2010 570 210k sudden death

[slowgreen]

Hello.

Yesterday the vehicle Revved up and immediately died. CEL and Battery light came on and there was no idle. Pressing ignition again the starter started cranking until I pressed ignition button again to stop it.

Looking around it seems like it could be the fuel pump ECU.

It's about $1000 for
89570-60150 Computer Assy, Fuel Pump Control, Toyota $235 @megazip (08-13 years only)
7702060342 TUBE ASSEMBLY, FUEL SUCTION WITH PUMP & GAGE $392 @NormReeves
77169-02050 Fuel Pump Assembly o-ring ~$7
77144-04010 Fuel Pump Retainer Ring ~$42
and $300 at my local shop

For some reason the 13+ fuel pump ECU is cheaper, more available and apparently doesn't fit the 08-13. I wonder what they changed.

I have half a tank of gas, the PCV valve is new, new starter and battery has plenty of juice to crank the starter.

I do not have techstream.

Should I just get these parts and hope for the best? Is this looking like a PM item for vehicles that didn't get a new pump in the recall?

Is now a good time to replace the rear suspension parts since the gas tank makes getting to the driver side 'shock' top bolt a PITA, and it would come out for the pump R&R?

What would you do?

Thanks

 

[tbisaacs]

Well I wouldn’t just throw parts at it unless you’ve ruled out all the other reasons for a crank but not start. Just me personally.

 

[TeCKis300]

Certainly could be the fuel pump or related ECU. It's probably worth some diagnosis before throwing parts at it.

Here's a cheap tester that could tell you if it's the fuel system

Amazon product ASIN B09H7VF2ZB
More diagnostics in this post/thread:

Got the fuel pressure tester (w/ 7.89mm/SAE 5/16 hair pin connector)

View attachment 3071023

And idle fuel pressure shows...

View attachment 3071026

~30PSI. That's well under the expected 41/42 psi per the repair manual. So now question is whether it's the fuel pump or fuel pressure controller? 80% sure it's the fuel pump.

View attachment 3071030

 

[CharlieS]

Well I wouldn’t just throw parts at it unless you’ve ruled out all the other reasons for a crank but not start. Just me personally.

100% this. Troubleshoot the problem.

 

[grinchy]

looks like the parts list has both the fuel ecu and the pump, you likely only need one of those.
Along with the other comments I’d verify spark before settling on fuel.

 

[slowgreen]

looks like the parts list has both the fuel ecu and the pump, you likely only need one of those.
Along with the other comments I’d verify spark before settling on fuel.

Thanks. The spark plugs could be original if that's even possible at 218k

 

[supercarrera]

@slowgreen was your truck subject to rainfall preceding the event?

 

[grinchy]

Things to check
Crank position sensor
MAF plug / maf clean
Spark at a plug

 

[slowgreen]

@slowgreen was your truck subject to rainfall preceding the event?

there was a little rain and snow for two days prior but pretty light.

 

[slowgreen]

Things to check
Crank position sensor
MAF plug / maf clean
Spark at a plug

Thanks I can see how a FSM would come in handy now.

I ordered some oem plugs just because. The MAF sensor looked clean and the top of the wire connector cracked when I grabbed it. Crank position sensor hmm. When I crank the tack sits at zero and doesn't move I know that much. Edit also when I try to give it gas while initially starting it up it makes no difference just seems to start and then tack drops to zero.

 

[supercarrera]

You say you have a CEL? You should read the codes. But

there was a little rain and snow for two days prior but pretty light.

You say you have a CEL? You should check what the codes are, if any, but it sounds like your symptoms are similar to the issue I had: Troubleshooting B2799 Immobilizer Problem

 

[slowgreen]

You say you have a CEL? You should read the codes. But

You say you have a CEL? You should check what the codes are, if any, but it sounds like your symptoms are similar to the issue I had: Troubleshooting B2799 Immobilizer Problem

I took a peek in the drivers A pillar and didn't see any moisture but I will keep that in mind and get the code(s) read. There's a good chance it's going to the shop, I'm already waiting on vacuum hoses/air cleaner/intake gaskets for one car and a starter I just ordered from cruiserteq for the other. This was supposed to be the vehicle that just worked lol. Last time all my rides were down I got frustrated and bought a used BMW but I won't be doing that again.

 

[slowgreen]

You say you have a CEL? You should read the codes. But

You say you have a CEL? You should check what the codes are, if any, but it sounds like your symptoms are similar to the issue I had: Troubleshooting B2799 Immobilizer Problem

Well the damn thing just started right up today. It's been in the high 40's the last couple days and dry. No CEL and idles just fine. I have an appointment booked for thursday at the shop, have spark plugs on order and now I don't know what to think.

I didn't want to think 2 days of light rain and 30 degrees F had anything to do with it, it's been fine all winter so far. Now I'm not even sure I want to take it to the carwash!

 

[supercarrera]

Well the damn thing just started right up today. It's been in the high 40's the last couple days and dry. No CEL and idles just fine. I have an appointment booked for thursday at the shop, have spark plugs on order and now I don't know what to think.

I didn't want to think 2 days of light rain and 30 degrees F had anything to do with it, it's been fine all winter so far. Now I'm not even sure I want to take it to the carwash!

There are a few other threads regarding water ingress into the wiring in the kick panels and behind the dash. For me, my sunroof drain was clogged. Now I periodically check the drain holes and haven't had any issues. Another potential entry point is the windshield seal near the cowling. If the windshield has been replaced, I would investigate that as well as the sunroof drain holes.

 

[slowgreen]

There are a few other threads regarding water ingress into the wiring in the kick panels and behind the dash. For me, my sunroof drain was clogged. Now I periodically check the drain holes and haven't had any issues. Another potential entry point is the windshield seal near the cowling. If the windshield has been replaced, I would investigate that as well as the sunroof drain holes.

Edit: The sunroof drains were unobstructed and the area had a little surface dirt but no build up and didn't look suspiciously clean either. I can look more into that.

Meanwhile the exhaust has a white color to it and smells when I lean down and sniff, but not like fuel. It is not billowing smoke or anything. The idle is smooth and stable at 500RPM. It revs smoothly but after 10min of running there is still white color exhaust not blue and a dinner size wet spot on the driveway under the pipe. This could be totally normal I have no idea, I don't have a habit of looking at the exhaust.

The radiator was replaced with an OEM a few months back but I also noticed the coolant is low, barely visible in the reservoir from the top and oddly there is some dried coolant on the new rad top cap. Maybe the shop just spilled some while filling it up.

It's still scheduled for the shop on Thursday.

 

[slowgreen]

Edit: The sunroof drains were unobstructed and the area had a little surface dirt but no build up and didn't look suspiciously clean either. I can look more into that.

Meanwhile the exhaust has a white color to it and smells when I lean down and sniff, but not like fuel. It is not billowing smoke or anything. The idle is smooth and stable at 500RPM. It revs smoothly but after 10min of running there is still white color exhaust not blue and a dinner size wet spot on the driveway under the pipe. This could be totally normal I have no idea, I don't have a habit of looking at the exhaust.

The radiator was replaced with an OEM a few months back but I also noticed the coolant is low, barely visible in the reservoir from the top and oddly there is some dried coolant on the new rad top cap. Maybe the shop just spilled some while filling it up.

It's still scheduled for the shop on Thursday.

Shop said they found a TSB for water intrusion and the passenger carpet is wet. And a fob to immobilizer communication code.

 

[bloc]

Shop said they found a TSB for water intrusion and the passenger carpet is wet. And a fob to immobilizer communication code.

PLEASE try to get a copy of that TSB and post it. Or at least the identifying number/code. Could be extremely valuable to others in the future.

 

[lx200inAR]

Shop said they found a TSB for water intrusion and the passenger carpet is wet. And a fob to immobilizer communication code.

A couple threads on that topic.

Water leak again, wet passenger floor and now electrical problems - Pictures

I'm dealing with this water leak issue with my fairly new to me 14 LX for the last 3 months, and it drives me crazy. We received 2 inches of rain for three days and I didn't drive my LX during that period. Yesterday, I found multiple spots of standing rain water on my passenger floor again (see...

forum.ih8mud.com

Leak

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[AnyMal]

I really need to clean out my drain lines soon. Just worried about poking them out with weed line. May i’ll try some diluted cleaner and air pops but i pray that water ingress day never comes.

And yeah that TSB would be interesting to see. Wonder if they fixed that gap intrusion area on my truck… I use tons of water in washing (pressurized) and love driving in the pouring rain. Knock on wood no issues yet with any of that.

 

[bloc]

I really need to clean out my drain lines soon. Just worried about poking them out with weed line. May i’ll try some diluted cleaner and air pops but i pray that water ingress day never comes.

And yeah that TSB would be interesting to see. Wonder if they fixed that gap intrusion area on my truck… I use tons of water in washing (pressurized) and love driving in the pouring rain. Knock on wood no issues yet with any of that.

Someone posted that they had the headliner out and disconnected the lines.. said it took a whole lot of force.

I still wouldn’t use compressed air, but the risk of popping the lines off seems pretty low.