2010 LX Tailgate Won't Open (1 Viewer)

[pkfj60]

I recently purchased a 2010 LX570 and need to sort out a couple issues. First on my plate is the rear tailgate. When the truck is running the upper hatch and tailgate function properly. When the truck is not running, and unlocked, the upper hatch will open with the fob and the button on the bottom of the hatch. However, the tailgate will not open. I have tried locking and unlocking with the fob, locking and unlocking with the driver's door switch and had no luck. I opened up the tailgate, and all the wiring and mechanisms look good.

Any ideas?

 

[phatairman]

You have to manually open the lower tailgate. That's not automatic.

 

[pkfj60]

You have to manually open the lower tailgate. That's not automatic.

I understand that. I was not under the impression that it is automatic.

Perhaps I was not clear in my explanation. When I pull the lever, it does not release to be let down when the car is not running. While it is running I can pull the lever and it will open. The lever has the exact same feel whether the car is running or not, it just will not open when the car is off.

 

[Markuson]

I understand that. I was not under the impression that it is automatic.

Perhaps I was not clear in my explanation. When I pull the lever, it does not release to be let down when the car is not running. While it is running I can pull the lever and it will open. The lever has the exact same feel whether the car is running or not, it just will not open when the car is off.

You should be able to access the inside of the tailgate if necessary which will allow you to manually pull the cables themselves.

To do this, remove both little storage space lids on the tailgate... Remove any screws inside (can’t remember number, if any).

With lids off and any screws out (maybe a couple screws), you can then pry under the edge of the plastic housing (the large plastic rectangle you see...)

Pry up around the edge of the full rectangle and pull hard. The entire rectangle will pull out as it’s only on with clips (of screws removed from inside storage spaces).

With rectangle out, you will be able to see two cables that get pulled when you work the release lever. You may need to grab a couple pair of pliers and manually pull both cables inward. This should release it and then you can grease the clasps if necessary, or at least try and see what’s going on. Could be the cables are not fully secured to the lever mechanism...

If it STILL won’t release... try pushing inward on the tailgate (as if closing it more fully), and try the lever/ cables again while pushing in on it.

To put rectangle top surface back in...just line it up...and pop it back in (clips allow this). Put screws back in.

 

[pkfj60]

You should be able to access the inside of the tailgate if necessary which will allow you to manually pull the cables themselves.

To do this, remove both little storage space lids on the tailgate... Remove any screws inside (can’t remember number, if any).

With lids off and any screws out (maybe a couple screws), you can then pry under the edge of the plastic housing (the large plastic rectangle you see...)

Pry up around the edge of the full rectangle and pull hard. The entire rectangle will pull out as it’s only on with clips (of screws removed from inside storage spaces).

With rectangle out, you will be able to see two cables that get pulled when you work the release lever. You may need to grab a couple pair of pliers and manually pull both cables inward. This should release it and then you can grease the clasps if necessary, or at least try and see what’s going on. Could be the cables are not fully secured to the lever mechanism...

If it STILL won’t release... try pushing inward on the tailgate (as if closing it more fully), and try the lever/ cables again while pushing in on it.

To put rectangle top surface back in...just line it up...and pop it back in (clips allow this). Put screws back in.

The mechanism works fine. I did not see any issue with it when I opened it. The tailgate will open just fine, as long as the truck is running. The problem is that when the truck is off, and unlocked, the tailgate will NOT open.

 

[Markuson]

The mechanism works fine. I did not see any issue with it when I opened it. The tailgate will open just fine, as long as the truck is running. The problem is that when the truck is off, and unlocked, the tailgate will NOT open.

Hmmm... Maybe it needs the vibration to free the greasy clasps? Try just banging on the tailgate a bit (vibrations) while holding the handle and see if it releases. If it does, it might just be really bummed up grease in the clasps that grab the bars when it closes.

Very weird bc I don’t think the tailgate is power dependent (hatch is as you know, but not tail)...but even so, try it with accessory power on but engine off. Will it allow you to open if the truck power is on, but engine off?

 

[Ali FJ80]

Lower tailgate on the LX has a self closing/lock mechanism that is powered also. It does not flip up but you dont slam it shut, you let it click and then it pulls the tailgate in slowly to the locked position. I would use a techstream and see if you have a code or if you dont have one disconnect the negative battery terminal for a while and let the ecu reset and see.

 

[loop737]

From your description, it seems some electrical relay or switch is malfunctioning, good luck finding it. I have a 2015 and I find these electrical switches everywhere really annoying. Why they find the need to install a needlessly complex system like this on a freakin tailgate is utterly beyond me. A simple mechanical latch and that thing would open from now till the zombie apocalypse.

 

[pkfj60]

From your description, it seems some electrical relay or switch is malfunctioning, good luck finding it. I have a 2015 and I find these electrical switches everywhere really annoying. Why they find the need to install a needlessly complex system like this on a freakin tailgate is utterly beyond me. A simple mechanical latch and that thing would open from now till the zombie apocalypse.

No kidding. I'm not sure what the problem was with a purely mechanical switch.

I'll try putting the car in accessory mode and see where that gets me. I'll have to dig into the manual to figure out how to do that. With no luck, I'll disconnect the battery tonight and see if that produces any results.

I'll have to get a techstream, but probably not a bad investment. Next on the list is a 3rd row seat that will not tilt up to the side. I checked the fuse and that's all good, but I'll save it for another thread.

 

[bloc]

Why they find the need to install a needlessly complex system like this on a freakin tailgate is utterly beyond me. A simple mechanical latch and that thing would open from now till the zombie apocalypse.

