2017 with 160k (1 Viewer)

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Jul 31, 2019
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Heber City, UT
Been looking for a 200 series for quite awhile now but hesitant to drop $60k+ on a 2016+. Been in talks with an individual with a one owner 2017 with almost 160k on the clock. We’re talking just under $50k sales price. Sounds like a great deal but mileage is holding me up. I have a 100 series with 250k that runs like a dream so I know these stand the test of time. But am I a fool to be considering a 2017 with high miles?? Good maintenance records, one owner.
 
Been looking for a 200 series for quite awhile now but hesitant to drop $60k+ on a 2016+. Been in talks with an individual with a one owner 2017 with almost 160k on the clock. We’re talking just under $50k sales price. Sounds like a great deal but mileage is holding me up. I have a 100 series with 250k that runs like a dream so I know these stand the test of time. But am I a fool to be considering a 2017 with high miles?? Good maintenance records, one owner.
If it has a documented maintenance history, hasn’t been in a serious accident, and isn’t beat up I would not be too concerned with the mileage. Unfortunately Toyota isn’t making any more so the price is what it is.
 
I think if I was spending $50k on another 200 series (My current 08 has 262k on it) I'd be hesitant to spend $50k on one with that high of mileage. Sure, limited supply has prices going up, but you're going to see a LOT of depreciation still. Slightly older trucks with that kind of mileage are in the mid 30s or less, which is what yours will be worth in a few years. As great as these are, the number of people that will spend $30-40k on a vehicle with this high mileage is really low. And while these do great for many miles, you will have things wear and need replacement as the miles creep up. Unless you just have to have a 2016+ (and I agree they are the best looking), I'd spend $30-35k on a 2011-2015 with the same before I'd pay the premium for a newer truck with the same mileage.
 
Here’s one and you could probably squeeze them on price a little or have them include shipping.


More mileage then one above
 
Ignoring inflation for a moment...

In Jan 2016 I bought a 2013 model year with 49k miles. It had been used for 25 months and was Toyota CPO. I paid $48k for essentially a <3 year old vehicle

You're looking at a ~5 year old vehicle with 160k for $60k. I know used car inflation is like 50% over the last 12-18 months, but I still think $60k is high. In comparison Carvana has a 2015 that they just sold that supposedly had 15k miles on it and it went for $60k. And Autonation has a 2013 with 140k that is selling for $38k (FYI they will ship vehicles around the country to your local AutoNation dealer if you ask)



As far as buying an LC/LX with 160k miles... if it's well cared for I'd say it has about half it's life left. You may well get more than 320k miles, but I think anyone who counts on going more than 300k without having to put a bunch of $ into their vehicle is short-sighted.

FWIW you can typically find a used LX for less than an LC, so if you just want a 200-series and don't care about the badge you should consider an LX as well. Carvana shows several 2016+ in the ~$60k range with 100k miles LESS than the LC you're looking at.

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Ignoring inflation for a moment...

In Jan 2016 I bought a 2013 model year with 49k miles. It had been used for 25 months and was Toyota CPO. I paid $48k for essentially a <3 year old vehicle

You're looking at a ~5 year old vehicle with 160k for $60k. I know used car inflation is like 50% over the last 12-18 months, but I still think $60k is high. In comparison Carvana has a 2015 that they just sold that supposedly had 15k miles on it and it went for $60k. And Autonation has a 2013 with 140k that is selling for $38k (FYI they will ship vehicles around the country to your local AutoNation dealer if you ask)



As far as buying an LC/LX with 160k miles... if it's well cared for I'd say it has about half it's life left. You may well get more than 320k miles, but I think anyone who counts on going more than 300k without having to put a bunch of $ into their vehicle is short-sighted.

FWIW you can typically find a used LX for less than an LC, so if you just want a 200-series and don't care about the badge you should consider an LX as well. Carvana shows several 2016+ in the ~$60k range with 100k miles LESS than the LC you're looking at.

