22re oil in coolant - problem diagnosis (1 Viewer)

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bandy rooster

bandy rooster

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Hello all,

Step-dads 94 pick up 22re with 200+k on it is leaking a large amount of oil into the coolant system. We did a compression test and it seems that it is the #1 cylinder that has lost compression and all the rest are fine. My first inclination was that it HAD to be the head gasket failing near the coolant port and the cylinder wall in the first cylinder.

...but the more I read about the plastic guides wearing out and failing i began to wonder, could this cause a leak? or does all common sense point to head gasket?

Lots of info out there about replacing head gaskets on these so I won't bother with those q's... just wondering IF it could be anything else before I tear into what could be a properly working HG.
 
just my opinion, you need to take the head off any how, to put a new gasket in so with that many miles the timing chain needs replacement too. so tear it down and see what is going on.

if you are trying to have everything you need to fix it fast, just order a re-gasket kit, i like felpro, then order a new timing chain cover, water pump, and oil pump, along with,the timing chain with metal guides.

but the head could be cracked, and that might require a new head too.

the bottom line is, you will need to tear the engine down, to see.
 
Whhhaaaaat? What is this talk of a puller? Never needed one. Installer? What is that?

You need to at least pull the valve cover and peer down behind the timing cover with a flashlight, see if the guides are OK. It's entirely possible that the guide has failed and the chain gnawed it's way thru a coolant passage.
 
I was speaking with a reputable mechanic just a few minutes ago and he was talking about the toyota 4 cylinders and how many head gaskets have probably been changed over the years that ended up being the guides failure allowing the chain to wear a thin line into the coolant passage (or something like that I was half :beer: but you spoke of a compression problem in cylinder 1 as well which makes me shy away from this possibility.
 
KLF did you click on the link? and it is a tool, and tools are cool!
it installs the pulley crank straight and true. that is all.

given the 200+k the OP described now would be a great time to put a new chain in, and freshen up the engine, especially if it is the original chain.
 
Of course I clicked on the link. My point is that I've pulled off dozens of those balancers, always by hand, I've never needed a puller to get one off (despite what the FSM says).

I remember the first time I had to remove one, to replace the front main seal. This was on my first Toyota, an '82 2WD pickup. I borrowed a puller, and was carefully attaching it to the balancer. I got it all attached, reached for a wrench to start cranking on it, heard a CLANK as the entire thing fell off the front of the engine to the floor, pulley and all.

And putting one back on... how can you screw that up? It's a nice tight fit sliding over the nose of the crank. I don't get it. The timing cover has indexing dowels on it, so placement is also automatic.
 
well klf i watched as i put one on with the bolt pressing it into the seal, and if you watch it closely it will wobble around as you tighten the bolt. not much, and probably not enough to fawk up the seal but it does, when you use the installer, it goes straight in no wobble. but since my first one i did, leaked, not because of installation even though i thought so at the time, it had a groove wore in it from the old seal and would not reseal, long story but, this is just my opinion, it is not that expensive so i bought one.

and i have never had one just fall off, i have tried to pull them off by hand and it would not budge, but then two or three cranks on the puller and it pulls right off.
 
In Mikes defence, on my 22r I had to use one the first time. It was jammed on there good. So I have one here just in case. I do know this aussie balencer is tight so I may need it again?

When I took off the cover the second time I didnt use the puller but I messed up the seal, I admit all that crap was worn but me jerking left too right didnt help. Dont ever buy that blasted sleeve kit, Its a waste of time
This thread pisses me off..........:mad: right after I read this thread I discovered my cover was leaking again, this time I may get a new cover. Apprantly, and I should have knew better, when I was taking the bolt out that holds the oem alt. for the new LC Enginerring kit bracket on, the bolts or some was wrong and loose I found myself going to fastenal and ordering correct bolts. The po really has cost me alot of time with this truck. At least I know the head, timing is good.

My point is make damn sure all the bolts are correct, label each one on a ziplock bag as you remove it , check the specs in the FSM to make sure its correct so there is no hairpulling later.


