2F Manifold Install (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jul 19, 2004
Threads
67
Messages
586
Location
Richmond, VA
I am in the process of installing a new manifold gasket using the stud kit from SOR, although I can't get everything lined up. What trick am I missing?? I have removed a couple of the exhaust hangers with hopes of allowing some give to better move things around - no luck with that. I also have removed the stud on the farthest left (front) of the motor as the manifold seemed to get hung up on that stud - no luck with that either.

What am I missing? Should I ditch all the studs and reuse my old bolts? Is it ok to use my old bolts?

Thanks
Chris
 
This is why I like using the bolts ...

Was the manifold resurfaced, by any chance ?

You're prolly not missing anything. It's just a tight fit with all the smog stuff in there, if you still have it. You have to rotate the horns a little and perhaps use a mallet or wood dowel to knock 'em out a bit to line up with the holes or studs.

Did you drop the down pipe ? Or are you getting hung up on it?
 
Surfaces are within tolerances referenced in the FSM, so I didn't resurface. I have am still smogged, although all the EGR components are not on right now so it seems like there should be enough room.

I am dropping the manifold onto the exhaust pipe then trying the line up everything. I have tried reverse of that but the exhaust gets in the way. Is the exhaust usually totally dropped for this install?

Can I reuse all my old bolts and just use the 2 studs that were factory?
 
I did drop the down pipe once, and it made it easier. Just remove the bracket that's attached to the bellhousing, or around there, and it'll drop down. But those bolts are prolly rusted to hell, so that might open new issues. Helps to have a second set of hands to pull down on the down pipe, if it's still all attached.

Sure you can reuse the bolts, nuts. Prolly 99 percent do. Just clean 'em up and use some good, hi-temp anti-seize and drop the torque values about 15%. The stud kit works, I've used it, with the head on the engine... it just takes some finagling to get the manifold to fit. And it also improves your cuss vocabulary, too!

Good luck.
 
I was doing the same thing today. I removed all the studs except for the 2 center. I then installed manifold, after I pulled on the exhaust with a ratcheting belt. I then locked nuts on the studs and reinserted except for the holes below. One major issue is that I cannot get the last 15 mill bolt on the firewall side horn to go in. Strugled for at least one hour. Hands are sore, cruiser is now for sale! Lol
 
Last edited:
Did you seperate the intake and exhaust manifolds while they were off? This can change the alignment, When I separate the two to replace the gaskets, I leave the 5 bolts slightly loose until I have the manifolds back in place, then snug all the studs and bolts down. I did mine along with a textbook de-smog a couple of weeks ago. That firewall bolt was about the same for me. Forty years of woodworking have left a lot of my fingertips without much feeling or dexterity.

finger%20injury.jpg
 
Holy crap i almost threw up my morning cup of Barista Prima French roast. :eek:
And i've been babying a finger with the knuckle skin torn off..
 
Whammo!!!
 
Oh, man - I hope those aren't your "kitty"-ticklin' fingers! :grinpimp:

And I too, did the nose-coffee-snort when the pic loaded.


:eek:
 
Jointer blades are sharp!
 
24 tooth ripping blade on the table saw about 5 years ago. Slotted my middle finger right down the center up to the first knuckle. In 3 weeks I'm getting married and my fiance is a nurse at our local medical center and spent 20 years as an EMT with the fire dept. She didn't even have to be pretty......just a bonus! What I was getting at was think how hard that last bolt is to start when you're half blind and can't do even do it by feel. Still, I live for the challenge and I love fixing my cruisers. Now back to the thread, sorry for the hijack. BTW, I posted about 3 weeks ago how I surface my manifolds at home in a post called 'a 3 beer manifold'. Pretty much hillbilly stuff.............
 
Did you seperate the intake and exhaust manifolds while they were off? This can change the alignment, When I separate the two to replace the gaskets, I leave the 5 bolts slightly loose until I have the manifolds back in place, then snug all the studs and bolts down. I did mine along with a textbook de-smog a couple of weeks ago. That firewall bolt was about the same for me. Forty years of woodworking have left a lot of my fingertips without much feeling or dexterity.

I did exactly the same thing as far as tightening he bolts. I did all of them in a few passes. The horn at the fire wall has no bolt. I threw the fxxxing thing away. I will more than likely have an exhaust leak but what can one do?
 
The horn at the fire wall has no bolt. I threw the fxxxing thing away. I will more than likely have an exhaust leak but what can one do?

You will. And it will make noise and drive you crazy and possibly fug up all your hard work.

You can do like everybody else and curse and cajole and figure out some crazy combination of wobble extensions that makes that back bolt go.

:meh:
 
You will. And it will make noise and drive you crazy and possibly fug up all your hard work.

You can do like everybody else and curse and cajole and figure out some crazy combination of wobble extensions that makes that back bolt go.

:meh:

I tried so hard. I have everything tight now so I doubt I'll loosen everything again. It's not abou the ratchet or wrench to tighten the darn thing. It's about getting the bolt to actually cath threads. I wiggled and pulled on the god darn manifolds and I tried the bolt till my fingers called it quits. The next time I take it apart is when I pull the whole engine for a rebuild or something. Besides the truck was so noisy before, and had exhaust leaks everywhere. So I am sure it's going to be much quieter now.
 
FWIW, I chase all the threads and thread the bolts (with anti sieze) into each bolt hole before installing the manifolds. That rear one, next to the firewall, sometimes takes tapping the horn in/out/around to get clearance.

If your hands are big, find a neighborhood kid with hobbit-hands and pay him five bux to start the bolt.
 
Those bolts are a PITA but they are doable. If you have one that won't go, take all the rest out and start the hardest bolt first. It may make the others more difficult but they are easier to reach.

Bring the battle to the field of your choosing, Grasshopper.

Leave all the bolts loose until you have them all started. You can file or slightly grind the rear bolt into a bullet point. Careful on the insertion angle as it will be more likely to cross thread.

I know it is hard to go backwards when you've worked so hard for what you did accomplish but sometimes that's the only way.

Good luck.
 
FWIW, I chase all the threads and thread the bolts (with anti sieze) into each bolt hole before installing the manifolds. That rear one, next to the firewall, sometimes takes tapping the horn in/out/around to get clearance.

If your hands are big, find a neighborhood kid with hobbit-hands and pay him five bux to start the bolt.

Yup, pain in the ass. And I have tiny hands... I ended up cracking a rib trying to cajole that damned thing into place on my 55...

:doh:
 
I did start in that corner, I did leave all the bolts loose, it was a pain to get the second from the firewall in, cause of the horn, I did have brand new bolts, etc. now i will do them again some other time. I did run the bolts through the holes at first.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom