24V Electrical Understanding for accessories (HJ61 12HT)

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i have several 24V related questions. I am the new owner of an HJ61, and totally new to 24V so forgive me. I also know that bits and pieces of the info have been posted in other small threads but nothing seems to give a good "explain like im five years old" level explanation of several things. I know very little about electricals in general and the most complex thing ive done is a kill switch on another vehicle so im not even very familiar with alot of the terminology.


I am aware of what 24V is and what it means but i am trying to make my rig have the usual accessories (lights, aftermarket head unit, winch, etc.). The following is my plan and some questions and i would appreciate as much help/corrections as possible:

To make accessories easy, I am planning on installing a 24V-12V equalizer, which should help keep both batteries balanced as well as provide an outlet for 12V power i think. From the equalizer I will run a relay and then to a waterproof fuse block and place it somewhere up high in the engine bay. To this fuse block I will wire any accessories. I should be able to run lights, winch, etc all off the fuse block as far as I know, with the ability to run multiple items simultaneously. I think the wire running from the equalizer to the fuse block will need to be large in order to support this? I thought about also trying to get just the winch to still run on 24V but that seems like that would add alot of headache for relatively small performance gain.

Additionally, the head unit as far as im aware is 24V. New touchscreen one would be 12V. So i need a way to separately get 12V constant draw to it so it can retain memory. Would I simply tap into the 12V output line coming from the equalizer? maybe through another relay with a constant prong? not sure how to do all the 12V accessories plus the head unit since the fuse block would not be getting power while the truck is off.


Also, i would like to upgrade headlights, dome lights, etc. with LEDs. But again, everything is the 24V version so i am not sure of any sources of 24V LED dome light bulbs for example that i can drop into the stock dome lights and same thing for headlights/tail lights. But i am open to sources for these if anyone has any that arent from an ancient thread with a non-existent source.


Should i just convert to 12V? I know that can be a PITA but at this point i need to add so many 12V things and track down so many special 24V things that i think it may be worth it to just convert the whole truck to 12V so i can just run everything but still have my good old 12HT. Plus since i already have two batteries for the 24V system i would instantly gain a true dual battery setup by converting to 12V and separating the two batteries in a 12V system and then proceeding as you would for any dual battery US-spec setup.


I am clearly out of my league here a bit. Im probably wrong about or missing several things. please help me.
 
You can easily run the head unit and other small bits of a 24 to 12V converter.
But You can't run a winch or other heavy drawers of that - 24V winches are available and are the by far better choice.
All other things like bulbs are available in 24V or are 12-24V compatible like my led trailer lights for example.
Don't even think about converting to 12V ...unless you have a complete donor truck to part out.
I have zero problems with the 24V system (knock on wood..) I dont even think about the system itself - no worries at all. Not bad for a 37 year old truck. Due to the higher voltage the amperage for the same load is lower as it would be in a 12V system, good for the switches.
Even if you have to charge your batteries, (I have forgotten to turn off the headlights and always postpone to intall a warning buzzer) you just take that connection between the batteries off and use jumper leads to connect both batteries in paralell - in that way you can use the old 12V charger.
I know you don't mentioned it - but never ever draw 12V of one of the two main batteries in series. A while ago my old 24 to 12V converter stopped working and I hooked only the simple old school cd player head unit onto one of the batteries -well knowing that that is bad- ....And in the 10 days or so until I got the new one the two batteries got somewhat unbalanced - I couldn't believe it.
Just accept the system and be happy !
 
all of my bulbs are 24v LEDs, you can find them, but then again my taillights are universal trailer lights so that may be tricky. You are not going to run a 12v winch off of a power converter, ain't gonna happen. Do get a power inverter, mine is located in the cab at the front of the center arm rest. 24v is superior to 12v for performance. If you want a 12v truck get an 80 series, lol.
 
all of my bulbs are 24v LEDs, you can find them, but then again my taillights are universal trailer lights so that may be tricky. You are not going to run a 12v winch off of a power converter, ain't gonna happen. Do get a power inverter, mine is located in the cab at the front of the center arm rest. 24v is superior to 12v for performance. If you want a 12v truck get an 80 series, lol.
How did you get the inverter in the arm rest? I assume it isn't stock. Where did you get the 24V LEDs? I seem to have trouble finding a dome light bulb for example. Maybe I haven't looked hard enough.
 
have you tried Partsouq or Amayama for parts? click "Toyota" then "Land"/"Land Cruiser" then look for your model under "Filter" then "frame," hj61, then scroll down to find your model. https://partsouq.com/en/catalog/genuine/pick?c=Toyota&model=LAND+CRUISER&ssd=$*KwEDWV46AAQAAAAAAOaaVPc=$

yes, my armrest/console I made from a .50 cal ammo can. Headlights are from TruckLite. ToyotaMatt VintageTeqParts.com Home Page – VintageTEqParts.com - https://vintageteqparts.com/ may also have stuff that is 24v.
 
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You can easily run the head unit and other small bits of a 24 to 12V converter.
But You can't run a winch or other heavy drawers of that - 24V winches are available and are the by far better choice.
All other things like bulbs are available in 24V or are 12-24V compatible like my led trailer lights for example.
Don't even think about converting to 12V ...unless you have a complete donor truck to part out.
I have zero problems with the 24V system (knock on wood..) I dont even think about the system itself - no worries at all. Not bad for a 37 year old truck. Due to the higher voltage the amperage for the same load is lower as it would be in a 12V system, good for the switches.
Even if you have to charge your batteries, (I have forgotten to turn off the headlights and always postpone to intall a warning buzzer) you just take that connection between the batteries off and use jumper leads to connect both batteries in paralell - in that way you can use the old 12V charger.
I know you don't mentioned it - but never ever draw 12V of one of the two main batteries in series. A while ago my old 24 to 12V converter stopped working and I hooked only the simple old school cd player head unit onto one of the batteries -well knowing that that is bad- ....And in the 10 days or so until I got the new one the two batteries got somewhat unbalanced - I couldn't believe it.
Just accept the system and be happy !
Okay but if i run the head unit off the converter along with the rest of the rest of the acessories it needs to be an equalizer/converter right? and there cant be a relay between it and the fuse block everything else is connected to because then i wouldnt get the constant 12V draw to keep memory if im not mistaken.
 
Reviving this as i have finally gotten around to solving this. Quick question about your setup. You mention in the write up that it should work normal with a backup camera.

Considering the backup camera function is usjally tapped into the reverse light which would be 24V, but the unit is 12V, how does the backup camera get the signal from the tail light?
 
I have a relay on my 24-12V converter. I don’t have a ton of 12V devices but the radio is one.
Read this about how I got the radio to work the way I wanted.
12V radio memory
Above question directed at jblueridge for clarifications
 
This is what I would do.
Buy a 24v relay.
Connect pin 85 to the 24v reverse lamp circuit and pin 86 to ground.
Connect pin 30 to your 12v source (converter?) and pin 87 to camera’s power lead.
Ground camera.
The relay won’t know or care what voltage is going through pins 30 and 87.

Why the pins have those numbers for names, I don’t know.
 
This is what I would do.
Buy a 24v relay.
Connect pin 85 to the 24v reverse lamp circuit and pin 86 to ground.
Connect pin 30 to your 12v source (converter?) and pin 87 to camera’s power lead.
Ground camera.
The relay won’t know or care what voltage is going through pins 30 and 87.

Why the pins have those numbers for names, I don’t know.
Appreciate ya!
 
Just to explain the numbers on relays:
This is the old Bosch invented nomenclature DIN 72552 for all electrical connections on vehicles.
 

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