was fine he said yes,and i asked what if radiator is ok?- he said there has to be a block somewhere.
He said it is easy for him to find a blockage with a Thermal Imaging Device/camera if needed.
edit/he also said be good idea to use a good chemical flush?whats a good chemical flush for 2h?
Good that head is not an issue but the mission still goes on!

 

[jas]

I am leaning now towards instrument failure behind dash or something,due to ringing this OG radiator bloke and he talked me through alot of things,and said if it was getting that hot or more then you would have run off in the over flow..and it does not do that at all.
Suggested build up on some sensor or maybe the dash temperature relay or?.
He said he can check the flow on the radiator but doesnt sound like it.