2010 LX570 TRANSMISSION ISSUE

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TTO5

TTO5

10 Year 15 Year
Joined
Oct 26, 2010
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909
My beloved truck has 250k on it. Today I experienced a scary situation. It was 53 degrees out when I started up the truck to go to work. I started driving and noticed a weird blip and then no upshift into 4th gear. MY scanguage displays current trans gear and was showing 3rd gear at 60 mph which was like 3500 rpm. The drive continued like that for about 5 minutes not going above third gear. I accelerated pretty hard and it shifted properly up to 6th gear. The rest of my commute was fine with no symptoms. I retrieved the following codes from the scanguage; P2714, PO761
Is my trans shot? I have lost confidence in the truck now especially because we have a 1000 mile trip coming up in a couple weeks. Fluid was drained and filled about a year ago (15k miles ago) am i screwed?

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The service manual kind of points toward a solenoid shift valve that might have intermittently stuck. I'd clear the codes and see if it comes up again. Sometimes a valve can stick for whatever reason and not be a bigger issue than maybe a particle in the oil. It's hard to say if you're screwed or not based on one occurrence.

Mileage certainly does erode the confidence a bit. I'm at 230K miles and often worried about when the inevitable failure will appear.
 
Are these transmissions so fragile to worry about end of life at 250k? In old Toyotas 300k was just something to look in the rearview mirror at.
 
doru said:
Are these transmissions so fragile to worry about end of life at 250k? In old Toyotas 300k was just something to look in the rearview mirror at.
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No, there are a great many AB60F transmissions that last well beyond 250k....even multiples of 250k. Victor Shepard had 860,000 miles on his AB60F when he swapped it out on his 2nd "million mile" Tundra.
 
Could be a bad solenoid. Might either need to replace the solenoid(s) or just the entire valvebody with solenoids. Not a difficult DIY job.
 
I cleared those codes multiple times over the course of a year or so. Had some intermittent issues as you described above. Also had intermittent issues going into reverse. Probably could’ve just kept clearing and driving, but I went down rabbit hole after rabbit hole attempting to fix. Ended up replacing transmission eventually.
 
Sorry to hear another transmission potentially bite the dust.

@TTO5 , any particular stressing use cases in your ownership other than miles?
 
What’s the long term maintenance history and use history of the transmission? Was that fluid drain and fill the first in 235k miles? How much fluid was exchanged? How has the LC been used?
 
It’s probably a stuck solenoid.

Drain the fluid and look for any sparkles in it. If you see any the stuck solenoid likely caused a lot of wear. You might be able to drop the pan and change the bad solenoid(s) and then exchange the fluid to get any material out, but honestly if you see any sparkles in the oil you likely need a new transmission and torque converter because of this. It’s about $6500 all in. Ask me how I know.
 
I had the fluid drained and filled about everything 50k miles. I bought the truck with 120k on it and saw at least 1 fluid replacement in the prior history. Truck is used lightly to commute 40 miles per day. I towed snowmobile trailers a few times per winter and a 20 ft boat weight around 4k pounds. No trail use. I am pretty gentle on my vehicles. I have the added benefit of being a parts counterman at my toyota dealership for the past couple years and 20 plus years as a service advisor with a few different dealerships. I've driven the truck now a couple days since the incident and it hasn't repeated itself yet.
 
The fact that it was intermittent definitely points to a solenoid. The solenoids either open or close depending on voltage applied and cause the fluid pressure to change which causes the clutches to engage or release. If it was a bad clutch it wouldn’t fix itself

My hot take is find a mechanic willing to source and swap the solenoids. The clutches in your transmission may go 500k, but if the solenoid sticks and you keep driving it you’re essentially “riding the clutch” for miles, slowly wearing them away. You might not have an issue for another 50-100k miles, but more likely it’ll creep up again a few times until you slowly wear out the clutches. New solenoids might cost $1000-1200 with a fluid change but it’s 1/5th or 1/6th the cost of a new transmission, and I can speak from experience that driving when it’s not properly engaging gears is bad bad bad.
 
linuxgod said:
The fact that it was intermittent definitely points to a solenoid. The solenoids either open or close depending on voltage applied and cause the fluid pressure to change which causes the clutches to engage or release. If it was a bad clutch it wouldn’t fix itself

My hot take is find a mechanic willing to source and swap the solenoids. The clutches in your transmission may go 500k, but if the solenoid sticks and you keep driving it you’re essentially “riding the clutch” for miles, slowly wearing them away. You might not have an issue for another 50-100k miles, but more likely it’ll creep up again a few times until you slowly wear out the clutches. New solenoids might cost $1000-1200 with a fluid change but it’s 1/5th or 1/6th the cost of a new transmission, and I can speak from experience that driving when it’s not properly engaging gears is bad bad bad.
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So driving when not properly engaging only happens when the condition i had (won't shift above 3rd gear) is present or it could be doing damage with no symptoms? Hope that question made sense. Been a couple more days now and still doing fine. No codes in pending or current.
 
