2F with F parts

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Joined
Oct 8, 2006
Threads
38
Messages
314
Location
Lafayette, Colorado
I've rebuilt a '75 2F block and cylinder head for my '72 FJ40 and I have a few questions about what parts from my F motor will fit onto the 2F.

- Should I go with the 2F intake and exhaust manifolds or use the F manifolds? From what I've read the 2F manifolds are the way to go but, ...
- Will the carb from the F work well and fit onto the 2F intake?
- Will the aircleaner assembly from my F fit onto the 2F intake and F carb set-up?
- Will the stock F exhaust down-pipe match up with the 2F exhaust manifold?

I'm sure I'll have more questions like this as I assemble other parts like the waterpump, fan, alternator, fuel pump, distributor, etc. but this will at least get me headed in the right direction.
:hhmm:+:beer:
 
i have a 2f in my 70 and 1 of my 69s and i used all the f parts on them so they look original.the exhaust manifolds i had from 2fs required to much plugging and have a different style exhaust. good luck
 
parts

If your going for performance and not worried about staying stock/ restored you might want to go for a header. I put a Downey header and a DUI ignition on mine and there was a big power increase. I spent way too much on the Downey header. I think you can get one for about $150 from JT outfitters.
 
You may want to stay with your manifolds. I put a 2F carb, valve cover and aircleaner on my 73 1F. The aircleaner would not bolt on with the original brackets. To hit the carb I had to drop it down and towards the passenger side. I haven't gotten to ever compare, but my conclusion was that a 2F intake must sit further from the engine, and slightly higher, in relation to the position of the carb.

Your carb should bolt right up. But the F cleaner may not hit the top properly. I thing front to rear would be correct, and the further away from the engine may be remedied just by rotating the cap of the air cleaner. But you will probably have to cut off the stock little studs on the air clenaer can, and either reweld, or use bolts to bolt the can to the bracket on the head. Keep in mind it is hard to convert between the two, as the bracket that holds the F aircleaner is bolted under the head bolts, you just can't take out the two bolts whenever you want without the possiblity of compromising the gasket.

As for the exhaust, the 2F seems to seal better where the down pipe comes off witht he three stud attachment, and better seal, as opposed to the two stud and crappy donut gasket on the F. I have always had trouble at that spot. Also had trouble keeping the two manifolds together below the carb. F has three bolts there, 2F has 5.

You may want to go 2F all the way, aircleaner and carb, if you have the parts.

Not sure on the waterpump and fan, you will need to chech fit. I think they are interchangable. 2F will have fan clutch though, and will rob a bit less power, and is quieter on the road, less fan roar. I think the F alternator bracket will bolt up where it orignally was. Fuel pump should be fine. Use the best distributor out of the two, each will be smogged, unless you get a non-us version or something. By best I mean the one in best shape.
 
Thank you all for sharing your experience and direction. Based on your comments, I've searched headers vs. stock exhaust manifolds, F intake/exhaust on 2F and 2F In/Ex on F. Here's where I am with my thinking:

- I have the F intake and exhaust manifolds, carburetor and aircleaner assembly.

- I have the 2F intake and exhaust manifolds but do not have a 2F carb or aircleaner.

- I have the stock '72 exhaust system and can't make the investment in a header right now.

So, I think the best approach given what parts I have on-hand and dollars, is to go with the F In/Ex manifolds, F carb and aircleaner assembly. I think everthing should line without modifications to the aircleaner and exhaust connection.

My biggest concern is the bolt pattern on the manifolds and which gasket to use. I have an OEM 2F manifold gasket. Will that work with the F manifolds on the 2F head?

Thanks again for your help.
 
Yes, 2F manifold gasket will work with an F manifold. The 2F manifold studs are bigger diameter than F manifold studs, you may need to enlarge the manifold holes just a bit, easy job with a dremel...
 
Yes, 2F manifold gasket will work with an F manifold. The 2F manifold studs are bigger diameter than F manifold studs, you may need to enlarge the manifold holes just a bit, easy job with a dremel...

That's great news! Now I can start cleaning and painting all the parts. I'll post some pics as things come together.

As a side note, I did compare the front motor mounts and I'll need to go with the 2F mounts because the bolt holes in the 2F block are larger than on the F block.

Thanks again for your help. :cheers:
 
Is the engine assembled, don't forget the 1F aircleaner to engine bracket. It can only mount under the forward two head bolts.
 
Is the engine assembled, don't forget the 1F aircleaner to engine bracket. It can only mount under the forward two head bolts.

Thanks for your comment.

The engine is being assembled on the stand and I did already torque down the head bolts. So, unfortunately, I'll need to back them all out in sequence and redo them again with the F aircleaner bracket in place. Luckly, I hadn't torqued down the rocker assembly yet. I'm hoping the head gasket will be okay.
 
I'm pretty sure it's OK to just pull the two bolts required to bolt on the air cleaner mount...I've done it several times, as have others here on 'Mud.



Thanks for your comment.

The engine is being assembled on the stand and I did already torque down the head bolts. So, unfortunately, I'll need to back them all out in sequence and redo them again with the F aircleaner bracket in place. Luckly, I hadn't torqued down the rocker assembly yet. I'm hoping the head gasket will be okay.
 
Best to do it now, before you get water and such in the block.

And yes pighead, I know you can do, but you still run a risk. I just didn't want kvanoort to get it all installed in the truck and find the aircleaner has nothing to bolt too, and then he has a coolant to cylinder leak or something occur after removing the bolts.
 
Best to do it now, before you get water and such in the block.

And yes pighead, I know you can do, but you still run a risk. I just didn't want kvanoort to get it all installed in the truck and find the aircleaner has nothing to bolt too, and then he has a coolant to cylinder leak or something occur after removing the bolts.

Better to be safe than sorry. I'll loosen all the head bolts in sequence, install the bracket, then torque everything back down. Not a big deal at this point.

I couldn't do this project without the help of everyone on this message board so, thanks again!
 
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