24V Dual Battery Cross Over Cable

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Nov 7, 2006
Threads
46
Messages
410
Location
Breslau, Ontario, Canada
Hey guys,

Do any of you guys know what the original configuration and setup was for the cross over cable between the 2 batteries in a 24V Diesel BJ42 system (1981).

My BJ42 is having starting problems even with realatively newer batteries. I think the PO modified the cross over cable (goes from the Passenger side battery to Driver side battery) to tie into the batteries with a side mount post... Was this the original setup or was it originally top mount on both batteries?

I think my problem is the all the corroding clamps and conversion couplings that were implemented to make it a side mount cable...

If anyone has a picture of what the original configuration was that would be great...

Also, I would imagine and OEM cross over cable is quit expensive, have any of you guys fabricated your own one.... If so, what size cable and terminal connections did you use and how did you tie it all together....

Any input you guys have would be greatly appreciated..
 
easiest thing is to get top post batteries, and put the marine connectors on them ( the ones with a bolt sticking straight up with a wingnut) then you can just get some heavy guage cables made up anywhere.

that guage of wire is expensive, even if you don't go to toyota for it.

I have "00" cables running everywhere in my truck, but I didn't exactly buy the stuff, so the 100dollars per inch thing didn't really apply to me...:grinpimp:
 
I have "00" cables running everywhere in my truck, but I didn't exactly buy the stuff, so the 100dollars per inch thing didn't really apply to me...:grinpimp:
:eek::eek::eek:
Forget the tires and mags, now every thief on the Island is goin be looking for your rig just for the copper. :D
 
Thanks for the info guys... do any of you know if the BJ42 3B diesel originally had a top mount cross over cable???

Also, any suggestion on where I can get the terminal connectors you are talking about and how you connect them to the cable (ie. solder, crimp)???
 
crappy tire has marine style connectors. as does any marine store ( don't know where you're located, if it's near an ocean then chandleries are often best)

failing that , welding cable works great, so a welding shop could help.

then for the lugs to the end of the cable, solder and then crimp and shrinkwrap is best, and only takes a couple more minutes to do it that way.

pretty sure they were originally top mounts on the bj's. In my bj40 there was a rad support that would short out onto a side mount post if it had one.
 
Not sure my setup is original, but here you go. Crap i should wash the truck before i take pictures


main.php



main.php
 
Hey guys,

Thanks for all the info and replies... I ended up finding a prefabed cable with the top post mount terminal on one end and an eyelet end on the other at canadian tire for about $15 and it was #1 gauge.... Then used a mairne connector on the one with the eyelet and it worked well cause I could incorporate the 12V tap off for the horn and headlights with some simple connector mods....

The marine connectors don't leave much clearance to the hood though, so that is something you have to be leary of and when I get new batteries to not go any taller or else I will risk shorting out on the hood...

The whole job took me just a couple of hours and it starts like a charm.... I have deep cycle interstate batteries that I picked up relatively cheap... after a couple of hours driving the truck they seem very balanced when I put a voltmeter on they are at 12.23V and 12.43V... Any of you guys know how deep cycle interstate batteries fair for the dual battery configuration and charge balancing...

Thanks for the pics of your rig eleblanc, I don't think that is stock but very close to it... I got a schematic with picture from the dealership... the cross over cable is no longer available through Toyota they don't make it anymore and if it was it would be about $215 bucks, way too much anway, when you can make one for $30.... The cables that you have eleblanc have screw terminal connectros and the OEM were crimped, but it looks like the PO did a very tidy job on the crossover cable....

Thanks again guys... if anyway is going to take this job on let me know and I can send you some pics of my homemade crossover cable configuration...
 
I would not call the battereis "very balanced" at 12.23V and 12.43V.nor fully charged.. . and your imbalanced is likely caused from having a radio or some other 12 V draw on one of the batteries. If your BJ42 (I had a 1982 BJ42 for many years) sits long without daily driving & therefore charging, install a battery disconnect on the + line so current draw does not occur from a clock or radio etc. when the unit is not in use. Fully charged and balanced batteries are 12.7 volts +/- .1 if they are good batteries of the same make and batch number.
 
Thanks Memory, as you can tell I am a complete novice when it comes to LC's especially Diesels and especially 24V systems nor a whole lot of battery experience... I was happy when she turned over perfect and I was getting at least 0.5V balance, but I am not well versed in what a good charging system will have...

The truck is stock not having any aftermarket radios or clocks on it... the batteries did sit for a bit before I installed them, so that might explain the lower voltage....

One question I have got is that the lower voltage battery is the D-side which has a 12V tap coming off for the horns and headlights (from what I can tell), would this have anything to due with the inbalance as it is the only thing I can see that would put a greater load on the one battery versus the other.... if this is the case, what can I do to get them balanced??? should I try swaping them say every oil change....
 
Thanks Memory, as you can tell I am a complete novice when it comes to LC's especially Diesels and especially 24V systems nor a whole lot of battery experience... I was happy when she turned over perfect and I was getting at least 0.5V balance, but I am not well versed in what a good charging system will have...

The truck is stock not having any aftermarket radios or clocks on it... the batteries did sit for a bit before I installed them, so that might explain the lower voltage....

One question I have got is that the lower voltage battery is the D-side which has a 12V tap coming off for the horns and headlights (from what I can tell), would this have anything to due with the inbalance as it is the only thing I can see that would put a greater load on the one battery versus the other.... if this is the case, what can I do to get them balanced??? should I try swaping them say every oil change....


http://www.ericleblanc.com/gallery/g2data/albums/Eric/landcruiser/divers/electric/electric bj40.jpg

Has you can see on this diagram (top one) at position C1. There is to be only one tap between the battery and it is a wire for the headlight dimmer relay. Check how your horn should be wired with this diagram. Each line in the diagram has a color code for exemple RB, The first letter indicate basic color for the wire, the second indicates the spiral line color. Definition of code is shown in the lower right.

If you find the image too small you should have a zoom tool in internet explorer to see it full size, then you should be able to scroll left and right / up and down.

Are your battery exact same model? if not maybe that is the inbalance. But IMO if you do not have problems i wouldn't worry about it. If you have starting problems consider getting 2 brand new battery once you have removed any taps in between the battery.

I was having drainage issue for 6 years, for 6 years i brough the truck to 4 different garages. They all sold me new battery with a fency explanation how they solve my dead battery problem. None of them ever got or find the problem. Only when i found that diagram and checked my wires and found a mess that i finally got it solved. After i removed all my taps and reconnected some cut wires i got 2 new batteries. After that my truck stayed in my garage for 4 months this winter without a start and it started right up when i got it out of the garage.


My Original Question
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=106343

And follow up,
https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=106365

You should read it, it eventually wasn't caused by a tap, well kinda but not in between the batteries.


If you can, try to post up some pictures...
 
Last edited:
Thanks Eleblanc, I will take a look at it tonight and snap some pics of her... I know the guy didn't do to many mods and he doesn't have any aftermarket 12V stuff (that I can find anway), even checked the cigaratte lighter and it was 24V... but that is not to say I am missing something...

I do recall just he one tap off of the driver side negative terminal (closest to the rad) and it went down into a wireharness that looked to feed the lights but also had wires going horns but not sure... That wireharness then crosses under the rad and back along the front Passenger side fender into the firwall and up under the dash... There is also a branch that runs just firewall side of the P-side battery and I think goes to the alternator....

Does this sound like the original configuration.... I will try to get some pics of it up so that it better tells the story...

Thanks for the wiring diagram that will come in handy for sure..
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom