2H centrifugal oil filter

[82cruiser]

Hi all,

Working through some oil leaks on the 2H. One leak is coming from the base of the centrifugal oil filter located directly above the standard oil filter. I've searched and cannot seem to find a source or number for this gasket. Should I just make one or can they be had from Toyota?

Another leak was coming from the oil pan drain plug. The threads on the oil pan have a rectangular section at the bottom where there are no threads. It looks oem but I'm not sure why this hole in the threads exists. The outer skin of the oil pan conforms to the area where the threads are missing creating a slight gap and thus, a leak. I used a punch from the inside to push the oil pan skin out and then hammered it flat. Now the drain plug mates up flush and no more leak. I feel like this will happen again over time. What is a permanent fix for this? Should I spot weld the gap in the threads or does that serve some purpose?

TIA

 

[Big Blue 84BJ60]

for the centrifugal oil filter try making your own gasket with some good old cork rubber gasket material this stuff is cheap(price wise) , works great, comes in a long roll and can be used for just aboot anything

as for the were oil pan threads are i think it should be round not square but i do not have a 2h in my truck hope this helps some

 

[gbcruiser]

Centrifugal what now? I have a 2H...any pics of this centrifugal oil filter?

 

[Tapage]

Centrifugal what now? I have a 2H...any pics of this centrifugal oil filter?

Common in pre 85 2H engines .. and usual when it fails here = out !

 

[Freewheel]

pics x2

 

[bigbrowndog]

The gaskets for the filter and filter head still are available in Oz anyway. ;p The filters are hard to get and they are very good. The filter was fitted to the early 2H, also were still in Dyna trucks after they were dropped from the cruiser. LOL I was promised one free from one of the N.A guys and offered him a HJ47 diesel tacho for it but nothing eventuated, seems he got enough 2H rebuild information then forgot. Owners of cruisers complained about the extra 1/2 hour servicing cost because of these filters and oil was very cheap then. Apart from the fact they were prone to leak a bit they got rid of a fair bit of soot and gunk from the oil.. cheers

 

[82cruiser]

Thanks for the pic bigbrowndog. Here's one with the cover off.

Here's a couple pics of the oil pan drain plug threads after the fix. The oil pan skin deforms slightly and gets pushed into the hole in the threads when the drain plug is tightened. Have others had this problem and if so, any suggestions for a permanent fix?

 

[82cruiser]

bigbrowndog - The gaskets for the filter and filter head still are available in Oz anyway. ;p The filters are hard to get and they are very good.

bigbrowndog - It sounds as though it's worth fixing the filter. Do you know of any sources for the gaskets and filter head?

In post #7 - first pic - the top of the cover has hairline cracks and appears to need replacing. Any idea where to get parts?

Any thoughts on repairing this filter are appreciated.

Thank you!

 

[amaurer]

Thanks for the pic bigbrowndog. Here's one with the cover off.

Here's a couple pics of the oil pan drain plug threads after the fix. The oil pan skin deforms slightly and gets pushed into the hole in the threads when the drain plug is tightened. Have others had this problem and if so, any suggestions for a permanent fix?

I have the EXACT same problem on my 3B.

Siliconed it.

 

[marting]

Hmmm... I have never seen this thing on any 2H i have had the pleasure of looking at.. Is it possible they were installed only for some markets? If so, why?

 

[dingbatt]

I'm not sure if you've managed to fix your centrifugal oil filter leak, but I had the exact same problem on mine. Quite a bad leak. I just pulled the filter apart, and found that the o-ring seal that was on there had become distorted and had flattened, therefore no longer making a seal along the perimeter of the cylindrical housing. I got a replacement o-ring seal from Toyota, but if you can't find one, you will definitely be able to get an apropriately sized one from either Parker or a local hydraulic seal specialist, as o-rings are the most common sealer used in hydraulic systems. You will need to measure the o-ring seat dimensions and housing diameter to get the right seal though.

These things work on the principal that the denser particulates are thrown to the perimeter of the rotor where they become stuck, and the less dense oil is allowed to continue flowing through the system. They work great - you can tell they do by the amount of crap you remove when cleaning them!

Here's a photo of the filter dissassembled:



Here's a photo of the old, flattened o-ring (left) and new one (right):


Apply some o-ring lube to help prolong the life of the o-ring and also to maintain a good seal:

 

[dingbatt]

82cruiser - I think the hole in the thread of the sump for the plug is to allow the oil to drain properly, otherwise you would leave a layer of oil in the bottom of the pan, which would contain all the crap you are trying to remove when doing an oil change!

Are these the "hairline cracks" of which you speak - because they are not cracks, I'm pretty sure they are impressions of the imperfections of the casting mould.



Cheers,

Matt

 

[dukface]

Not resurrect an old thread, but I'm having a hell of a time getting the centrifugal filter off to clean and replace the seals. Seems the starter motor is up against the band and I can't get the cover off. Current thoughts are to loosen the bolts on the starter so that is sags a little and drops away, or get the tin snips and cut the band off.