2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement

[Munkfish]

I've got a radiator failure of a different sort. This is on my 2008 LX570 with 155K. This is on a newer radiator from this fall, I believe. It looks like the stub-out that connects to the overflow tank is broken and missing (there is no plastic piece remaining in the hose). I don't know how it was damaged. Is there any way to weld this or am I looking at a replacement?

 

[bloc]

I've got a radiator failure of a different sort. This is on my 2008 LX570 with 155K. This is on a newer radiator from this fall, I believe. It looks like the stub-out that connects to the overflow tank is broken and missing (there is no plastic piece remaining in the hose). I don't know how it was damaged. Is there any way to weld this or am I looking at a replacement?

View attachment 4136261

Whatever you do it would need to be able to handle the temperatures and vibrations of that environment while staying airtight. There might be ways to repair that with JBWeld and a copper tube or something, but personally I’d just replace it.

Side question: is that a Genuine Toyota radiator? If not I wouldn’t want it in there long term anyway.

 

[Munkfish]

Whatever you do it would need to be able to handle the temperatures and vibrations of that environment while staying airtight. There might be ways to repair that with JBWeld and a copper tube or something, but personally I’d just replace it.

Side question: is that a Genuine Toyota radiator? If not I wouldn’t want it in there long term anyway.

That's kinda what I figured. There's no marking on it whatsoever, so I'm pretty sure it is an aftermarket radiator.

 

[Sandroad]

This is an easy one. I’m in the replace with OEM camp.

 

[ekolpack]

Just gunna throw this out there....especially along with the JB Weld fiberglass patch method described previous. Promising....

 

[gaijin]

Just gunna throw this out there....especially along with the JB Weld fiberglass patch method described previous. Promising....

Or this one which looks like it has some good ideas that avoid overpenetration:

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[degmla]

New to me, 2013, 132k miles. Removed the decorative radiator top this weekend and….no surprise.

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SINCE NOT YET LEAKING, this is my < $15 attempt at “structural reinforcement”. Add a few shallow grooves near the crack edges (oriented with the low stress direction) to basically try and piss the crack off. Roughen up the surface with 180 grit paper (oriented with the high stress direction). Patch using JBWeld plastic. The red dash is the OEM radiator contour, whereas the blue dash is the contour I was going for.

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As has been pointed out, the crack-before-leak indicates these cracks are initiated on the outside. To reduce the propagating stress, my only hope is to have enough strength from the patch in the radiator’s depth (short direction), which is why I was trying to maximize the patch size in that direction.

Lexus radiators typically fail in the plastic/aluminum joints at 150k-ish (see my signature before you ask me how I know!). Hopefully this repair will enable that type of failure instead.

My final update on this repair. Alternator finally died at 178k. So I am replacing the repaired radiator with a new one. The repair still looked great. I'll try and snap a pic later this week.

 

[degmla]

Two pics. Summary: repair was at 132k at first notice of crack, radiator retired at 178k, but was in great shape. Had to remove due to alternator failure.

 

[Bunga]

Looks great !That was the straight JB with no fabric mesh?

 

[reddog90]

@BigHighBlue

 

[thefourthdoctor]

Here's another failure point on an aftermarket radiator. Truck has 205k, I bought it at 143k with this replacement radiator already installed. No idea when PO installed it. I just want to confirm some part numbers before I start purchasing. For a 2013 Land Cruiser. Also need to replace belt tensioner as it just started making an awful squealing sound. Anything else I should replace while I'm in there?

Radiator: 16400-50384
Hoses: 16572-38131 and 16571-38080
Belt tensioner: 16620-0S012
Idler pulley: 16603-38012
Serpentine belt: 90916-A2033

Thanks all!

 

[bloc]

Here's another failure point on an aftermarket radiator. Truck has 205k, I bought it at 143k with this replacement radiator already installed. No idea when PO installed it. I just want to confirm some part numbers before I start purchasing. For a 2013 Land Cruiser. Also need to replace belt tensioner as it just started making an awful squealing sound. Anything else I should replace while I'm in there?

Radiator: 16400-50384
Hoses: 16572-38131 and 16571-38080
Belt tensioner: 16620-0S012
Idler pulley: 16603-38012
Serpentine belt: 90916-A2033

Thanks all!

View attachment 4209002

At 205 I would strongly consider doing the fan bearing bracket. It will add some work to the job.. you have to slide the coolant pipes for the oil cooler over and some of those bolts are tough to get to.. but a fair number of us have had gritty or noisy bearings there by your mileage.

Also you might as well do the radiator hose clamps too. They are affordable and can get weak. Both ends of top hose and top end of bottom hose are the same, lower most clamp is larger.

Lastly I would consider doing your alternator brushes. More info here:

Thread 'Alternator brushes as PM'

Apr 29, 2024

Seems like there have been a rash of alternator replacements lately and as I approach and pass 200k I've had that on my mind. When I got my 80-series it had 270k on either the original or a Genuine Toyota alternator, and I noticed in the parts diagrams we can buy a brush kit for that unit. I ordered one, and on that platform it's quite easy to remove the alternator for a little upkeep. When I did this I noticed the bearings seemed perfect, and even the wear on the slip rings was minimal. I tossed that brush holder in with good results until I did the LS swap.

So this got me thinking...

• bloc
• Replies: 36
• Forum: 200-Series Cruisers

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