2000 AC issue big $

[gjh]

My AC has a leak in the high pressure hose to the rear AC unit. $1200 to fix at toyo, plus 3-$400 more if condensor is corroded through.

I don't need the rear AC & it was an option. Has anyone tapped off the rear unit? I would think I could just get a return line to by pass the rear unit.

Thanks

 

[campoj2]

I just had a $1900 quote from the Stealership to replace my A/C compressor. I did some shopping and found a Nippodenso compressor for $360 - delivered next day air and it was about 4 hours of paid labor. In the end I saved $1200 by not going to Toyota. A/C repairs can be expe$ive.

If it's just the line, can't you just replace it and recharge the system? I would also look into a local A/C repair shop and see what they can do for you.

If you are north of Boston, I think summer is almost over anyway!

 

[NMuzj100]

Sounds unreasonable for a hose leak.

 

[Kigiin]

I had the same problem years ago. As I recall the aluminum? lines needed to be replaced - dealer wanted close to $2k. I took it to an independent a/c shop and they did just as you are suggesting - installed a return line bypassing the rear.

 

[gjh]

AC lines

Pegasus:

About how much did that run you? Do you know if the used a factory return line that would be in the non rear AC models, or did they fabricate a return line.

Where abouts did they make the return?

Thanks.

p.s. does anyone have the parts diagram showing the AC unit with & without the rear AC?

 

[Kigiin]

I think it was around $400-500. I believe that fabricated a line. I don't know where they made the return, but if you are still interested I could ask them if they recall (it was several years ago so they may not).

 

[makino]

I had he same thing happen about a month ago..nothing but warm air. Took it to a local AC shop, and they found the rear line was bad. I almost had them cap it, but it came apart easily and the complete repair with a new rear line and freon re-charge came to around $450. Works fine now.

 

[geocruiser]

I had he same thing happen about a month ago..nothing but warm air. Took it to a local AC shop, and they found the rear line was bad. I almost had them cap it, but it came apart easily and the complete repair with a new rear line and freon re-charge came to around $450. Works fine now.

I had a leak in my smaller diameter ac line running to the rear of the truck (last line before it goes back up into the body). This sucker is LONG, with LOTS of bends. The old one came out in pieces, and I cannot find a way to get the new one into place! Been struggling for hours, with no luck.

I have the new line and new brackets, just need to get it into place.

I read on another forum that people have had to jack the body off of the frame to get the line in. Basically the last obstacle is the 2" rubber piece that is attached to the body above the cross member behind the rear axle.

I don't want to go this route, because I know I will break my body mount bolts if I try to remove them (RUST BELT).

My FSM has not mention of these lines either.

Any advice on how to get this new line in??

Thanks

 

[canman]

Can you bend the line to get it past the obstacle and then bend it back? FWIW I added a body lift to my 80 series (97) last summer and the body mount bolts can off very easily (rust belt also). We were done in 4 hrs.

 

[trackmur]

I used a small scissor jack to lift the body from the frame slightly and sneak my new rear pressure line into place. The emphasis should be on slight lifting. You can do it! I cut the ols one out.

When I picked up the replacement line for my LX, another was on the rack in the service bay having all of the lines replaced from front to back. I think Lexus dealers make a lot of money from this issue. On another thread someone mentioned GM and Toyota dealerships having rolls of aluminum tubing and compression connectors in this size to make these very repairs, but I was unable to find this when mine failed. My line failed because of corrosion pinholes where the foam insulation surrounded the aluminum at one of the fastening points where it clipped to the underside of the floor.

hope this helps

 

[geocruiser]

I ended up cutting the rubber bumpstop in half that sits between the body and frame crossmember, then the lines slid right in from the rear.

Sent from my Thunderbonner using IH8MUD

 

[Warrenpfo]

I had the same problem with my 2003 here in the UK. I had a replacment hose made by an AC company out of "rubber" and it went back into place in about half an hour.

Link here: 100 Series - 100 series Air Con pipe repair • Land Cruiser Club and Forum


Best part it only cost me $100

 

[geocruiser]

I had the same problem with my 2003 here in the UK. I had a replacment hose made by an AC company out of "rubber" and it went back into place in about half an hour.

Link here: 100 Series - 100 series Air Con pipe repair o Land Cruiser Club and Forum

Best part it only cost me $100

If I need to do it again, I will do it the way u did.

Anyone know of a good adhesive or epoxy that will bond the rubber bumpstop back together? Will super glue work?

Sent from my Thunderbonner using IH8MUD

 

[FOPLawyer]

I had this exact problem last summer. Went to a local shop called rad-air (originally a radiator a/c specialist, but now a general purpose shop) they capped the lines under the hood with application specific "swaged" plugs. It cost me less than $150 and that included the recharge. I postedc about it then (july-August 2011) and included pics.

Good Luck.