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Appreciate the insight. The seller and I are at $48k. That change your opinion at all? I plan on having this for the next 10 years, don’t drive a ton so would expect about 10,000/year. So in 10 years have a 15 year old truck with 250k on it. Then maybe pass it on to my future 16 year old 😆😆
 
Appreciate the insight. The seller and I are at $48k. That change your opinion at all? I plan on having this for the next 10 years, don’t drive a ton so would expect about 10,000/year. So in 10 years have a 15 year old truck with 250k on it. Then maybe pass it on to my future 16 year old 😆😆
It really depends on your goal with the truck and financial situation. If your plan is to keep it stock and you're really set on a 2016+ LC then somewhere in the 40-45k range seems reasonable to me, given there's a 140k mile 2013 on Autonation for $39k. Again Carvana has a 2013 LX with 76k miles for $47k, so if your goal is a 200-series and you don't care about LC vs LX I'd encourage you to look at those as well.

When I was buying my plan was to finance for 5 years, so I was looking for a good condition recent off-lease with low mileage as I didn't want to risk a big expense if something went wrong. I looked at a ~100k mile 2008 LX at the time which was ~$32k but IMO was overpriced by a few grand and so I passed on it because at the time my target was "trade in + $15k out the door" and with tax I would've been into it about $18-19k. I ended up financing ~$35k (including tax) for a newer truck with half the mileage, but I was OK with that because it was warrantied and when I considered that I drive ~12k miles/year it meant I was spending ~$16k more for an extra 4-5 years of ownership. Ultimately I spent about 6 months before I found the vehicle I ended up with.

My $0.02 - consider an LX and buy the best condition (accident and rust free) vehicle you can find for what you can afford. IMO it's worth spending $5-10k more on these trucks if you can get one with half the mileage. That's not to say a high mileage truck is bad, but given the depreciation curve flattens out a lot if you look at the purchase in terms of $/remaining miles you'll find that's the best bargain. i.e.

Assuming all trucks go 320k miles before requiring some significant $ (meaning your truck has 50% of it's usable life left):
  1. Carvana: A 2020 LC with 9k miles costs $101k = $0.32/mile
  2. Autonation: A 2013 LC with 132k costs $39k = $0.22/mile
  3. Carvana: A 2013 LX with 76k miles costs $47k = $0.20/mile
  4. Carmax: A 2013 LX with 53k miles costs $49k = $0.18/mile
  5. Your dealer: A 2016 LC with 160k miles negotiated for ~$48k = $0.30/mile
Obviously the above is a gross oversimplification, but it's one of the methods I used when I was looking around.
 
Appreciate the insight. The seller and I are at $48k. That change your opinion at all? I plan on having this for the next 10 years, don’t drive a ton so would expect about 10,000/year. So in 10 years have a 15 year old truck with 250k on it. Then maybe pass it on to my future 16 year old 😆😆
Not advising one way or the other.
I figure that kind of miles must be a lot of highway driving. Generally, a vehicle on the road (as opposed to a boat or plane) is under little stress. For example, brakes can last quite awhile if they aren't used much. Contrast to stop and go city/suburban driving. Vehicle gets warmed, parked, then heat soaked - that's the life (for now anyway) of my 200. So, I baby the bejesus out of it (oil changes, etc.)
In April of '21 I bought a LX450 w/372k miles. It passed CA smog. Highway miles AND babied.
I completely rebuilt it 'cause I wanted to. Cylinders still had hone Mark's, no rebore needed.
Good luck with your purchase. LX570s might be the best deal.
 
If your plan is to put few miles on it then the high mileage issue will become less of one over time. Plus as others mentioned it has the benefit of most likely being primarily freeway.. less cold starts, less brake wear, likely not towing heavy..

Any rust at all?

Personally I’m torn on 2016+. I prefer the look over the 13 I have now, the brakes are better, I think I’d like the 8spd and the gearing is better for off-road work, but don’t think I’d appreciate the added complexity of the cameras for crash avoidance, and it seems the leather seats and especially steering wheel are less durable.

But they will all be expensive.

My truck is at 175k and as an indicator of quality on original front ball joints and they are drum tight.
 
It really depends on your goal with the truck and financial situation. If your plan is to keep it stock and you're really set on a 2016+ LC then somewhere in the 40-45k range seems reasonable to me, given there's a 140k mile 2013 on Autonation for $39k. Again Carvana has a 2013 LX with 76k miles for $47k, so if your goal is a 200-series and you don't care about LC vs LX I'd encourage you to look at those as well.

When I was buying my plan was to finance for 5 years, so I was looking for a good condition recent off-lease with low mileage as I didn't want to risk a big expense if something went wrong. I looked at a ~100k mile 2008 LX at the time which was ~$32k but IMO was overpriced by a few grand and so I passed on it because at the time my target was "trade in + $15k out the door" and with tax I would've been into it about $18-19k. I ended up financing ~$35k (including tax) for a newer truck with half the mileage, but I was OK with that because it was warrantied and when I considered that I drive ~12k miles/year it meant I was spending ~$16k more for an extra 4-5 years of ownership. Ultimately I spent about 6 months before I found the vehicle I ended up with.

My $0.02 - consider an LX and buy the best condition (accident and rust free) vehicle you can find for what you can afford. IMO it's worth spending $5-10k more on these trucks if you can get one with half the mileage. That's not to say a high mileage truck is bad, but given the depreciation curve flattens out a lot if you look at the purchase in terms of $/remaining miles you'll find that's the best bargain. i.e.

Assuming all trucks go 320k miles before requiring some significant $ (meaning your truck has 50% of it's usable life left):
  1. Carvana: A 2020 LC with 9k miles costs $101k = $0.32/mile
  2. Autonation: A 2013 LC with 132k costs $39k = $0.22/mile
  3. Carvana: A 2013 LX with 76k miles costs $47k = $0.20/mile
  4. Carmax: A 2013 LX with 53k miles costs $49k = $0.18/mile
  5. Your dealer: A 2016 LC with 160k miles negotiated for ~$48k = $0.30/mile
Obviously the above is a gross oversimplification, but it's one of the methods I used when I was looking around.

I liked this analysis. Hadn't thought about it that way.

OP, while my recent 2008 LX is different from the 2017 you're considering, I bought mine with 158k miles; so almost the identical mileage you are looking at. My numbers would be:


- Private Party: 2008 LX w/ 158k miles costs $24,400 = $0.15/mile assuming 320k miles.
 
You are looking to buy what is arguably Toyota's best vehicle. It is also by far their most robust and durable. You have to change your paradigm when considering a 200 series.
Recent study showed that almost 20% of 200 series will go over 200K miles. Longest-Lasting Cars, Suvs, and Trucks to Reach 200,000 Miles and Beyond - iSeeCars.com - https://www.iseecars.com/longest-lasting-cars-study
Having driven these and seen these driven in very 'challenging' overseas locations, I can tell you that they are well regarded and 160K is about 1/3 of their life on original components under reasonable use.
I put 60K on mine in the first year. Regular fluid maintenance and tires is all it asked for.
This is not the old paradigm of vehicle life ending at 100K. 80 series LC are routinely selling with over 200K for unbelievable prices and those are 30 years old.
Folks are just starting to realize how overbuilt these vehicles truly are.
Heads of State, Presidents and Prime Ministers overseas are routinely driven around in 200 series LC for a reason. Overseas military use of these are due to the fact they are extremely well built and durable.
Price is a little high-agreed however, I would not bat an eyelash on a well maintained 160K mile 200 series.
 
Buy what your wallet and conscience allow. I too am a sucker for the 2016+ facelift and all of the other perks that it provides. I still think the '13-15 MY provide the best overall deal in a 200 and I wouldn't rule one out if I were shopping.
 