I have had some moisture for some time under the cap but I was blaming it on the front part of the PCV because I was leaving it undone from the Weber carb but when I fixed all of that with new filter I discovered a huge collection in the clear filter I installed.

I just started running Pennsoil Syn. racing oil so it was cleaning out the engine real well and making it obvious even more that I had a problem. I think LC/E makes this kit to block off the water lines on the back of the cover, I dont need them anymore cause I am going twith a seperate heating system for heating the inside with a heating unit I have at the store. I dont care about the liquid going to the intake, it isnt doing s*** for me.
 
cruiser88 said:
My point is make damn sure all the bolts are correct, label each one on a ziplock bag as you remove it...
Click to expand...

What I have been doing as I tear my truck apart is put all the bolts into egg cartons, then I write on the lid above the "cell" what the bolt/part is for. I have over a dozen cartons filled and cataloged on my bench now.

For the engine stuff like the timing cover, I have a board with a trace of the timing cover on it, then I drilled holes where each bolt goes. As I removed each bolt, I screwed it into the corresponding spot on the board.

I also am taking tons of pictures as I go along, keep my camera on the bench as I work.
 
thats even a better idea, I am starting in the am.
KLF said:
What I have been doing as I tear my truck apart is put all the bolts into egg cartons, then I write on the lid above the "cell" what the bolt/part is for. I have over a dozen cartons filled and cataloged on my bench now.

For the engine stuff like the timing cover, I have a board with a trace of the timing cover on it, then I drilled holes where each bolt goes. As I removed each bolt, I screwed it into the corresponding spot on the board.

I also am taking tons of pictures as I go along, keep my camera on the bench as I work.
Click to expand...
 
unrelated to the initial thread but since we are speaking of precautions isnt there one of the timing cover bolts that needs to be sealed or it will leak oil around the bolt making you think your crank pulley is leaking?
 
toy4xfun said:
also do not forget the bolt that is in the front of the head, that goes into the top of the timing cover!
Click to expand...

Usually under a pool of oil and can be a major set back your first time. I remember thinking that the head gasket was stuck to the top of the timing cover, then I finally found the bolt.

Make sure that headgasket isn't damaged in the process or you will leak oil between the TC and head.
 
If something happends that you remove the cover and JUST happen to damage the head gasket that only serves as a gasket for the timing cover(which is a big deal as mentioned above)

you can buy cork on a roll and add a much better gasket than trying to cut another piece of a headgasket and re-inserting. :rolleyes:

Sometimes it dont pay to listen to the now ex......"would you hurry up cause I cant take this baby to the mall with me"

You grab the timing cover, shove it in there not realizing you just bent the hell out of the gasket then you find yourself asking "now wtf do I do?"
 
Ok, took the timing cover off which was a fun time - the timing chain had been replaced by the PO and used standard plastic guides that were still in place. I did have the feeling that he also did not want to remove the head while installing the new timing chain, my inclination of this was peaked when I found globs of black RTV at the top of the timing cover where is uses the latter part of the headgasket to seal the top of the Timing cover. I inspected the timing cover and there was the previous grooves from the timing chain before this one but could not notice any major cracks that could result in that much oil in the coolant system, if any. Regadless I am not 100% convinced that a crack in the timing cover caused the oil in the coolant situation. But I had looked at like the processes of diffusion, my hypothesis was that the oil pressure is easily operating at 50 psi more then coolant and this is why I am finding all the oil in the coolant but no coolant in the oil, which I feel is good because thus far I don't think it has caused any engine wear/damage beyond normal use, but that is just speculation.

I am wondering if it would be possible for a worn or missing gasket or the top camshaft cover bolt leaking could cause the condition of " oil in coolant, but no coolant in oil". Could anyone with more background info on 22re's oil/coolant system confirm/deny that this is possible? I know the right thing to do is just rip the head off and replace the HG, but I'm fxxxing tired and so god damn busy with work n class - but if it is possible that it is still the problem I'll take the head off tomorrow since it is probably the right thing to do. But let me know how you feel
 
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