22re timing chain problems Help!

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T

toytruckman

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Jan 16, 2009
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3
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7
howdy ya'll, while reinstalling my head gasket and timing chain components i encountered a problem. the timing chain sprocket dosent line up with the camshaft, its a good 1/4 inch short. thinking that maybe it would line up after i tightened the head bolts but their pretty tight and shes still pretty short. do i need to adjust the tensioner? any info will be much appreciated.

mike
 
What do you mean doesn't line up?

If you mean the chain seems to short and you cannot get the cam sprocket on the cam while the chain is on the cam sprocket, then that is normal. You have to turn the cam a little bit with a punch to give you that extra 1/4 inch.

I think that is what you mean.

I would recommend reading some of the posts in the FAQ section on timing chains. It goes over this detail and is a must do if you want the timing marks to align.
 
I assume you already have the timing cover on. Try to sneak a prybar down on the left side, push in the tensioner, this should help give you more slack to get the top sprocket on.
 
pry bar under the cam sprocket NOT ON THE TEETH, the part that the bolt that holds it, touches


cam (leverage) the pry bar at the point the "hidden bolt" hole or "half moon gasket" is.

Hold pry bar with L or right hand.


Place any type of wrench you want on the crank. As long as you can turn it L & R.


Turn crank in minor increments, both L and Right. As you do it, apply gentle pressure to the pry bar. It will work its way up and slide right over the cam.

It may not go on all the way. More than likely the dowel will be misaligned. No biggie. Just get it on enough you can let it go, and turn the crank until it matches and slip'er right on.



BUT MAKE SURE, the match marks line up. A couple of teeth off and you might bend a valve. One or two and you should be o.k (as far as not bending any valves).
 
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I don't see why your cover is back on- I would have assumed he would not have put the cover back on not having the cam sprocket on.

I would not use a pry bar for any work having to do with the chain.

If you do it right, which you should be doing considering the importance of the chain AND the time involved in going back and redoing it, then all you need to do is what I suggested.

The marks should ALWAYS be lined up not a couple of teeth off. That is the point of having the marks. When you start making your own rules, that is when things fail in mechanics-of course, there are always exceptions but this sounds like his first time so let's go by the book ( :

Just my .02.
 
I assumed the cover was back on because I believe that is how the FSM tells you to assemble things, I call this "bottom-up assembly": oil pan, timing cover, cyl head, then force the upper sprocket on the cam. I prefer the "top down" approach: head, both sprockets on, install chain, then tensioner, then the cover and finally the oil pan. Much easier, but it's easier if you remove the pan, which we all know is a HUGE PITA on an IFS truck.

Kinda wish we would hear back from the OP, so we can help him better.
 
Agree on hearing back.

I taped the tensioner, bolted it up, put the cam/crank sprockets on and then let the tensioner go. Worked well for me. But you have to toggle the cam a couple of degrees with a punch.
 
FYI On the IFS trucks, you can unbolt the 2 rear mounts, an pivot the diff down on the one front mount. You don't have to disconnect the CV's, you do have to drop the end of the steering dampener, and disconnect the front drive shaft at the diff, and there is enough room to just squeeze the pan out on an angle starting at the drivers side. It's not ideal, but it does work, and it's what I did last time....

No body or drive train lift needed, but you may have to drop the sway bar, I don't know cause mine is laying behind my shed... :cheers:
 
2ndGenToyotaFan said:
FYI On the IFS trucks, you can unbolt the 2 rear mounts, an pivot the diff down on the one front mount. You don't have to disconnect the CV's, you do have to drop the end of the steering dampener, and disconnect the front drive shaft at the diff, and there is enough room to just squeeze the pan out on an angle starting at the drivers side. It's not ideal, but it does work, and it's what I did last time....
Click to expand...

That's way too much work. Just unbolt the engine and lift it up, snake the pan and oil pickup out.

Or do the right thing and cut all that IFS stuff off. :)
 
Yes, I have. Twice.

Lift the engine up as far as it will go, then shove some 2x4 scraps in the gaps at the engine mounts. Unbolt the fixed end of the steering stabilizer, swing it out of the way. The unbolt the pan, pry it off and reach in, unbolt the oil pickup tube. Pull them both out together.
 
yo
im having problems after finshing my top end rebuild timing chain replacment and new cam. i tried starting her up and she turns over but it dosent sound like the valves are opening. i think my chain might be off bout 1 link on the crankshaft sprocket. my manual told me to put the motor at TDC 0' but my top sprocket is sitting at about 1 o clock. is the 22re supposed to be set at BTDC 5' when timing chain is replaced? can i pry on the tensioner and try n jimmy a link over or do i have to take off the timing chain cover?
thanks mike
 
When the crank is at 0* the timing mark on the cam shaft sprocket should be at 11:30, not 1.... You're gonna have to take it apart again... Moving the chain a few links while it's together is very difficult, but not impossible....
 
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