Thought I would share my process for installing a 24V head unit and a separate 12V system to power a ham radio. I previously spent quite a bit of time getting acquainted with the condition of my power supply behind the dash. Discovered I had a 12V converter powering the old stereo (which has never worked since my ownership began last year), however the 12V output ranged 1-12V consistently, seemingly busted. See: 24V Radio Troubleshooting - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/24v-radio-troubleshooting.1313933/
New plan is installing a 24V stereo, and wiring a 24V-12V converter. Switch in place before the converter to avoid parasitic loss and so I can run the ham without the ignition on. No other 12V plans, but I'm going to put in a fuse box for future use, whatever that may be. Here is my plan for that, based on estimates of wire runs necessary; dotted lines indicate chassis ground.
Hardware has been ordered:
Converter - Victron Energy Orion, 25A non isolated 24V-12V
Switch - I'm tired of crappy switches so splurged on an aircraft salvaged MS24523-22 (1TL1-2). Hopefully used doesn't equal tired out.
Ham - Kenwood TM-V71A, 12V/15A
Radio - Continental TR7423, 24V/10A
Voltmeter - I'm still on the fence about this one. This should be switched with the ignition, so that complication may make it not worth it to me.
Distribution fuse panel: TBD
Few questions off the hop:
1) the converter supplies an OUTPUT of 25A continuous and 35A peak. I don't see the amp rating for the 24V input, but is it fair to assume it can be half of the output at peak (or something like 15-20amp)?
2) Is it okay to ground everything at chassis, despite the different voltages?
3) The only firewall penetration I see is on the right side, oposite the battery. Are there any on the left side/battery side I can use to shorten the run?
New plan is installing a 24V stereo, and wiring a 24V-12V converter. Switch in place before the converter to avoid parasitic loss and so I can run the ham without the ignition on. No other 12V plans, but I'm going to put in a fuse box for future use, whatever that may be. Here is my plan for that, based on estimates of wire runs necessary; dotted lines indicate chassis ground.
Hardware has been ordered:
Converter - Victron Energy Orion, 25A non isolated 24V-12V
Switch - I'm tired of crappy switches so splurged on an aircraft salvaged MS24523-22 (1TL1-2). Hopefully used doesn't equal tired out.
Ham - Kenwood TM-V71A, 12V/15A
Radio - Continental TR7423, 24V/10A
Voltmeter - I'm still on the fence about this one. This should be switched with the ignition, so that complication may make it not worth it to me.
Distribution fuse panel: TBD
Few questions off the hop:
1) the converter supplies an OUTPUT of 25A continuous and 35A peak. I don't see the amp rating for the 24V input, but is it fair to assume it can be half of the output at peak (or something like 15-20amp)?
2) Is it okay to ground everything at chassis, despite the different voltages?
3) The only firewall penetration I see is on the right side, oposite the battery. Are there any on the left side/battery side I can use to shorten the run?