TTO5 said:
I had the fluid drained and filled about everything 50k miles. I bought the truck with 120k on it and saw at least 1 fluid replacement in the prior history. Truck is used lightly to commute 40 miles per day. I towed snowmobile trailers a few times per winter and a 20 ft boat weight around 4k pounds. No trail use. I am pretty gentle on my vehicles. I have the added benefit of being a parts counterman at my toyota dealership for the past couple years and 20 plus years as a service advisor with a few different dealerships. I've driven the truck now a couple days since the incident and it hasn't repeated itself yet.
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Sounds like you did everything as well as could be expected and the rig lived a readably gentle life. Despite all that, sometimes it's just luck? Hope it resolved itself but let us know how things work out going forward.

@linuxgod 's assessment seems spot on. A bugger will get in the wrong place causing the transmission to slip where it otherwise wouldn't. Also good to know these clutches are sized for significant life provided everything else stays in good working order.
 
TTO5 said:
So driving when not properly engaging only happens when the condition i had (won't shift above 3rd gear) is present or it could be doing damage with no symptoms? Hope that question made sense. Been a couple more days now and still doing fine. No codes in pending or current.
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If the transmission is engaged and holding gears I would think it’s fine, but I’m not a mechanic despite playing one on the forum
 
Update. It only happened 1 more time and set the same codes with the same symptom of not shifting above 3rd gear. It quickly came out of it with a jab on the gas pedal. Is there anything to diagnose here? With as infrequent as this occurs will a tech be able to diagnose? I am asking this even though I work at a toyota dealer as a parts counterman. Is this enough to just replace the trans? Fluid level ok, was drained and filled 15k ago. No leaks. Should I wait for more frequent symptoms? It feels a little premature to just replace it based on those 2 instances . I am not interested nor do I have anyone here at work to open this trans up and start replacing parts. It has 250k on it after all. Truck still looks great, everything works, suspension was rebuilt, new rack, engine replaced with a 45k mile (engine replaced 15k miles ago) . Original engine lost a head gasket. Trans will cost me 4500 with labor. I have no plans to get rid of the vehicle. I guess i am asking if it's foolish to replace the trans before more problems kick up with the current trans or wait till it happens more often (if it happens again at all). Sorry for the long ranting.
 
TTO5 said:
Update. It only happened 1 more time and set the same codes with the same symptom of not shifting above 3rd gear. It quickly came out of it with a jab on the gas pedal. Is there anything to diagnose here? With as infrequent as this occurs will a tech be able to diagnose? I am asking this even though I work at a toyota dealer as a parts counterman. Is this enough to just replace the trans? Fluid level ok, was drained and filled 15k ago. No leaks. Should I wait for more frequent symptoms? It feels a little premature to just replace it based on those 2 instances . I am not interested nor do I have anyone here at work to open this trans up and start replacing parts. It has 250k on it after all. Truck still looks great, everything works, suspension was rebuilt, new rack, engine replaced with a 45k mile (engine replaced 15k miles ago) . Original engine lost a head gasket. Trans will cost me 4500 with labor. I have no plans to get rid of the vehicle. I guess i am asking if it's foolish to replace the trans before more problems kick up with the current trans or wait till it happens more often (if it happens again at all). Sorry for the long ranting.
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A you get someone to fire up a copy of Techstream and read the codes? If the transmission ecu is attempting to shift but a solenoid is sticking that should show up as a stored code.

A failed solenoid will eventually burn up the transmission. But these transmissions can go 400-500k so unless you were already having issues with it slipping you really shouldn’t ignore what’s happening.

If you don’t want to spend $4500 (which is a deal… this is typically a $6k repair), have someone pull the code, post it here and we can use the FSM to diagnose which solenoid it is, then have them drop the pan and replace it. I think the solenoids are $300 or so. Add to that 4 quarts of ATF, a new pan gasket, and the labor and you’re probably in the $600-800 range, which is a fairly cheap repair. (While you’re in there, swap the transmission filter because it’s cheap and it’s right there).
 
linuxgod said:
A you get someone to fire up a copy of Techstream and read the codes? If the transmission ecu is attempting to shift but a solenoid is sticking that should show up as a stored code.

A failed solenoid will eventually burn up the transmission. But these transmissions can go 400-500k so unless you were already having issues with it slipping you really shouldn’t ignore what’s happening.

If you don’t want to spend $4500 (which is a deal… this is typically a $6k repair), have someone pull the code, post it here and we can use the FSM to diagnose which solenoid it is, then have them drop the pan and replace it. I think the solenoids are $300 or so. Add to that 4 quarts of ATF, a new pan gasket, and the labor and you’re probably in the $600-800 range, which is a fairly cheap repair. (While you’re in there, swap the transmission filter because it’s cheap and it’s right there).
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I gave the codes at the beginning of my post.
Is that good enough?
 
GrouchyTech said:
The solenoid codes on these transmissions tend to indicate there are other issues with the transmission, not with the solenoids themselves.
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Yeah i think I am just going to have then put a trans in it due to mileage and I don't want to be chasing this issue going forward.
 
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