Hey Eric, at 130k miles you should look for a radiator replacement and if they haven't, check to see if the top of the radiator has a small hairline crack around the stamp square area....it's prone to crack/leak. Also, I see you're in NC. Is the rig a southern rig? Check the KDSS valves and undercarriage rust. I would also see if the water pump has been replaced. Then, look for normal wear tear items like brake pads, fluid changes, etc. More info on the rig you're considering will help members of this forum give you informed advice.
It looks like the rig spent most of its time in the Midwest. At least in Kansas and Colorado. But yes, I was planning on bringing it back to the southeast region.
Thanks for the pointer on the radiator. I am guessing this engine has a timing chain so there are no worries on that end.
Suspension doesn't look very rusty, but is there a particular place to look?
Colorado doesn't really think of itself as the Midwest More importantly we have a lot less humidity (and also a lot less rust) than Kansas in general, so do consider that the climate between the two being significantly different can lead to different car condition outcomes.
It looks like the rig spent most of its time in the Midwest. At least in Kansas and Colorado. But yes, I was planning on bringing it back to the southeast region.
Thanks for the pointer on the radiator. I am guessing this engine has a timing chain so there are no worries on that end.
Suspension doesn't look very rusty, but is there a particular place to look?
Do give the cam tower concern a look; I haven't had any problems with mine, but others have. Plenty of info here abouts.
Give the knuckles a good looking over. Mine has been only in Memphis and Charlotte, and has virtually no rust on it. Some midwest (sorry CO) trucks have been known to lose their protective undercoating. It usually shows up at the grease fittings, AHS ports and brake fittings first. If you see any, buy a good supply of PB Blaster or make your own (50/50 kerosene and power steering fluid) and spray it down liberally. That'll cure the surface cancer. After that, you need to treat any areas you have seen rust on; any rust remover will deoxidize the metal and promote further oxidation if the surface is left bare. I use used engine oil and a paint brush; one of my 80s has a weeping rear main and the underside is as pretty as factory new can be.
By the way, (shameless plug) check out the local clubhouse if you haven't already.
More importantly we have a lot less humidity (and also a lot less rust) than Kansas in general, so do consider that the climate between the two being significantly different can lead to different car condition outcomes.
