24V Radio Connection?? (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Sep 18, 2005
Threads
8
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145
Location
South Africa
On 24V vehicles what is the output on the Radio Plug? 12V or 24V? Surely Toy must have provided 12V there??!!

Can one connect a std Radio, bought at any HiFi shop, to 24V or is there a max voltage they can take?!

What would be the best solution to get 12V inside vehicle for other accessories??

What should be the output reading of a 24V to 12V Converter?
On the 74 it is 15.5V. Is that correct??


:hmm:
 
The problem with running 12v stuff on 24v setups is that it will cause one battery to go flat and the other battery to over charge. Which will kill both batterys prematurely.

Here is an article you should read
BJ Series Land Cruisers: Tech Articles: 24 Volt Systems

To overcome this you can run a few different setups
I used to run a redarc voltage reducer (converter) 30amp model, and (im not sure if it was setup wrong) but it was really unreliable. I got rid of all the wiring and did it again and now run a dick smith 20-25amp model and it is much more reliable. The other day i left my radio on for two working days straight as i was working in the garage and my cruiser started first go. With the other model i couldnt leave anything on longer than 10minutes without jump starting it.

This is the new one, it currently runs the cd player, a boost gauge light, 12v cigarette lighter and a uhf radio no problems.
DSC_0013.jpg
 
Why would Toy have 24V on the radio connection?? Surely, there are very few radios that can handle 24V.
What are the large trucks with 24V System fitting?? :hmm:
 
Great. Looks like the right frequency!
 
We use VHF Radio's over here that can be purchased from the supplier (Kenwood or Icom) with converters. No Problem there, but normal FM Radios with 24V seems to be a needle in a heystack. Suppose I could fit the same converter from Kenwood to any other radio. Will get those goodies next week.

What was the reason for 24V on a Land Cruiser anyway? You get BJ4's with the same 3B engine, but the one vehicle is 24V and the other 12V. :hmm:
 
In japan it gets cold and they needed 24v to crank the starter every morning
 
why 24v?

Not positive, but I think the 24v in the 70 series is due to the truck being NATO spec. for sales in Europe etc. Certainly many of those provided to NGO's in Africa during the 90's were 24v.
 
Sowikal, I tend to believe that as well.

Noticed something else while driving it 1500km home the past weekend. Something switched from time to time somewhere under the rear bench. First thought of an electrical fault with the converter, but when I stopped to look there was no strange smell and that unit worked well. After phoning the previous owner, who told me that this click, click noise is there from the beginning, but does not happen always, I left it at that. Would still like to know what it is. Seems to come up only after quite some time of driving.

Anybody else have this noise??
 
When God gave us diesels he didn't think we'd need stereos.

Bruce, the "clackity clackity clackity" is enough music for your ear; isn't it?
 
I had clunking/funny noise that took me about 15 months to find :mad:
Turned out to be the torque arms or you may call them radius arms. The bushes had worn. It took me so long to solve it because I did not do them backup tight enough after replacing the bushes and the clunking was still there after , so assumed it was something else :whoops:
Of course I now know to hang my weight on a 2 foot breaker bar now to do them up and they have not come loose since.
But I think you are refering to more of an electrical problem?
 
I had clunking/funny noise that took me about 15 months to find :mad:
Turned out to be the torque arms or you may call them radius arms. The bushes had worn. It took me so long to solve it because I did not do them backup tight enough after replacing the bushes and the clunking was still there after , so assumed it was something else :whoops:
Of course I now know to hang my weight on a 2 foot breaker bar now to do them up and they have not come loose since.
But I think you are refering to more of an electrical problem?

I see what you are saying. A louder radio would help one to ignore the annoying sounds of a rig that needs attention.
 
I see what you are saying. A louder radio would help one to ignore the annoying sounds of a rig that needs attention.
I was refering to Adolf's post about strange noises (switching from under the rear seat)...
But you are right a louder radio does help ignore the strange noises you get sometimes ;)
 
My rig does not need any attention! :p Except for some mods! :bounce2:

But yeah, I was referring to an electrical switching while :steer: !
 
I went with a 24-12v converter in my BJ44. You can almost see it to the left of the radio in this picture. I have been running it this way since Dec 2006 and hasn't let me down yet.
BJ44V4.jpg
 
Running 12V radio on 24v truck is a problem if you connect it direct to the battery. As someone rightly points out it causes uneven pulling down of one side of the pair and causing this battery to never be charged fully resulting . SOmeone also hooked my 12V windows to the battery. Someone also hooked all my gauges direct to the 12V battery (very sloppy work by a local shop - including a short which melted a few instruments) and this seemed to be live all the time until we tracked it down. Result was a new battery every 2-3 months (and a flat battery every 3 days unless driven and also had to charge the batteries with a charger) until we pulled it all apart and put in a new 24-12v transformer and connected everything still 12V to the 12V end.

No more flat batteries - we still havng a problem with connecting UFH/VHF radio and making sure the earth is correct as a 24V earth coming back up to the radio 12V earth will kill it. One been killed already.

24V is awesome with electric winches.
 

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