2f turbo? (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Just curious-- do you do anything to the valves when you do a turbo conversion? I remember from my Supra days that if you converted a car to turbo, they recomended you get higher strength hardened valves...

Steve
 
With higher boosts it is a good idea. But on a cruiser motor you don't want a lot of boost anyway.. ~ 8-10 max..
 
Mace -
You're kidding yourself if you think you can get 50% more power out of a 2F with the same reliablility as a SBC swap. Yeah, it's kind of romantic & more "pure" Toyota, but the big boys put millions of $ of R&D into this stuff to make sure it's reliable (besides driveable).

Depends on whether you'd rather wrench or wheel.

I love to wrench, but I'd rather wheel.
 
Mace said:
With higher boosts it is a good idea. But on a cruiser motor you don't want a lot of boost anyway.. ~ 8-10 max..

8-10 max? Really? I can run 10 psi on an aluminum block Honda engine all day long with no problems. The big, low compression, iron cylinders on the 2F should do fine with a lot more boost than that....

right?

Or am I pulling monkey's out of my butt again? I've never actually turbo'd a toyota.. so my information is applied from honda engines.
 
Search and read the other turbo threads on the board...

Tinker- he's not kidding himself, he did it.

Mace has dyno results in a thread on hardcore...
 
I turbo'd my V6 Tacoma , and with a completely stock motor I run 15psi daily and have turned it up to 20psi on multiple occasions. At 13.8 psi I put 364hp to the wheels, which works out to over %100 increase in hp. So I don't see why a 2f (stronger motor) couldn't easily do %50hp increase reliably.
By the way, I put 300+ miles a week on my truck delivering pizza.
 
That is the thing.. Reliability.
The reason cruiser motors last so long is they do not have high compressions.

so smaller amounts of boost will make your motor last longer.

Cruiser rings are not the strongest units in history. That is why I reccomend less boost and not more.

I do run up to 12 psi in mine.
 
How about posting some more specific measurements on the parts that you had to fab up. My friend has a machine shop, so that would be a possibility for me. Thanks!!

:beer:
 
I'll measure the thickness for you. But the flanges are best taken care of by using a turbo and the stock exhaust manifold.
 
Mace,
If I were to bolt the turbo directly to my 2h manifold, there would be no room for the tailpipe as the flange is only inches from the firewall. I am thinking about machining a "U" with stock flange on one end and turbo flange on the other to move the turbo flange farther forward better clearing the firewall. I don't think this is a problem on the 2f, but do you foresee any problems mounting the turbo to such an adaptor piece? thanks very much
 
Mace, now about relaibility. How many miles have you had your turbo setup?

Have you started burning oil?

What about blow-by? I think that that is what it is called. It is when the rings start to fail and the air-fuel mixture blows past the rings and starts to contaminate the oil. Has this happened?

:beer:
 
ok, enough of this 2f talk lets have a little sidetracking.

will the computer on a 3FE handle a turbo system? that would be fantastic
 
as long as it is a stout piece I do not see an issue. I would wrap it to contain some of the heat tho.


Heck, there are places that are mounting the turbo under the cab (bad idea IMHO) for cleaner instalations..
 
My turbo is on my rock rig. Probably about 3K miles or so.

I do not believe that I am burning oil.

I have not noticed any blowby. The motor that I put the turbo on is not a new motor tho..
It probably already had 180K on it. And seems to be holding up just fine.

I am not nice to this truck. I am either really on it or lugging the motor.

My oil does not get contaminated. Part of this is due to running propane as well.

Judging the longevity of the setup that I have right now is not the best choice. The next one will be a much better example of mileage/performance/reliability/longevity..
 
What would you have done to improve the mileage/performance/reliability/longevity of your turbo setup?

:beer:
 
Iti s not as much "what would I have done"
but more of a "what can most people expect"

Most of my wheelin in this rig takes over an hour to go a mile.

the 60 will be a much better gauge of how the turbo will perform in a street/mild off road application.

I know the power is there. And reliability has not suffered.
but knowing the mileage with the turbo is kinda hard.

The next motor will have a different cam and potentially some Total seal rings.
Other than that I would not change much.
 
iron_giant said:
Mace,
If I were to bolt the turbo directly to my 2h manifold, there would be no room for the tailpipe as the flange is only inches from the firewall. I am thinking about machining a "U" with stock flange on one end and turbo flange on the other to move the turbo flange farther forward better clearing the firewall. I don't think this is a problem on the 2f, but do you foresee any problems mounting the turbo to such an adaptor piece? thanks very much


I have a 2H also .. and the Turbo idea is still in my mind from the day one .. you plan buy an aftermaket turbo to adaps all other issues .. ?

What kind of turbo .. ?
 
baldredhead said:
ok, enough of this 2f talk lets have a little sidetracking.

will the computer on a 3FE handle a turbo system? that would be fantastic

I've given this one some thought...
I don't know the in's and out's of the 3FE FI (because mine hasn't broken yet), but it's probably closely related to the MR2 setup (I also follow those). The fuel injectors and fuel pump would likely need to be switched to higher flow to support the increase fueling needs. There is a comprehensive fuel injector chart that the folks over at mr2oc keep up with so the 3FE injector is probably in the chart if you figure out the color, top/side feed, etc.
Some folks have turbo'd the NA MR2, but the stock computer gets confused when the boost gets very high (over 7 if I'm remembering right) as I'm guessing the signal from the AFM get out of line from the fuel curve. The 4AGE stock fuel curve was kinda fat up top so that helped, but apparently careful tuning is a key to make it live, so you'd probably need some type of adjustable fuel pressure regulator and maybe a piggyback fuel controller. That's on a 4AGE but I'd expect the same issues on a 3FE.

Hey Mace - do you use an intercooler in your setup? 12 sounds like a lot without one.
 
No intercooler. The pane helps it run cooler. and I only see 12 psi varely rarely and only for a sec.

I have no idea if the 3F fuel injection would handle the turbo.
 
Tapage said:
I have a 2H also .. and the Turbo idea is still in my mind from the day one .. you plan buy an aftermaket turbo to adaps all other issues .. ?

What kind of turbo .. ?

not trying to hijack this thread but when turbo knowledge is available i jump on it.

The aftermarket kits like Axt are too expensive. They run three grand U.S. so I am working out a home brew turbo. The turbo is from a mercedes 5 cylinder turbo diesel. It's a smaller than the 2h but revs higher so it should put the spooling just right for the 2h. Also it has an adjustable wastegate so boost can be contolled. The plumbing isn't too bad. I am just using the same points as the axt for oil but running all of my own lines. the only dificult part, and why I hopped in on this thread, is mounting the turbo to the stock flange. Anyway, it should end up saving me $2000-2500 in the end. And if all goes well my 2h will be more like a naturally aspirate f motor (haha).

David
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom