jfz80
Cruisin’
Alex used George’s slider plans 15 years ago and still going well on the 80. Congrats. Now pics please! 
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2004 Tacoma DC LTD TRD Offroad (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter weejub
- Start date
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- #42
Got the new roof rack on this weekend. Will have Hi-Lift, shovel, recovery gear in a box, and spare tire on it.
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- #43
I have bought some sound deadening material and some deadening/insulation and some closed cell foam for the flat areas for spills and insulation.
If you know a lot about this I would like your thoughts, but here goes:
1. This Butyl stuff will go in the areas that are depressed for sound deadening. May try to put some on the ceiling, as well. Plan to cut strips that will fit in each area on all metal surfaces to include doors to help with the "ding" of sounds.
2. On vertical areas that don't have much risk of spills, etc, I will overlay this stuff:
3. I will then overlay this closed cell foam for insulation working from the middle of the floor out on all horizontal areas. Then lay the carpet back over the top.
Hoping to just use high quality duct tape to piece it all together.
Electrical:
I plan to run a 2 AWG power line under the truck to the bed of the truck for a 2nd battery, so don't have to worry about a BIG wire under the carpet, but . . .
I need to run maybe a 6-8 AWG to my arm rest and maybe another one to the front console from the rear wall of the cab.
Anything I need to worry about on the wiring? I was going to just put it inside a split loom.
Thanks!
If you know a lot about this I would like your thoughts, but here goes:
1. This Butyl stuff will go in the areas that are depressed for sound deadening. May try to put some on the ceiling, as well. Plan to cut strips that will fit in each area on all metal surfaces to include doors to help with the "ding" of sounds.
Amazon.com: Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening: Automotive
Buy Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening: Insulation & Noise Control - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
smile.amazon.com
2. On vertical areas that don't have much risk of spills, etc, I will overlay this stuff:
Amazon.com: Thermo-Tec 14620 60" X 36" Heat and Sound Suppressor: Automotive
Buy Thermo-Tec 14620 60" X 36" Heat and Sound Suppressor: Insulation - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
smile.amazon.com
3. I will then overlay this closed cell foam for insulation working from the middle of the floor out on all horizontal areas. Then lay the carpet back over the top.
Amazon.com: Noico Green 170 mil 36 sqft Сar Waterproof Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner, Self-Adhesive Closed Cell PE Foam Deadening Material (1/6'' Thick Sound Deadener): Electronics
Buy Noico Green 170 mil 36 sqft Сar Waterproof Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner, Self-Adhesive Closed Cell PE Foam Deadening Material (1/6'' Thick Sound Deadener): Insulation - Amazon.com ✓ FREE DELIVERY possible on eligible purchases
smile.amazon.com
Hoping to just use high quality duct tape to piece it all together.
Electrical:
I plan to run a 2 AWG power line under the truck to the bed of the truck for a 2nd battery, so don't have to worry about a BIG wire under the carpet, but . . .
I need to run maybe a 6-8 AWG to my arm rest and maybe another one to the front console from the rear wall of the cab.
Anything I need to worry about on the wiring? I was going to just put it inside a split loom.
Thanks!
- Thread starter
- #44
Updated my To-Do list on the first post.
Rear seats are out, ready to pull front and install sound deadening, wiring and prep for new rear seating update with some form of raised flat area for ARB and dog.
Rear seats are out, ready to pull front and install sound deadening, wiring and prep for new rear seating update with some form of raised flat area for ARB and dog.
6-8 ga to the armrest? You running some arm heaters or something in there? 8 AWG is rated to carry up to 30A 10' and 60A for 6AWG
- Thread starter
- #46
6-8 ga to the armrest? You running some arm heaters or something in there? 8 AWG is rated to carry up to 30A 10' and 60A for 6AWG
Yea - sorry - was drinkin a bit last night.
Thinking I "future proof" the line from the back to the front dash. So maybe 10-12 ga.
Realistically, I may only need 1 "hot" outlet at the front of the truck - maybe two. I have a ton of wire in the shed - need to use some of it up.
I think I have given up on the arm-rest.
- Thread starter
- #47
The 6-8 gauge goes to the rear wall board.