You are looking to buy what is arguably Toyota's best vehicle. It is also by far their most robust and durable. You have to change your paradigm when considering a 200 series.
Recent study showed that almost 20% of 200 series will go over 200K miles. Longest-Lasting Cars, Suvs, and Trucks to Reach 200,000 Miles and Beyond - iSeeCars.com - https://www.iseecars.com/longest-lasting-cars-study
Having driven these and seen these driven in very 'challenging' overseas locations, I can tell you that they are well regarded and 160K is about 1/3 of their life on original components under reasonable use.
I put 60K on mine in the first year. Regular fluid maintenance and tires is all it asked for.
This is not the old paradigm of vehicle life ending at 100K. 80 series LC are routinely selling with over 200K for unbelievable prices and those are 30 years old.
Folks are just starting to realize how overbuilt these vehicles truly are.
Heads of State, Presidents and Prime Ministers overseas are routinely driven around in 200 series LC for a reason. Overseas military use of these are due to the fact they are extremely well built and durable.
Price is a little high-agreed however, I would not bat an eyelash on a well maintained 160K mile 200 series.
Yeah I'd agree they should go 450-500k miles, but I've definitely seen people with 350k need to do an engine or transmission, which can be pretty expensive. My point wasn't that it's worth nothing at 320k, I just used that as an easy number to infer that after that point there could be some large-ish expenses to consider. Sort of like how businesses might still use stuff after they've depreciated it... not that it's unusable but the expected "trouble free' life has likely passed. A much less simplified calculation would involve those sorts of failure rates/scenarios/costs with a longer lifetime.

I'll be happy if I go 300k without any major issues. I told my kids I want the truck to go 500k (to the moon and back), and then I'll give it to one of them :)
 
If you have an oem rear diff lock you should check also the housing of it since Toyota made here a pretty bad material combination.
 
Yeah I'd agree they should go 450-500k miles, but I've definitely seen people with 350k need to do an engine or transmission, which can be pretty expensive. My point wasn't that it's worth nothing at 320k, I just used that as an easy number to infer that after that point there could be some large-ish expenses to consider. Sort of like how businesses might still use stuff after they've depreciated it... not that it's unusable but the expected "trouble free' life has likely passed. A much less simplified calculation would involve those sorts of failure rates/scenarios/costs with a longer lifetime.

I'll be happy if I go 300k without any major issues. I told my kids I want the truck to go 500k (to the moon and back), and then I'll give it to one of them :)
Having owned LCs since 1987, purchased new, and driven to stratospheric mileages, I think it all comes down to maintenance. I change all fluids every 90k. Any issues mechanically, I fix immediately. My 100 has yet to require a significant repair and I have driven it since 1998.
 
Having owned LCs since 1987, purchased new, and driven to stratospheric mileages, I think it all comes down to maintenance. I change all fluids every 90k. Any issues mechanically, I fix immediately. My 100 has yet to require a significant repair and I have driven it since 1998.
That's true, though some of it is the conditions it's driven under (is it a suburban mall cruiser or is it used to tow/offroad/etc regularly? is it a dry southern vehicle or is it from a salty winter area? etc) and some of it I think is just dumb luck (cam tower leaks, for instance, seem to have no rhyme or reason as to who they hit and who they miss).
 
That's true, though some of it is the conditions it's driven under (is it a suburban mall cruiser or is it used to tow/offroad/etc regularly? is it a dry southern vehicle or is it from a salty winter area? etc) and some of it I think is just dumb luck (cam tower leaks, for instance, seem to have no rhyme or reason as to who they hit and who they miss).
Maybe dumb luck. My 100 lives in coastal Alaska but has been from the Arctic to Ushuaia, including Mexico many times. These things just work if properly maintained. And I have been lucky enough not to get in a bad accident.
 
All good info, much appreciated. I still have no idea what I'm going to do though! Would primarily be a family hauler with occasional trips up to the mountains. I'd probably be more convinced if it was lower $40s. Going through all this effort to find a 200 series, and now my wife just caught a glimpse of the new Sequoia 😬
 
About the current prices. I paid $57k for my 2013 LX in 2014 with 5,200 miles on it…. It was a service loaner that the sales manager drove and Inserviced to me as “new” in terms of warranty date. They had 2 new LC’s and 6 new LX’s on the lot at the time and they were all priced to move
 

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