2000 LC Speaker / Aftermarket Head Unit (1 Viewer)

[divinealpine]

Hi guys!

I just purchased a LC this week (my first one!) and immediately replaced the radio. It already had a regular Pioneer aftermarket but I swapped it with a CarPlay enabled Pioneer AVH NEX 4000.

It already had this wiring harness here:

Metra Stereo Wiring Harness 70-8112

Shop for Metra Stereo Wiring Harness 70-8112 with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.

www.autozone.com

When I plugged in the Subwoofer (purple, green) to the Subwoofer slots in the back and then the speaker (grey, white) to the Front Output RCA from the head unit I had no sound. So I did some research and found some diagrams. I found where the Amp + (brown/red) pin was and the Acc + (gray) pin were on the aftermarket wiring harness. I combined these two with the ignition (red) and plugged it all back in and I now have sound.

Pin diagram for my model:

However, the unit does not turn off when the key is out. I can remove the head unit's face which will turn it off but it's a bit of a pain to have to do every time. Does anyone know how I can fix it so when I remove the key, the unit will turn too? I'm thinking maybe... I should just remove the ignition and only have Acc + Amp power?

Thanks!

 

[Bigfish100]

The amp power wire should go to your blue antenna wire from head unit. That’s how I wired the same unit. Combine the power antenna and amp.

 

[divinealpine]

The amp power wire should go to your blue antenna wire from head unit. That’s how I wired the same unit. Combine the power antenna and amp.

Thank you! I'll give this a shot tomorrow.

Also, did you get your rear speakers to work ?

 

[Cleric Duran]

Hi guys!

I just purchased a LC this week (my first one!) and immediately replaced the radio. It already had a regular Pioneer aftermarket but I swapped it with a CarPlay enabled Pioneer AVH NEX 4000.

It already had this wiring harness here:

Metra Stereo Wiring Harness 70-8112

Shop for Metra Stereo Wiring Harness 70-8112 with confidence at AutoZone.com. Parts are just part of what we do. Get yours online today and pick up in store.

www.autozone.com

When I plugged in the Subwoofer (purple, green) to the Subwoofer slots in the back and then the speaker (grey, white) to the Front Output RCA from the head unit I had no sound. So I did some research and found some diagrams. I found where the Amp + (brown/red) pin was and the Acc + (gray) pin were on the aftermarket wiring harness. I combined these two with the ignition (red) and plugged it all back in and I now have sound.

Pin diagram for my model:
View attachment 2145129


However, the unit does not turn off when the key is out. I can remove the head unit's face which will turn it off but it's a bit of a pain to have to do every time. Does anyone know how I can fix it so when I remove the key, the unit will turn too? I'm thinking maybe... I should just remove the ignition and only have Acc + Amp power?

Thanks!

I have had this issue on a recent install in Subaru Baja. For some reason I combined the battery and red power button on harness and radio side. This caused the radio to remain on. I rewired the battery and red power separately and I no longer had the issue. Hope this helps

 

[divinealpine]

I tried what Bigfish100 suggested but had no audio. So I put the red power back with the red from the HU (labeled ignition) and the amp power (gray) too. So now those three are combined, it seems to be the only way I can get sound to come through.

My battery from the HU is yellow, and it's connected to the yellow from the wiring harness which I believe is correct..

So I guess I'll just have to keep removing the faceplate to turn off the unit when the key isn't in

 

[Cleric Duran]

Pulled my stereo out. On the harness side I have the blue and blue/white to radio side blue wire. Harness side black and black/white to radio side black. Everything else matches color for color

Here is the combo for the plugs

On the harness side grey and white are the fronts and green and purple are the rear. Hope this helps

 

[divinealpine]

Dang. I don’t understand, I just tried what you described above. Exhibiting power on while key not in ignition and no sound regardless of key position

 

[divinealpine]

with this same combination. The original pioneer head unit works w sound. But has a weird buzzing sound and also is on with no key.

not sure how I achieved that...

 

[divinealpine]

ok... so I think for some reason the red wire from the wiring harness (labeled Ignition) is always on. I haven't cut any wires on the vehicle itself and I am for sure the original Pioneer head unit would turn off when the keys were out too.

Not sure how to proceed now..

 

[Cleric Duran]

Your header says your Land cruiser is a 2000. It looks like you may have the wrong harness which is for a 92-99.


This is the one I used for my 2000 LC

Metra 70-8113 Amplifier Integration Harness for Select 2000-2004 Toyota Vehicles Amazon product ASIN B0007WRQQ2

 

[Bigfish100]

your blue/ yellow wire from the truck is the battery wire. that goes to your yellow wire on head unit. Bron/ red wire goes to blue wire on head unit and Grey wire goes to red on HU.

 

[Bigfish100]

After reading your post with the after market harness, I may be steering you wrong here. I cut out the wires i needed for my install from the factory plug as I was using the factory amp. No known adaptor for my set up. Although the blue/yellow is your battery. that should feed the yellow wire on most HU. Thats what keeps you clock and settings programmed when truck is off.

 

[divinealpine]

Your header says your Land cruiser is a 2000. It looks like you may have the wrong harness which is for a 92-99.


This is the one I used for my 2000 LC

Metra 70-8113 Amplifier Integration Harness for Select 2000-2004 Toyota Vehicles Amazon product ASIN B0007WRQQ2

Yea, 2000 LC. I just ordered one! What makes you think I have the wrong harness, the HU always being on or just the behavior in general?

After reading your post with the after market harness, I may be steering you wrong here. I cut out the wires i needed for my install from the factory plug as I was using the factory amp. No known adaptor for my set up. Although the blue/yellow is your battery. that should feed the yellow wire on most HU. Thats what keeps you clock and settings programmed when truck is off.

Yea, I saw your video and originally tried your method but realized you had a few extra steps. I appreciate the help guys, thank you! Hopefully the new harness I ordered will work, otherwise , I'll just have to try a different approach.

 

[Cleric Duran]

Yea, 2000 LC. I just ordered one! What makes you think I have the wrong harness, the HU always being on or just the behavior in general?




Yea, I saw your video and originally tried your method but realized you had a few extra steps. I appreciate the help guys, thank you! Hopefully the new harness I ordered will work, otherwise , I'll just have to try a different approach.

Your post had a link to the harness I assume you bought 70-8112 and the correct 2000 is 70-8113. IDK maybe the pins are in a different order for the 92-99. The right 2000 harness is cheap and worth a try since it's the one I'm using and have had no issues.

Let us know how it goes

 

[divinealpine]

You're right. I linked the wrong harness. I just received my 70-8113 harness in the mail and compared to the one I am using, they're exactly the same.

I appreciate the help guys! But unfortunately, I think I've hit a dead end

 

[ZetheGSD]

Good luck to you on getting your radio addressed! My 200 LC just got a nice double din Kenwood excelon unit and I said screw wiring with adapters and trying to get the factory amp to work, so I ran RCA's straight to a nice JL HD900/5 under the passenger seat where the old amp was and used the amp harness to run from my JL amp through the factory wiring to all the door speakers. It was super easy and my cruiser has sound that surpasses anything on the road today. My components sound incredible and my dual sealed 12" box in the back has plenty enough grunt to rattle my head when asked to.

 

[divinealpine]

Good luck to you on getting your radio addressed! My 200 LC just got a nice double din Kenwood excelon unit and I said screw wiring with adapters and trying to get the factory amp to work, so I ran RCA's straight to a nice JL HD900/5 under the passenger seat where the old amp was and used the amp harness to run from my JL amp through the factory wiring to all the door speakers. It was super easy and my cruiser has sound that surpasses anything on the road today. My components sound incredible and my dual sealed 12" box in the back has plenty enough grunt to rattle my head when asked to.

I eventually want to do this too, it sounds pretty straight forward. However, having just purchased the LC, I'm thinking it might be best (for me) to enjoy it stock before I end up throwing more money into it... unless I can do it for a relatively cheap amount .

I just looked up the JL HD900/5, that is one expensive amp. Do you have any suggestions for something that is decently priced and still built with quality?

 

[87warrior]

Since you plan to upgrade in the future, I'd suggest bypassing the factory amp and power the 4 door speakers from the radios internal amp. You will not miss the factory 'sub'. You essentially run new wire from the head units speaker outputs to the plug under the passenger seat that feeds the factory speakers.

Metra Part # 70-8116 can be used on a 2000+ to assist the bypass.

Stereo Wiring: Land Cruiser / LX 470 (1998-02)

Article by: RobRed Applicable Models: 1998 - 2002 / 100 Series Land Cruiser or Lx 470 Changing your head unit to an aftermarket unit is pretty stra

tlcfaq.com

 

[NabisOne]

Yes, this is what I did recently. The Metra 8113 worked great for me. Someone may have done something in there in the past though that has messed with the color scheme of your power wiring. If you have a meter or test light you can easily find the switched power wire and get it wired so it turns on and off with the ignition. If you pull out your ashtray it gives you a little access to get to the space behind where the HVAC controls are so you can run four new speaker wires down along the passenger side console and hide them behind the console plastic to your amp area under the passenger seat. Pull the passenger seat, you will be able to easily splice in your new wires to the existing wires going to the four doors. The whole thing took me about an hour to do. I left my factory amp in and use the sub outputs still to power a dual voice coil sub I added in the back. The stock subs in the 2000 are two tiny 4" drivers that I honestly couldn't hear over the sound of the truck/road noise. I can take a pic of my wiring later today and post it for you.

 

[divinealpine]

Yes, this is what I did recently. The Metra 8113 worked great for me. Someone may have done something in there in the past though that has messed with the color scheme of your power wiring. If you have a meter or test light you can easily find the switched power wire and get it wired so it turns on and off with the ignition. If you pull out your ashtray it gives you a little access to get to the space behind where the HVAC controls are so you can run four new speaker wires down along the passenger side console and hide them behind the console plastic to your amp area under the passenger seat. Pull the passenger seat, you will be able to easily splice in your new wires to the existing wires going to the four doors. The whole thing took me about an hour to do. I left my factory amp in and use the sub outputs still to power a dual voice coil sub I added in the back. The stock subs in the 2000 are two tiny 4" drivers that I honestly couldn't hear over the sound of the truck/road noise. I can take a pic of my wiring later today and post it for you.

I would appreciate it! I'm trying to visually understand your approach but it sounds like you just wired from the head unit to your stock amp and from the stock amp to the 4 speakers and a new sub in the back?

I wonder If I do get an aftermarket amp that it would fix my issues with the head unit being always on when the key is in...

Sorry guys, I don't mean to keep ranting about the always on unit. I think it's a separate issue the previous owner(s) introduced, but it would be nice that when I bypass the amp and/or adding a new sub will fix it (probably not).