I am going to to try to cut up some plywood I bought for the Tundra make a platform base, and a back wallboard. The back wall will have stuff on it like these things:
from 2nd battery, into this:
www.bluesea.com
into this:
www.bluesea.com
Hoping to run the fridge and maybe have a perm place for this:
and maybe a boafeng battery charger
I am going to to try to cut up some plywood I bought for the Tundra make a platform base, and a back wallboard. The back wall will have stuff on it like these things:
from 2nd battery, into this:
ST Blade Compact Fuse Blocks - 4 Circuits - Blue Sea Systems
Compact ATO® / ATC® fuse block consolidates branch circuits and eliminates the tangle of in-line fuses for electronics and other appliances.
www.bluesea.com
into this:
Water-Resistant Accessory Panel - 12V Socket, 2x 2.1A Dual USB Chargers, Mini Voltmeter - Blue Sea Systems
Easy to Install Charging & Monitoring Panels
www.bluesea.com
Hoping to run the fridge and maybe have a perm place for this:
DEWALT 12V/20V MAX Car Battery Charger (DCB119) - Cordless Tool Battery Chargers - Amazon.com
DEWALT 12V/20V MAX Car Battery Charger (DCB119) - Cordless Tool Battery Chargers - Amazon.com
www.amazon.com
and maybe a boafeng battery charger
I have 6 ga THHN powering my 10hp phase converter, lol. That s*** is heavy.
- Thread starter
- #49
I ran through the Blue Sea circuit wizard (Circuit Wizard - Blue Sea Systems) and I think the below are the min gauges:
- Battery under hood to relay and switches: 125 amp MRBF fuse and 4 AWG wire
- From switches/relay under truck, along frame up to truck bed: 4 AWG
- From dual battery in truck bed, to the board on the back wall of rear seating area: 80 amp MBRF fuse and 10 AWG
- 80 amp circuit breaker -- 187-Series Circuit Breaker - Panel Mount 80A - Blue Sea Systems
- to a fuse block like above
- to the panel like notes above
- Thread starter
- #50
Got the interior out, cleaned it and power washed the interior carpet.
Next up is rear view camera set-up, mic fix on radio, sound deadening and insulation throughout.
Next up is rear view camera set-up, mic fix on radio, sound deadening and insulation throughout.
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- Thread starter
- #51
Got the sound deadening in this weekend and then most of the closed cell foam.
Sound deadening (Noico 80 Mil Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener):
Foam (Noico Green 170 Mil Сar Waterproof Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner, Self-Adhesive Closed Cell PE Foam Deadening Material):
Sound deadening (Noico 80 Mil Sound Deadening Mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener):
Foam (Noico Green 170 Mil Сar Waterproof Sound Insulation, Heat and Cool Liner, Self-Adhesive Closed Cell PE Foam Deadening Material):
- Thread starter
- #52
**Question: Thinking about using caulking in the gap between the back wall and the floor board. Not sure this is a great idea. I don't trust myself with low-volume spray foam . . .Answer: Its back together and the back wall and carpet put a TON of material in that location so no caulk was needed. **
Back wall is done. Need to use a heat gun and warm and roll a little harders.
Also need a little more tape for the floor and then the carpet goes back in.
I also have to install rivnuts for holding the back board that will replace the back of the seats. Would like to use existing holes in the trim, but need it to be structurally sound.
I will have a board on the floor and one on the back wall. The floor board will be held in place with the seat bolt mounts and wooden mounts with M10 bolts from the board down.
The back wall will be held by rivnuts and maybe something else . .not sure yet.
Back wall is done. Need to use a heat gun and warm and roll a little harders.
Also need a little more tape for the floor and then the carpet goes back in.
I also have to install rivnuts for holding the back board that will replace the back of the seats. Would like to use existing holes in the trim, but need it to be structurally sound.
I will have a board on the floor and one on the back wall. The floor board will be held in place with the seat bolt mounts and wooden mounts with M10 bolts from the board down.
The back wall will be held by rivnuts and maybe something else . .not sure yet.
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- Thread starter
- #53
Nice 1st Gen with lots of pics on the Go Fast Campers site:
- Thread starter
- #54
Updated pics.
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- Thread starter
- #55
Here are a few issues:
1. The topper struts are a little old. They have to be pushed up a bit.
2. I can't seem to get the back up camera to work.
3. There is a bump below the left tail light (pic below).
1. The topper struts are a little old. They have to be pushed up a bit.
2. I can't seem to get the back up camera to work.
3. There is a bump below the left tail light (pic below).
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You should put the battery in the engine bay. I’m on your heels with the sound deadening And the rear seat delete.
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- #59
lumbee1
Native American
Yes they do
