2008-2018 Radiator Failure and Public Service Announcement

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I am going to change my radiator and water pump very soon. Does anyone have the relevant FSM pages handy? And torque values for the water pump and other bolts that may need to be removed? And tricks to removing and re-torquing the fan bolts with the radiator and shroud in place?

I am sure it is in here somewhere, but it will take a long time to search through 103 pages. Feel free to tell me to search, just figured someone know exactly where it is or has a bookmark. Much appreciated!
 
I am going to change my radiator and water pump very soon. Does anyone have the relevant FSM pages handy? And torque values for the water pump and other bolts that may need to be removed? And tricks to removing and re-torquing the fan bolts with the radiator and shroud in place?

I am sure it is in here somewhere, but it will take a long time to search through 103 pages. Feel free to tell me to search, just figured someone know exactly where it is or has a bookmark. Much appreciated!
See below and attached.

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Attachments

Awesome thanks TJ!

Perhaps this can be added to the first post? Mods?
 
Holy $hit. Took mine into toyota just for kicks to estimate having them do the job. Radiator plus all the while you're in therr parts. They quoted 13 hours of labor for total of $2800. When I at first just asked for radiator he said $900 for like 3 hours. How thr hell does a a water pump, thermostat and some pulleys quadruple the labor?
 
Holy $hit. Took mine into toyota just for kicks to estimate having them do the job. Radiator plus all the while you're in therr parts. They quoted 13 hours of labor for total of $2800. When I at first just asked for radiator he said $900 for like 3 hours. How thr hell does a a water pump, thermostat and some pulleys quadruple the labor?
Did that include the fan bearing bracket? I do believe that is "officially" a very involved procedure..
 
Did that include the fan bearing bracket? I do believe that is "officially" a very involved procedure..
No i dont have the fan bearing bracket just the fan clutch. But I just called the much larger dealer across town and gave them the whole parts list explained the overlap and service advisor talked to his shop foreman and they said the book was 12 hours for all of it, with overlap 9 he said, but they would take it for 7.5 hours cost. The first dealer said 13 hours with the overlap. $1500 to not do that myself I cant pass on that. I've got more OT hours staring me in the face at work in the next few months than I know what to do with and sitting at a desk is much easier than laying under my truck. I really do like the sense of accomplishment of doing things myself but not for that price.
 
No i dont have the fan bearing bracket just the fan clutch. But I just called the much larger dealer across town and gave them the whole parts list explained the overlap and service advisor talked to his shop foreman and they said the book was 12 hours for all of it, with overlap 9 he said, but they would take it for 7.5 hours cost. The first dealer said 13 hours with the overlap. $1500 to not do that myself I cant pass on that. I've got more OT hours staring me in the face at work in the next few months than I know what to do with and sitting at a desk is much easier than laying under my truck. I really do like the sense of accomplishment of doing things myself but not for that price.
Well the dealer nightmare begins. Got a mile down thr highway and thankfully was watching coolant temp and it was rising. Pulled over in rush hour on the highway now. Look under and bottom radiator Hose is disconnected. Omg I knew I should have suffered through this myself. Waiting for tow truck now. Coolant temp got to like 230 before i shut it down. Hopefully motor not smoked.
 
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Well the dealer nightmare begins. Got a mile down thr highway and thankfully was watching coolant temp and it was rising. Pulled over in risg hour on the highway now. Look under and bottom radiator Hose is disconnected. Omg I knew I should have suffered through this myself. Waiting for tow truck now. Coolant temp got to like 230 before i shut it down. Hopefully motor not smoked.
Dealers kill more 200s than anything else. Good luck.
 
Dealers kill more 200s than anything else. Good luck.
The funny thing is I brought a gallon of coolant with me and told them it was in case they didnt bleed/burp it right and I needed to top it off on way home as its a 30 mile trip home. And well way worse than not burping it when refilling. FML
 
The funny thing is I brought a gallon of coolant with me and told them it was in case they didnt bleed/burp it right and I needed to top it off on way home as its a 30 mile trip home. And well way worse than not burping it when refilling. FML
What else do yall think I need to make them insoect/replace? Or do I force.them to give me a 75k warranty after they 'fix' it this time as insurance policy for unseen damage or life taken out of motor/ seals.
 
The funny thing is I brought a gallon of coolant with me and told them it was in case they didnt bleed/burp it right and I needed to top it off on way home as its a 30 mile trip home. And well way worse than not burping it when refilling. FML
You may be on top of this already but get pictures of the condition you found it in and insist on written records of them admitting the mistake.
 
Get the service director involved. Don’t let the service writer quietly sweep this under the radar (and take @bloc advice). An extended warranty for the whole vehicle would be at least some compensation for this mess.
 
You may be on top of this already but get pictures of the condition you found it in and insist on written records of them admitting the mistake.
Got pictures already sent that to them from the side of the road. They already admitted fault verbally not written so far.

No idea where the coolant temp sensor is at. The bottom hose is the outlet hose so if its off that means engine getting no coolant. If theres no coolant goong past the PID sensor displayed in my ODB reader screen then its just measuring air temp and no idea what's happening to the motor. The dash thermostat gage never red lined but was 3/4 to the top when I shut it down.
 
Get the service director involved. Don’t let the service writer quietly sweep this under the radar (and take @bloc advice). An extended warranty for the whole vehicle would be at least some compensation for this mess.
The service manager is who came to personally pick me up on the side of the highway and wait for the tow truck while they drove me to get a courtesy car. I was livid.
 
Any issue with using anti-seize on the water pump and thermostat housing bolts? How much would it change the torque values?

The old thermostat had an orange gasket, the new black. I need to take a closer look, do I need both? Post 34 of this thread (paragraph after #13c) seems to imply both.
 
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Then put the thermostat housing on with your new thermostat mounted (make sure your gaskets are in place! One black, one orange). Reinstall the water pump pulley with four 12mm bolts.

I think the two gaskets he is referring to are one for the thermostat to the housing (orange), and another for the housing to water pump/block (black). The gasket that came with my thermostat is black not orange like the original I pulled off.

Can someone confirm I only need one gasket between the thermostat and housing (the one that comes with the thermostat) and one gasket between the housing and water pump (the one that comes with the water pump)? I am pretty sure this is correct.
 
Can someone confirm I only need one gasket between the thermostat and housing (the one that comes with the thermostat) and one gasket between the housing and water pump (the one that comes with the water pump)? I am pretty sure this is correct.

This is correct.
 
Thank you! I have it all buttoned up and really didn't want to pull it off again.
 
The service manager is who came to personally pick me up on the side of the highway and wait for the tow truck while they drove me to get a courtesy car. I was livid.
They just called back and said the hose wasn't fitting and sealing as well as it should hinting it may be the hoses fault which i supplied. Service manager is still verbally admitting fault however. They are ordering a new hose then when they get it back together they are going to run coolant system pressure and leak tests. And do overheat diagnostics whatever all that may be.
 
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