2000 LC, Keep or Not?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 27, 2008
Threads
11
Messages
45
I need some rational input. Have a 2000 LC, 205K miles, owned since new. New England vehicle. Has been a tremendous truck, and has a lot of sentimental history. Current condition: Mechanically very sound. In last 8K miles, TB and full 90K service, new rotors, two new calipers, new pads. New Bilsteins, new bushings. Five new tires. It's in good shape.

Here are the issues: Rust. The rear hatch needs to be replaced. The "standard" problem. Not going to screw around with a patch fix. The windshield is a case study in a poor installation gone bad. Needs replacing, and needs a lot of rust repair work under the moulding on the top of the windshield. It's significant. The interior is is great shape other than the fact that one of our dogs has taken nice chunks out of both of the front door panels. They should be replaced. The radio is shot, and should be replaced. The fake wood trim on the console looks awful. Have a couple of interior lights that are out....doesn't bother me {the D light, seat heater light, etc}. Carpet, leather, headliner all perfect. If I keep it, I should probably source some exhaust manifolds, too. Transmission was replaced under extended warranty at 98K miles, along with the starter. At $750, back then, the warranty was a pretty good investment!

So here's the question. I know every inch of this truck mechanically. I can get a rust free hatch, and two perfect interior panels for $1200 or so. I'm guessing to do the rust work near the windshield, the right way, will be $2000, maybe even $3000.
So, to make it look right, I am guessing that I'll spend around $4000. I will also do what I can to be preventive in terms of the rust. it is what it is. If you were in my shoes, would you be thinking about doing this, or selling it, and looking for the best rust free example of a 2003, or 2004, with maybe 100K miles that you could find?

When I get done with transportation, sales tax in my state {6.25%}, and realistic pricing, my guess is that I'm looking at at least $15K, and maybe $20K for a newer one versus $4K {or more} to fix. Then again, I'll have a LC with no rust, and a lot more life. Where I get hung up is that I know this one, and I have the most detailed service records that you'll ever see. If I didn't live 150 yards from the ocean, we would not have the issue! I've been going back and forth in my head on this for quite a while.

I know the general consensus on "rust belt" vehicles. This one is solid as rock other than in those two areas......and of course it"s one can of PB Blaster for each nut to loosen underneath.

LC will be a third vehicle for the most part, and used for some longer, most often winter road trips. Whether I keep mine, or replace, I plan on owning one for at least another 25 years. We're talking a 5K miles per year vehicle within couple of years. Just can't imagine NOT owning one.

Appreciate any thoughts. Thanks.
 
An 03/04 with 100k miles is probably going to run you closer to 20k.

Sounds like you'd have a hard time getting much money if you tried to sell it with the rust in it's current condition. Plus with all the little things wrong with the truck inside a prospective buyer will think the vehicle has been neglected.

Seems like it has plenty of life left in it. I'd probably keep it and sink 4k into her. Actually I'd probably sink a little more and give it a day of beauty on the inside as well(radio, trim, door panels). Nothing like a clean rig inside and out to boost your pride of ownership.
 
it is what it is.

Save your money and just drive it.

Let it rust. Let the dogs chew on it. Drive it on the beach. Take it fishing. Use it to pull things out of the ocean... why would it be worth $4k to fix the rust at this stage?

Just spend $200 on a new stereo and a couple cans of primer.

If you live at the beach, anything you get is going to rust, so don't worry about it.

Spray some primer on it and keep going.

If you need to have a car that looks pretty, then buy a Lexus sedan and keep it in the garage.
 
Last edited:
Another vote for keeping it. I've had the same thoughts as you're having and they never really go away, unless you move elsewhere or get rid of the truck. In most cases, our Cruisers will outlive us.
 
Ok - I gotta say it.

Sell it!

Put it up for sale on Mud, give the new buyer all the service records, and wish it bon voyage.

Somebody's going to pick it up, put the money in it and be happy they purchased a great vehicle (sans rust and interior).
 
Thanks for the suggestions. Very much appreciated. Just to clarify, the interior of the truck can be made pretty close to mint with a stereo, two door panels, and some work with the cheesy fake wood on the lower part of the console. The carpet is perfect, as is the leather, the dash, wheel, headliner, etc. Carpet and rubber floor mats look new. Cargo area is pristine. Everything but the 'D" light and the one seat heater light works perfectly. The truck has had the best of mechanical care. Extensive records since day one. Pretty nutty about proactive maintenance. The body is in very, very good shape, other than the two rust areas. Paint is original. no accidents, no reprays, other than both of the bumper covers having being redone.

Mechanically, it's had cracked exhaust manifolds for 100K miles, and I guess I should/could replace those. Not sure if a fix to the exiting manifolds makes sense at this point. The exhaust is still solid. Everything else has been renewed or maintained as it should be.

I'm thinking $15k to $20K PLUS whatever I sell this one for, for the type of 2003-4 that I'd search for. No rush, as we have other vehicles. It's far too nice to trash and turn into a beach wagon. Besides, we have a rusty Grand Cherokee for that purpose. It's either fix it the right way, or let somebody else take on the project. If I had some confidence that I could find a 2003-4 in a color we'd like, with the same type of documented maintenace records, I might lean that way. Like I said, I pretty much know this one inside and out. I'm still sitting on the fence, but feel the lean towards keeping it.

