2H 24V Alternator/vacuum pump sources

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Vacuum Pump Rebuild

As asked for:
This is the rebuild of the vacuum pump on my '80 HJ47 with over 400K miles on it.
1 - Remove Unit and find place to work on it. (Kitchen table works well until dinner time)
2 - Remove 3 bolts - They are long and go through all 3 segments on the pump.
3 - Remove first section or entire pump, depending on what comes loose when you tap on it.
4 - Remove 4 vanes - Fingernails work good. Note the difference between the old and the new.
5 - Remove impeller - Might need needle nose pliers and jiggle it, oil holds a suction.
6 - Remove section number 2 - Gently tap.
7 - Remove section 3.
8 - Remove seal.
9 - Clean Clean Clean
Reverse for assembly. Make sure to lube the o-rings and seal before assembly.

Specter Off-Road, Inc. Land Cruiser Parts and Accessories was able to special order all the parts. Took about 2 weeks to get all of them in and the cost was about $110.00

The results: No more whistling noise, lots more vacuum, which allowed me to find more leaks elsewhere in the system.

Let me know if you have any questions.
TimK...
HJ47 Vacuum Pump Repair 001 600x352.webp
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Vacuum Pump Rebuild 2

Vacuum Pump Rebuild
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Vacuum Pump Rebuild 3

Vacuum Pump Rebuild
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Tkorade--just thinking about you yesterday and was wondering if you had gotten those parts or not and how things were going--GREAT write-up and photos--thanks.

First question: Why did you do this--low vacuum on the brakes or leaking oil from unit or just being cautious with all the miles on the rig?

Great to see the photos as compared to the manual's drawings I have. I've worked on commercial vacuum pumps and they look almost identical, with carbon vanes.

I will check with SOR and maybe just get my ALT rebuilt--talking with Stone in
Canada, he was able to get his ALT rebuilt and boosted to 60amps, which is double the factory stock numbers.

Last question: did you notice any difference in your vacuum system after the rebuild?

Thanks again for the effort and follow-through!!
LCDiesel60
Oregon
 
Thanks, First reason for the rebuild was a high pitched whistle you could hear 10 feet away when the truck was running. The mileage and I would get 2 successive pumps of the brake pedal before the light would come on was another factor. Now the initial draw of vacuum on start up is about 3X faster and I can get 4 successive pumps before the light. I was getting a max of 21 inches before and It pulls 23 now. I did find a leak on the vacuum accumulator after the rebuild. Some dirt was sitting on the seam of the tank and rusted a thin line through. I pulled the tank and removed all the fittings. Then I rinsed the tank with degreaser, then phosphoric acid , after that dried I then put some Rust-oleum Rusty Metal Primer in the tank and swished it around. Poured out the excess and let it dry. Used epoxy on the outside then painted and reinstalled it.
 
Thanks, First reason for the rebuild was a high pitched whistle you could hear 10 feet away when the truck was running. The mileage and I would get 2 successive pumps of the brake pedal before the light would come on was another factor. Now the initial draw of vacuum on start up is about 3X faster and I can get 4 successive pumps before the light. I was getting a max of 21 inches before and It pulls 23 now. I did find a leak on the vacuum accumulator after the rebuild. Some dirt was sitting on the seam of the tank and rusted a thin line through. I pulled the tank and removed all the fittings. Then I rinsed the tank with degreaser, then phosphoric acid , after that dried I then put some Rust-oleum Rusty Metal Primer in the tank and swished it around. Poured out the excess and let it dry. Used epoxy on the outside then painted and reinstalled it.


Good effort Mate,:cool: Maybe you should put this in a separate thread so anyone searching can find it easy for a guide to rebuild their pump.:idea: Sometimes using "search" it is hard to locate what you want,[OK for me anyway:o]
 
Tkorade--BBDog is right on--pretty smart 'fixin'--sound like a handy guy to have around when a problem needs to be solved with little $! I agreed with BBD about a thread since these pumps are pretty rare, more guys will eventually need to know how to service them and where parts can be found.

Funny--I called SOR yesterday and they had no clue about your Vac-pump parts order and showed nothing in their system except for O-rings (2)--and no parts number to even place the order...by chance would you have a copy of the shipping ticket or receipt you could fax (503-632-6761) or e-mail? They seemed like they didn't know what to do about it..--you said they came from AUS--maybe BBD has a lead on a source there?

Well--good to know you are now 'safe' on the road with good brake boost!
LCDiesel60
 
Tkorade--someones' up really early!
Thanks for the information:
?--So, if I'm reading the diagram right; 2 larger o-rings, 1-smaller o-ring and one end seal (alt side), plus vanes--IS that what you replaced on yours?
?--Is part #120 an end bearing or seal or ?

I'll be taking mine down in about a month, so want to get all the key parts ahead of time.
?--Did you try to get o-rings from a hydraulic or auto shop first by just showing them the old ones and asking them to match them up..?

Well-thanks again!!
Glad you are prepping a 'tech page' for this work you have done!!

LCDiesel60
 
I just replaced the vanes, 2 larger o-rings, and the lip seal. 120 is the lip seal. The old o-rings were to deformed to get a good reading off of and I did not feel like doing the math to calculate the size based upon the grove for the compression. Just make sure to confirm the years that apply to the parts. You can get that by going to SOR's web site and searching on the part number.
 
That is a good repair bit but for the lazy call John at RADD on Vancouver Island or Cruiser Dan in ABQ or your local Toyota Materials Handling outlet. All Toyo lifts with 2H engines were 24v. If anyone has a new alt it would be there.
Jeff
 
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