2000 LC Rear Brake Pad Clips...What's the problem?

[TheRhino]

I am replacing my rear rotors, calipers and brake pads for the first time myself.
The clips that hold the pads in are giving me a fit.
Thanks in advance.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Clips on the rear? There are two 14mm that hold the part of the caliper on that holds the pads in and then two 17mm that hold the whole caliper on. Going from memory on the bolt sizes.

 

[wareagle]

Are you referring to the shims and wear indicators? I hads to toss the wear indicators when I changed my pads.

 

[TheRhino]

Yes I am referring to the wear indicators and clips. I can't seem to get the pad ("ears on each end") to seat properly in the caliper. It has been a pain in the "you know what". I thought this would be an easy project, but has turned out to be extremely frustrating.

 

[100 TD]

Do you have a FSM....PM sent

 

[wareagle]

Yes I am referring to the wear indicators and clips. I can't seem to get the pad ("ears on each end") to seat properly in the caliper. It has been a pain in the "you know what". I thought this would be an easy project, but has turned out to be extremely frustrating.

Would it be possible to post a pic? I used the old shims (larger plates that attach to back of the pads). I could not get the wear indicators (small clips that attach to edge of pad) to work properly, so I left them off.

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Have you pushed the pistons back in to give you room?

 

[EdsCruisin]

The FSM is no help. Of the 8 clips, there are two styles in two orientations each (reversed) and the pictures don't tell you which ones go where. It is a kind of mental math project, but try to arrange them all in reversed pairs and then figure the pattern that seems to work, relative to the typical rotation of the tires. In other words, the same style ones go to the front of the caliper (in board and out board) and the others go to the rear. A little trial and error, but they really don't fit well in any other configuration.

I would not go without the clips, or you may get rattling brake pads and pre-mature wear.

 

[TheRhino]

Thanks to everyone for the advice. I finally got everything back together and did a short test drive. Got back home and noticed I had a leak at the brake line bolt to caliper connection. Went to Toyota today and the drawing shows 2 metal washers required on the bolt. Unfortunately, they were not installed when I started the project. They had to order them, and will be in tomorrow. Hope this will eliminate the leak. My learning cure is "straight up" since I'm just starting out as a "Do-It-Yourselfer".
Next on my list is the front brakes

 

[Trunk Monkey]

Yep, those are copper washers. utahfj62 needs to post up his recent experience about the banjo bolt and those washers.

 

[wareagle]

Copper washers are never in stock. I now keep a sheet of copper to make my own. Between the TLC, trooper & miata, I've sealed all kinds of leaks (clutch, brakes, axle tubes, etc) with the copper sheet.

 

[100 TD]

........... I'm just starting out as a "Do-It-Yourselfer".
Next on my list is the front brakes

You'll love the fronts, pad change in a few minutes, no bolts to remove, remove spring clips & pins, push back pistons replace shoes.

 

[EdsCruisin]

You'll love the fronts, pad change in a few minutes, no bolts to remove, remove spring clips & pins, push back pistons replace shoes.

If the spring clips aren't rusted and break off. They sell a kit of new clips and pins at some auto parts stores for about $15. Or, if the pins are still ok, some mechanics like to use small cotter pins instead of the long spring clip. About the guage of a big paper clip.

 

[uHu]

Copper washers, if they are undamaged, can be heated up on a blow-torch (or big lighter) until glowing. Then they become soft and good as new.