22re temp gauge not working when t-stat removed.

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Uh oh....

Will that cause an issue with operation? Knocking or pinging? It runs ok right now...

How would I know what wire to look for? Can I run a new sensor/wire directly to the computer?


Where could I put the aftermarket sensor?
 
i do not think it will make it knock or ping, my wire broke one time and i never noticed anything, so not sure what it does, but i would look for the wire laying down around your intake, i need to look but it comes through with all the electronic FI wires, and like i told klf i had one auto vehicle that i stripped, and i have one intake with a second threaded hole right below the stock sending unit for the stock gauge, but there is a spot on the front of the intake where the cold start time switch and another sensor are that loos like it could be drilled out and tapped. you would want to do this with the intake off so that you could get all the metal flakes out.
 
The sender reads the coolant temp, and gives tuning information to the ECM - if it's hot, it'll read as a lean mixture, and add more fuel; starting cold, it'll restrict airflow at idle to help heat up the block; it'll throw up a SES light if the engine overheats regularly. It's just one of the many ways the ECM acts as the engine's "brain".

I doubt it'll cause too many problems short-term, but if you're having trouble with smog, lean fuel, or getting an error code from the ECM because it's missing something, that may be your cause.
 
The sender reads the coolant temp, and gives tuning information to the ECM - if it's hot, it'll read as a lean mixture, and add more fuel; starting cold, it'll restrict airflow at idle to help heat up the block; it'll throw up a SES light if the engine overheats regularly. It's just one of the many ways the ECM acts as the engine's "brain".

I doubt it'll cause too many problems short-term, but if you're having trouble with smog, lean fuel, or getting an error code from the ECM because it's missing something, that may be your cause.



Could that be a reason why I'm running warm on the HWY with a new v6 Radiator?

Or did I read it wrong?
 
I don't think it would be the cause of excessive heat, but if you are running lean, the computer may not be reading all the indicators (lean is usually read across Temp, O2 and MAF sensors).
It could be your aftermarket sender isn't calibrated right, your t-stat is bad, insufficient airflow across the radiator, ambient temp, or driving habit (lugging the motor will cause excessive heat)
It could also be bubbles in the coolant - without a reserve tank, or if the line were plugged, it wouldn't be able to "burp" the bubbles out. A worn water pump could be the problem, or a loose pulley on the WP, or gummed up hoses. worst-case scenario is rust buildup in the coolant passages of the head.
 
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