2F rebuild how much?

Joined
Feb 8, 2007
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98
Location
Clermont FL
Hi, I have been posting regarding an '85 FJ60 I'm interested in. I think it needs a head gasket minimum and probably some trans work as well. The body and frame are awesome and rust free. It has a new $3K paint job that is a year old. There are before pix and I have thoroughly checked everywhere with a magnet. My question is how much would a good shop charge for a complete rebuild? I know it will vary but I figure if i get enough responses I can come up with a high/low/average. Please give only shop quotes/cost not DIY as I don't really have the time for another project ( I'm currently restoring a '70 Chevy C10 w/10K orig miles). I have received alot of great advise and I'm really torn on what is a fair price to pay for this cruiser. I'm in central FL and there are not alot of cruisers in this area (except the 16k and 55k originals that are on EBAY). Why can't I find those? I'm looking to turn this into a DD. Thank you for your input. I really appreciate all the responses. :confused:
 

D'Animal

Rescuer of Beagles & Landcruisers
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What is wrong with the engine?
Does it have a blown head gasket.
How many miles are on it.
Does it need rebuild?
Is it leaking oil from every gasket possible?

A complete gasket set lists for $350 to $375. Cruiser Dan can get a OEM for less.

I think he gives discounts to silver star and TLCA members. Not sure
 
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Feb 8, 2007
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Clermont FL
Hey D'animal, 180K It had white smoke coming out the exhaust that varied in intensity with acceleration. I didn't pull the dipstick and check it because the owner was probably not expecting such a thorough examination and seemed impatient. It was very wet around the oil filler, and PS pump. The Smog pump bearing was whining, and the rear main was leaking like a drunk sailor. The oil pressure wa 2/3 up. The temp was 2/3 up after 20 mins of idleing and test drive. The trans sounded like something came loose or broke during a shift but ran OK after that. I was more worried about the body/frame rust issues. The mechanics did not match the body or interior. I expected that part to be fairly bullet proof and was more concerned with a structual examination.
 

John McVicker

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Jul 11, 2005
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Big Pine, CA
A complete rebuild may or may not be necessary, but to answer your question, expect to pay $3500-5000 for a drop off, pick up complete OEM non hi-po rebuild. And those prices can vary wildly. According to some threads last week, maybe $5-6k if taken to a respected LandCruise specialist, which if you are going to keep long term would be in your best intrest.

Then you have to consider the 'while you are in there' problem. ie, clutch job, water pump, motor mounts etc. All good & in some cases necessary, but add greatly to the cost.

This of course does not address the other issues you mentioned. Smog pump, PS pump & the noise you heard around the tranny.

HTH, John
 

D'Animal

Rescuer of Beagles & Landcruisers
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You might as well figure on pulling the engine. White smoke = Blown Head gasket or a cracked head. Check the compression numbers, it may be time to re-ring it since it has 175k on it.

While you have the engine out you should install a complete gasket set. Check the main bearings and rod bearings.

The smog pump is a non servicable item. They are around $900 from Toyota. You can find some rebuild aftermarket one cheaper. Keep your pulley.

The list goes on and on. There is nothing cheap about rebuilding a 2F.
 
Joined
Jun 15, 2006
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Ipswich, MA, North Dakota, Phoenix
I've had two 2F's rebuilt, and they came out at around $1600 apiece:grinpimp: , although it's been awhile since the work was done. I took each out and reinstalled them myself, with my brother's help. That did NOT include the waterpump, hoses, clutch, pressure plate, etc. One had 230,000 with the original clutch, and if my wife hadn't continue to run it hot:whoops: , after the water pump went belly up:doh: , it would probably still be running just fine. Check yours out thoroughly before you decide to completely rebuild it, the bottom end of the 2F's are very strong, and it may just need a new or rebuilt head. :cheers: Good luck. Ned
 
Joined
Jun 16, 2005
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357
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portland, OR
i just picked up my head today after having a local machine shop go through it. they charged $209 for magnaflux, milling, valve stem seals, and valve grind.

the head gasket kit from MAF for like 55 bucks included all the gaskets i need to put it all back together.

the cylinder walls are nice and smooth and the tops of the pistons look good too. that's with 280k on it.

point is....

you may not need a rebuild and the headgasket isn't too tough to do yourself. i even lifted it off myself. (you'll need help putting it back on though)
 

D'Animal

Rescuer of Beagles & Landcruisers
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I've had two 2F's rebuilt, and they came out at around $1600 apiece:grinpimp: , although it's been awhile since the work was done. I took each out and reinstalled them myself, with my brother's help. That did NOT include the waterpump, hoses, clutch, pressure plate, etc. One had 230,000 with the original clutch, and if my wife hadn't continue to run it hot:whoops: , after the water pump went belly up:doh: , it would probably still be running just fine. Check yours out thoroughly before you decide to completely rebuild it, the bottom end of the 2F's are very strong, and it may just need a new or rebuilt head. :cheers: Good luck. Ned

Did you have it bored and oversized pistons for that price? Head work? Any lower end work such as new bearings etc? That seems cheap.
 
Joined
Jan 18, 2007
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106
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San Bernardino Mountains.
I just had my 87 60 rebuilt.I did it right.It cost me around 4100.00 I had a new radiator installed and all the hoses including the vaccum hoses.I had a new water pump installed.The motor cost about 3,000. plus the other stuff.I found a shop that would give me the best warrantee also.Now my 60 runs sooooo gooood.I think it was worth the money.You can find other shops that will do it for lots less.Beware!!! The shop I had do it had already done a motor for my 85 4runner and that motor is still going strong and real smooth.You get what you pay for.If it's got alot of miles on it don't just do a top end job.That's a bandaide and you'lle soon be doing the bottom end anyway.Good luck,Dave
 
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Oct 30, 2006
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Heber City, UT
What you can also do to check for major water in the oil is just barely unscrew the oil drain plug and see what starts coming out. Oil floats on water and if there is water in there it will come out first.
 

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