Thanks, again.
 
Sell it on craigslist to a local who understands rust. Sleep well at night. Put the proceeds plus the 4K you were gonna dump into it, and you're well over halfway to a nicer, newer truck. Come to AZ and buy a rust free truck. IH8RUST. Especially as trucks get older, need more maintenance, and need more items replaced. The simplest jobs turn into nightmares. Been there, won't do it again. Ever.

Typos sent from my HTC EVO using the IH8MUD app...
 
See it for what it is:

you will not get much for a rusty 12-year-old truck with 200k miles on it.
Nor will you make it "pretty close to mint."

The truck is worth more to you because you know it's history (and you like the truck).

Sell the Grand Cherokee; keep the Landcruiser.

If you want a rust-free cruiser, buy another one.
you would then have two Landcruisers.
 
Last edited:
...it's had cracked exhaust manifolds for 100K miles, and I guess I should/could replace those. Not sure if a fix to the exiting manifolds makes sense at this point. The exhaust is still solid. Everything else has been renewed or maintained as it should be

... It's far too nice...

i will send you my OEM manifolds (150k miles, no ticks) for the cost of shipping and a case of beer. PM me.

"its far too nice"... i say why loose several thousand dollars on an unnecessary vehicle transaction when you have a great 100% mechanical/90% structural LC that you dont have to care too much about? especially if you have several other vehicles...

down the road if repairs get to be a PITA due to rust, then thats another question.
:cheers:
 
You mentioned it will be a 5k/yr vehicle and weapon of choice for long trips? I'd keep it. Keeps the cost of ownership low for a 5k/yr vehicle. Also the taxes on it will be next to nothing compared to the newer models.
 
OK, this was exactly what I needed. I'm keeping it. No questions. The project begins this weekend. BKgee, thanks for the manifold offer. Sent you a PM. I'm taking you up on it. I just know too much about this truck, and I can get it back to the kind of shape that will perfect sense for our use, for $5K. At least for the next few years, that works. Not ready to give up on this one, yet, and willing to sink some $$$ into it. Thanks, again, for all of the suggestions and ideas. Much appreciated. MS
 
Plus figure your 5k investment will make it easier to sell if you do decide to part with it down the road.
 
i bought my 03 over a year ago with 75K on it for $23K. you can find decent deals here in the NE for sure. I don't think mine was a sweetass deal, but it was definitely nice getting into a newer LC
 
you also have to keep in mind people that know land cruisers steer away from the year 2000 due to transmission issues, although, yours having over 200K i am guessing youre in the clear.
 
goatbeaver said:
you also have to keep in mind people that know land cruisers steer away from the year 2000 due to transmission issues, although, yours having over 200K i am guessing youre in the clear.
Mwuhahaha

Typos sent from my HTC EVO using the IH8MUD app...
 
I was talking to a buddy of mine who owns a glass installation place because we are getting some rust around the windshield from a lousy install (wasn't him). He said legally, the last installer is liable for repair and they carry insurance for it.. I haven't checked into to it yet. So, thanks for reminding me!!!
 
Thanks, again. I had the transmission replaced with a new unit when the truck had 98K miles on it, under a Toyota extended warranty. No issues since. Had the starter replaced at the same time.

I am firmly of the opinion that the rust around the windshield frame is a direct result of a faulty windshield replacement, but it was done 7 years ago, and I'm quite sure that I have no practical recourse there. Once again, I'd stress to anybody how important it is to get an installation done the right way. The rust under the moulding and along the bottom of the rear hatch appeared about a year ago, and just exploded since then. So it was percolating under the moulding for 6 years; the rear hatch is another thing. If I turned back the clock, I'd spend the money to have a good glass guy look at the windshield, reseal, new moulding, etc. Live and learn. Better to be proactive.
If we were to go for a newer truck, I'm pretty sure t
hat I could find a good one for $25K, or so. I would buy the very best example that I can find in the country, and get it on a rust prevention treatment here in N.E. right away. I've had great results with Corrosion Free on a couple of other cars. One's a 1995. Been in N.E. for six years, and it's in tremendous shape.

We're going to have the rust looked at by a few shops, pull the headliner, and determine what we have. I think we have enough to work with, and we'll get on it.

Thanks again. The comments and posts have really helped me get my head around this.
 
Keep that baby! I would drive that thing until the whole thing rusts apart. Every year trucks get more dumbed down for Americans and become less "truck like" and more "mall cruiserish."

Someday you'd look back and kick yourself. I'm sure you can that rust fixed. By the time you pay off your next landcruiser it's going to be rusting somewhere also I gurantee it.

If you were going to jump up to a 200 series I could see that but I wouldn't stay with the same platform if you've got a truck you know that has been good to you.
Plus you don't have any car payments and can afford to fix it the right way.

My 2 cents.
 
Back
Top Bottom