It is an odd paradox here that a vehicle that is built to deal with an apocalypse has to cost $80k+, but the people that can afford that demand things like soft close tailgates.

I'll try putting the car in accessory mode and see where that gets me.

Sit in car with key, hit on/off/start button once without foot on brake. That is accessory mode. Stereo and auto steering wheel position, as I recall. Pressing again turns ignition on, but still won’t start with foot off brake.

 

[pkfj60]

Okay. Tailgate is functioning properly in accessory mode. Tried again withe truck off and the tailgate would not open again. Disconnected battery for an hour, and that did not help after hooking it back up.

 

[LBridges]

If it works with engine on and works with ACC, but not working when OFF, then that makes me think there is a battery level fuse that isn't providing power. And that the system may be drawing power from a fused line switched on/off by the ignition system.

A quick look by me shows what looks like several fused lines going into the body ECU that controls the rear tailgate power locks. Some look to be battery level and at least one that is ignition switched. If like me you lack a bit in being able to trace through wiring, I'd suggest pulling fuses one by one and making sure they all were OK. In past experience with Toyota cars I've found weird fuse combinations can be involved for a single function.

Do you have the factory manual and a Volt-Ohm meter? How are you at reading/tracing wiring diagrams? I think you need the overall electrical diagrams and the vehicle exterior repair manual. The latter has Ohm values that can be tested. You would undoubtedly need to do the physical part described by @Markuson above in order the get to the electrical connectors.

Keep in mind I could be totally off base here, it just really seems to be a power dependent thing, so that's why I leaned on that.

 

[phatairman]

I understand that. I was not under the impression that it is automatic.

My bad. Hope you quickly get it resolved.

 

[pkfj60]

No worries.

I went to a meet up with the Upstate Cruiser guys along with 828 overland. It seems it might be the damper for the tailgate, as mine is rather heavy. At $200+ I would like to know changing that part will fix the problem. I'll keep digging and try to figure this out.

 

[LBridges]

Since the tailgate damper is not electrical in nature I don't see how engine running or not would impact the ability to open the back.

 

[mike552]

My bet is that it’s the car’s anti-theft that is doing this. Have you tried cycling the key in the driver’s door cylinder lock (and any other cylinder locks that exist on the car) ?
This usually resets the anti-theft system and will “allow” access to any doors in question.

 

[outlaw4shrt]

My bet is that it’s the car’s anti-theft that is doing this. Have you tried cycling the key in the driver’s door cylinder lock (and any other cylinder locks that exist on the car) ?
This usually resets the anti-theft system and will “allow” access to any doors in question.

Hey thanks for sharing this. I had the same issue and tried cycling the key in the drivers door lock and it resolved the issue. Looks like someone tried to break into my car last week. Thanks again!

 

[GordJ]

ABSOLUTELY BRILLIANT! I have been agonizing over the keyless entry not working in the LC for weeks. Cleaning up connectors, checking fuses, cleaning up connectors, looking at wiring diagrams that are impossible for a “normal“ human to comprehend and cleaning—- you get the idea—- and when I saw this I thought about how the truck would know if someone was trying to break in. I figured that if someone tried to open the rear hatch without the key would be one way and the light came on! I ran (lumbered) out, cycled the mechanical key and the keyless entry worked! Hoo- fkn- rah.

 

[kevinfoutch]

Resurrecting this thread with hopes of a solution?

I have a 2011 LC and the rear hatch won’t open. As I recall, the left button under the hatch trim is larger, rectangular, and when pressed will both unlock the car and open the hatch. The second button is small, circular, about the diameter of a dime and will lock the car when hatch (and all other doors) are closed.

Now, however, the left button will neither unlock the car nor open the rear hatch. The right button, tho, will still lock the car.

We’ve had a wave of neighborhood crime activity, and my car with the ski box sits in the driveway unfortunately. It is possible someone may have attempted to break in, but i don’t see any other signs, scratches, or scuffs is the well coated dirt and grime from recent road-trips to the high country.

I tried to lock, unlock, repeatedly, with the physical key in driver’s door but did not have any luck. I haven’t disconnected the battery yet, but figured I’d try here in parallel and see if other suggestions came about?

Regardless, with ARB storage drawer (only passenger side) will I even be able to crawl into the back to disassemble anything with hopes of replacing any parts that might be broken? Locksmith going to have any luck? Hacksaw?

 

[tbisaacs]

Resurrecting this thread with hopes of a solution?

I have a 2011 LC and the rear hatch won’t open. As I recall, the left button under the hatch trim is larger, rectangular, and when pressed will both unlock the car and open the hatch. The second button is small, circular, about the diameter of a dime and will lock the car when hatch (and all other doors) are closed.

Now, however, the left button will neither unlock the car nor open the rear hatch. The right button, tho, will still lock the car.

We’ve had a wave of neighborhood crime activity, and my car with the ski box sits in the driveway unfortunately. It is possible someone may have attempted to break in, but i don’t see any other signs, scratches, or scuffs is the well coated dirt and grime from recent road-trips to the high country.

I tried to lock, unlock, repeatedly, with the physical key in driver’s door but did not have any luck. I haven’t disconnected the battery yet, but figured I’d try here in parallel and see if other suggestions came about?

Regardless, with ARB storage drawer (only passenger side) will I even be able to crawl into the back to disassemble anything with hopes of replacing any parts that might be broken? Locksmith going to have any luck? Hacksaw?

I would definitely try the battery to reinitialize the lock.

You can also manually open the hatch from the inside even with drawers. There is a small square cover on the hatch that pops off. Once off you can manually release the hatch.