2001 LX 470 ABS replacement? (2 Viewers)

[bikefast1]

New to this so... I have a 2001 LX and I have an ABS failure, no brakes. I am on a small island in the PNW with the only way off being a car ferry. Local mechanics will not work on complex issues. I had the fault indicator read and it came up with 9 different fault codes all involving the ABS system. All of the indicators, Brake, VCS, ABS lights are on, warning buzzer, 05% braking power, etc. are there. I have two questions;
1. Do I replace just the motor or the whole assembly (you have to remove it to get to the ABS motor anyway) or do I just replace the ABS motor? The condition of the assembly is excellent for a 220K vehicle.
2. Is removing and reinstalling the ABS assembly something someone can do with good basic skills and patience in their driveway. Watched plenty of YouTube videos and read this forum and it seems straight forward. I want to make sure I'm not missing something.
Any help would be much appreciated. I love this truck!

 

[JunkCrzr89]

You have a few options:
1) Diagnose the problem yourself to determine the root cause of the failure, which may or may not be repairable.
2) If you find that the cause is something repairable, like the pump motor or accumulator, then you can have your pump motor rebuilt for $300 or so and replace the accumulator with new for about $350.
3) If you find that the cause of the issue is not repairable, then you'll need to buy a new assembly for about $2500.
4) If you'd rather just skip the diagnoses and lengthy repairs altogether, then just buy a new assembly and never worry about it for another 20 years.

 

[mystican]

how many miles? If you plan on keeping it, then replace the whole assembly and be happy for 20 years (said on number 4 above post)

 

[JunkCrzr89]

how many miles?

The condition of the assembly is excellent for a 220K vehicle.

 

[zhloea]

New to this so... I have a 2001 LX and I have an ABS failure, no brakes. I am on a small island in the PNW with the only way off being a car ferry. Local mechanics will not work on complex issues. I had the fault indicator read and it came up with 9 different fault codes all involving the ABS system. All of the indicators, Brake, VCS, ABS lights are on, warning buzzer, 05% braking power, etc. are there. I have two questions;
1. Do I replace just the motor or the whole assembly (you have to remove it to get to the ABS motor anyway) or do I just replace the ABS motor? The condition of the assembly is excellent for a 220K vehicle.
2. Is removing and reinstalling the ABS assembly something someone can do with good basic skills and patience in their driveway. Watched plenty of YouTube videos and read this forum and it seems straight forward. I want to make sure I'm not missing something.
Any help would be much appreciated. I love this truck!

Firstly, repeat Paul's (@2001LC ) warning:
"Brake failure is very dangerous, obviously. Keep in mind working on your own brakes is at your own risk. Any advise or help I offer is your sole responsibility to evaluate risk. Most any INDY shop or Dealership, will only do one thing with any brake master issue. They just replace the whole unit, and for good reasons."

Based on this waring I can answer the second question . Sure you can do it, as a people with a basic skill and some proper tools I did this one month ago. Replace the assembly is not hard, the part a little complex is properly bleed the new assembly and brakes, you will need taking care "abs bleed" and you need some scan tool like "Techstream" or some particular method to trigger/open the ABS when you do this. Here is my writeup about this replacement :
Master Cylinder Rebuild - DIY - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/master-cylinder-rebuild-diy.406533/post-13920472

By the way, to me, I think only replace one part of the whole assembly has some drawback.
1. you possibly end up costing more money, if you found it did not work after this partial replacement. you can compare "all the parts you should buy to make an assembly" and "the price of the whole assembly", there is a big difference.
2. partial replacement requires more work, you need to disassemble more stuff and making sure it really works when put together, let's say it possibly needs more knowledge or skill, more time, and more risk.
Again this is just to me, my own opinion, so when I decide to repair this guy, after a lot of research and I said to myself "what the hell...I chose to replace the whole thing..."

 

[bikefast1]

Thanks to everyone for weighing in. I decided to replace the entire unit with a rebuilt assembly. Like one other, I reached out to Andy Le on ebay. He was really helpful, got his rebuilt to me pronto and promptly sent my $200 core charge back. Total cost was $650 + shipping. I can't recommend him enough. His seller ID on ebay is I-14248. Again, good guy and the remanufactured unit is working perfectly.

 

[grundsethp]

Its a time vs $$$ calculation. I did the pump replacement and my issue remained. Then did the master replacement… did not fix the issue. I bit the bullet and bought the part from toyota. No rebuild for me.

There are three failures that I have seen on these units based on the posts I read:
1) failure of the pump due to either two failures. This is usually diagnosed by loss of brake pressure. The pump turns on when the pressure is low via pressure switch. At key on (enogne not running) you can hear it. If you cannot, pump the brakes to drop the pressure. If you do not hear or see the pump wiggling, the pump has failed in these two ways: 1)The pump stator/brushes are worn and needs rebuild. A good electical motor rebuild shop can refurbish as good as new or buy the whole pump/motor unit.2) the electrical wires from the pump to the main unit is corroded at the connection. Remove the rubber boot and inspect.

2) brake master cylinder failure. Presssing on the brake pedal is not firm and will go to the floor. This is usually due to the seals in the main bore are worn and brake fluid is leaking that does not allow brake pressure to build.

3) high or low pressure pump switch failure. This was my failure. The pump runs continuously and does not stop as the high pressure off switch does not stop the pump. You may hear a screech or pulsating screech. The pressure starts failing at low temperatures (30F-40F) you will hear it during the winter at startup but will go away after the car warms up or its summer time. The alarms on the dash turn on and the buzzer screams when the pump runs for longer than 5 minutes. This failure requires the master cylinder assembly to change. I am not sure the rebuilders changes this sensor so even a rebuilt unit could have old pressure sensor.

I did all three repairs in that order. I would recommend changing the whole thing out if you are not inclined to diagnose this failure and determine which one you have. If not, you may still have the issue even why replacing a bunch of parts

 

[JSCruiser67]

I had a similar issue with my 2001 100 Series LC. I initially purchased and installed a complete replacement pump/actuator assembly and that didn't fix the issues I was having. I then purchased and installed a replacement abs/vsc module and put my original pump assembly back in and my brakes have been functioning correctly ever since. No more ABS, VSC TRAC, VSC OFF, E Brake lights and no more alarm going off.